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slide

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Everything posted by slide

  1. slide

    Wave 1/72 vf-171

    slide replied to seti88's topic in Model kits

    +1 I've been wishing, but never thought it'd actually happen... THANK YOU WAVE!!!! now if it doesn't cost $50 per kit that'd be extra sweet, but either way, they're getting my money for multiples!!
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    good points, and I'm willing to repaint one of the older Yammie/Arcadia VF-4G's... I have 11 days to determine if this is, in fact, the way... but a 30" Razor Crest would make a very nice Christmas/Birthday gift to myself... edit: I didn't realize it included Lone Wolf and Cub Mando and The Child... *loud/sustained indecision noises*
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    Looks pretty close, and many of the class burned at least a little at Jutland. I'm not much of a ship guy, but the idea of a BB that transforms is awesome/quite terrifying!
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    Anybody been able to figure what ship he's supposed to be? if it was a warship that was sunk/destroyed by fire, then @Firefox nailed it with "Shipfire"!
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    I REEEEALLY want to, but it'd mean cancelling my VF-4 pre-order to afford it... VF-4 Razor Crest... I don't want to choose !!
  6. slide
    Accurate!
  7. slide
    Too bad, they look like very interesting kits of good designs.
  8. slide
    Flory's is great. it's non-reactive, so it should be fine. I use it to weather everything.
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    That'd earn my subscription to D+ for sure!
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    It's not only a lack of knowledge regarding Star Trek, it's a complete lack of thought. @Seto Kaiba nailed it: this is all JJ Abrams fallout
  11. slide

    Hi-Metal R

    slide replied to joppewo's topic in Toys

    Congrats @CharlesXavier !
  12. slide
    +1 ... someone not only approved of, but PAYED for that ...
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    Slightly nsfw meme:
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    Welcome! I'm not sure if you have access to this section*There is a minimum post count IIRC but there is a thread in the "Where to Buy Macross, Auctions & Dealers Specials" section: I've never ordered from N-Y, but judging by that thread, you're not the only one whose had issues.
  15. slide
    Yes, but being CA that should be relatively easy. Any left on the repair surface would (one presumes) inhibit a plastic-welding agent. CA is very brittle, so it should scrape off without even marring the plastic with some caution. In the Warhammer 40K world, it's advisable to attach arms, weapons etc. with CA: if you drop a mini the CA bond will break, not the arm/weapon, then just scrape-off the old CA (for fitment reasons) and re-do the joint, good as new. I've never heard of Devcon before, but after a quick google it sounds like some top-shelf stuff! I'll have to see if I can procure some... Out of curiosity @sqidd, what's the nature of the breakage? is it the muzzle-section of the barrels? I can see any repair to that point being (relatively) weak considering the tiny surface area(s) involved... especially if you attempted a CA repair. Or is it someplace else on the cannon? In general the more surface area the better for any repair job with solvents/glues.
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    New Edwards seems like a relatively safe and interesting place to work... Eden seems like Earth before the glassing... the Eden emigration fleet gets my vote!
  17. slide
    I can't not see this whenever I see the EX-S
  18. slide
    Gorgeous!! You continue to impress/inspire @Lolicon !!!
  19. slide

    repair for my VF-19

    slide replied to jemC's topic in Toys

    I would use 1, maybe 2 pins if you have the physical space at a right angle to the part itself. normally I would recommend 90o to the break, but that'd make this even more complex/difficult something like this: *this is dependent on the internal structure of the joint, of which I'm completely unaware, but if it's just a plastic-only part of the joint, I would use epoxy and 2 pins [because I'm type-A, and using two will give you extra stability to the repair] in the yellow locations above. this will keep the pins away from any actual moving portion or negative spaces required for mobility. if you do not have a vice and some kind of drill-press, then doing it this way will be extremely difficult to get correct and not slip and mar/break the joint up even worse Order of operations in my head: A LIGHT scuffing with some sandpaper to the break itself will help give the epoxy something [texture] to bite onto and will hold better. Epoxy the broken joint-flange into place, making sure it's as square and tight as possible. let the epoxy dry. *note* you can stop at this point and test-out the joint's function/strength if you like. maybe you won't even need to pin it, but I suspect you will. I would then put the joint in a vice, and mark-out then drill the two pin-holes. I don't know if going all the way through is necessary, but I'd sink the pins at least half-way into the joint. The more 'meat' of the broken flange you can use, the better IMO Trim the pins so they are just a little bit countersunk into their holes [ever so slightly recessed] then drench the pins in epoxy, place them into the joint, and wipe off the excess. This should have the benefit of sealing the pins in all in one fell swoop. now you can fill/sand/paint if you feel you need to. Once you've reached step 2, feel free to modify the angle of your pins if you like, perhaps perpendicular to the break itself would be best from a mechanical strength standpoint... but I'm not an engineer, I just play one in my hobbyroom! WARNING: doing it my way will further damage the part before you make it better!! and stands a reasonable chance of outright failure! I'm fully aware that doing it my way is NOT going to leave it pretty without additional work [filling, sanding, painting] and you need to know that too, before you start But as a model-builder, that's how my brain immediately tackled the problem. Shy of machining yourself a new piece, this is the most sturdy/long-lasting repair I can think to make. My method may prove to be overkill, but overkill is under-rated and if you play with her at all, I would not trust an epoxy-only bond for any appreciable force on a repair surface-area of that size. Hope this either helps, or inspires a better/simpler solution. I like to overthink things like this so TIFWIW Good luck!
  20. slide
    *race ensues, pilot flips his ride "F*** it, I didn't sign for it!!" *EDIT* Now that I've actually watched that video. I'm actually kind of impressed those LED strips stayed mounted for the duration of their flight...
  21. slide

    repair for my VF-19

    slide replied to jemC's topic in Toys

    From a modeler's perspective: I would drill 2 holes and pin each broken piece in place with some brass rod addition to even the epoxy. I suggest you DEFINITELY pin it if you're going to try CA of any kind. Zap-a-gap should work as well as any other CA [crazy glue]. Pinning it may be time/trouble spent, but those breaks look like they could do with the extra re-enforcement, and I would expect a CA repair-job to crack under any appreciable stress. Good luck with your fix!
  22. slide
    FWIW: Hasegawa's Callouts say Mr. Color #80 Cobalt Blue 60% + Mr. Color #66 Bright Green 40%... which sounds like it would come out more of a teal like his helmet than the green of his fighter... As far as ready-to-use rattle-cans, or even just "yay, I don't have to mix for this!" pots of paint, I haven't been able to find any that are a straight-up match to my eye.
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  24. slide
    Reynolds has sort of become Canada's funnier/younger Nicholas Cage. [though he does seem more discriminating in his project selection] I'm down for a watch, but as many have said, my local theaters are all closed, so it'll show up on Netflix or someplace eventually.
  25. slide
    Isn't there a Protoculture [post conversion to a vajra-like form, likely not it's original body] at the end of Macross Zero? It takes off with Sara to somewhere... Or was it some kind of autonomous drone?
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