Neova

Anubis, That is correct. In that case it seems you and Dancouger would want the same parts which is no problem once I start parting the 2nd Valkyrie. Let me pull that piece out and I can have it sent out. RTShark, your parts will be parted soon since it will come from two Valkyries and Dancouger will get dibs on both L-L1 / L2 and R-L1/L2.

I was looking at kits the other day and came upon Acadamy's 1/48 Mig 29 UB Trainer for a ridiculous price. But I'm not sure of the model used in M:Zero. Anybody have some pointers? David?

Sweeeet Collection! I don't have a single Club M (yet) but you inspire us to continue the search. Congrats!

David, Great info. Its too bad those Fujima 1/48 kits suck. I thought I've found the easy road to an accurate 1/48 F-14D for Shin. The hunt continues for that elusive Hasegawa 1/48 F-14 D.

That looks really good. Almost true to the box art of those old model kits. I need one of those. Now lets see a DYRL purple version.

I thought all you guys use CA powder mix to re-sculpt parts since it is hard yet is easy to remold. Interesting as a gap filler. If you need to sand those gaps on a toy, do not use epoxy or get a dremel. That stuff is extremely hard to hand sand after it has cured.

Last picture showing the gun and booster pack details. Yes, there is a flaw there which I noticed while taking the pictures. Grr... gonna be a bitch to fix but checkout the details.

pack 3

pack 2

pack 1

Pictures for Myersjessee:

More details in this thread: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=7264 But yeh, buy all 5 in the set and build the monster. 1 of 5 pieces of the monster is included. Should not be 50 bux a set but hey, if thats what people are paying, then I'm selling!

I saw this thing built. The only other Gundam I actually like next to the huge PG EX-S. If they came out with a Variable SDF-1 as big and as detailed, I would buy one for the same price, resin kit or not. The thing is just plain awesome in sheer detail.

Ok from my research: Lemon Scented Easy Off Spray : Doesn't work... I soaked the ABS parts for up to 36 hours and nothing. I didn't attempt to use abrasives such as sand paper though. Castrol Super Clean: Sorta works. Soaked for 24 hours, use my fingers to "scratch" to edges and it starts to come off. Heatshield didn't work Engine degreaser from aerosol spray can that is clear - used to clean engines - works REALLY well.. Also MELTS and the softens the plastic like nobodies business. DO NOT USE or mask off area then soak and keep your eye on it. You can see the chemical reaction like boiling water in a clear glass container. I used a thick clean ashtray and saw the swirling. Woah... Note that I did not attempt any of this on die-cast metal parts yet so keep the research coming. Guppy said sugar soap (can't find any here in HK) with pinesol works. Personally, I would paint over the heatshield and get a new skull decal. The clear cockpit with paint underneath does not color match properly due to light distortion of the canopy. Looks cheesy on a well painted custom but good for a "factory" look. Post your findings here.

Thats it. I'm going to break my budget and get a few more of those M:0 Kits and a few SV-51 and VF-0Bs and the VF-0Ds and the battroid counter parts and ANY Macross re-issue from Hasegawa. I love Hasegawa's quality and the possibilities in the hands of talented customizers. Beautiful!

I looked at the painting and it appears to be ok to me. I didn't notice problems as bad as others may have but I will point out the white paint on colored plastic has a fuzziness around the edges. It may be due to the humidity levels here since it is getting hot and factories may or may not have proper air conditioning to save costs. BTW: Millia likes a big green one:

And I'm spent

Super Ostrich in disguise?

and another

Overhead

Profile shot

Out of the box

Box inside

Box art

Whole lotta Valkyries!