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GU-11

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  1. GU-11
    Same here. His bot mode will only fit in my Detolf if I remove one of the glass panels, and his alt mode actually need a whole desktop.
  2. GU-11
    Came back from the hobby store last weekend, and brought back the guy with the analgesic addiction (of course it's Bane; who else? ) Less than pleased with his lacking elbow articulation; couldn't recreate his trademark pose, with his hands holding the straps of his vest or overcoat. But overall, pretty good, although I would have preferred a bulkier physique. But all that matters is he's Bane, and he looks awesome battling Batman in my Detolf shelf. Strange that the cammo Tumbler hasn't been released at your end yet. My hobby store just brought in a shipment of them last week or so. Of course, the shop is an official distributor for HT, so they probably get the first batches for new releases.
  3. GU-11

    Japan bound toys

    GU-11 replied to Cdisdope's topic in Toys

    I think Gundam kits are still manufactured in Japan. If I recall correctly, I checked the sprues on my Exia once, and it said "Made in Japan."
  4. GU-11
    Just finished book five.
  5. GU-11
    For me, Macross Plus was my "re-awakening" to the Macross universe, and remains my all-time favorite. My only childhood memories of these "triple-forming jets" and purple giants was from Robotech. It was only after watching MacPlus in my college years that I realized Robotech was derived from a Japanese anime with a much larger franchise and continuity. So yeah, I'd recommend MacPlus Valks as a starting point, if you can still find any out there. There are only three to collect, and all three are IMO some of the most unique designs in the Macross universe. I'm probably ont the first one to point this out, but her VA's voice doesn't seem to fit her looks. Too mature for a pint-sized little girl.
  6. GU-11
    There's this tip I learned from an airbrushing article. By adding a very small amount of blue to the white paint (as in at least 1:20 blue to white ratio), the yellowing of the white is countered by the tinge of blue. Supposedly, this virtually prevents any yellowing of the paint. Never tried this myself, but the theory is sound.
  7. GU-11
    Animated Arcee was actually pretty good, but you have no idea how fast the toy sold out, both in hobby stores, TRU AND online. I even asked a relative who was going to Hong Kong to see if she could nab one for me at the local shops, but no such luck.
  8. GU-11
    I've heard that heat is also a contributing factor to yellowing. I guess painting them up is the only true cure. I just wish Kawamori would stop giving his Valks white paint schemes.
  9. GU-11
    My only worry is that the thinner and alcohol in the paint might react to the oil. If that's not a problem, then olive oil will be perfect! Since I clean my airbrush very often (the instructions say you can use back-flushing to clean the AB for 2-3 spraying sessions, before needing to disassemble and clean it), reapplying the oil frequently is no problem.
  10. GU-11
    That's gorgeous, kyeye! That blood on the sword looks disturbingly realistic. Speaking of gorgeous, who's the blurred-up nude chick in the middle picture?
  11. GU-11
    @MacrossJunkie: Olive oil? If it does work, that'll be perfect, as it's easily available. @Noyhauser: I heard that Tamiya airbrushes are manufactured by Iwata, so hopefully the store will sell lubricant from this brand a well.
  12. GU-11
    Thanks so much for all the great advice! Speaking of AB lubricant, is Vaseline good for lubricating needles? Tamiya doesn't sell airbrush lubricants and the only place I can find a ready supply of modeling supplies is at Tamiya's official store.
  13. GU-11
    What's a divergence meter? Does it function as a clock or something?
  14. GU-11
    Actually, Takara's name for Metroplex is...wait for it...Metroflex! I kid you not. Just scroll down this page and read the name for the Encore toy. Just stumbled on this recently.
  15. GU-11
    Just got my mp-16 Frenzy and Buzzsaw from the store. Buzzsaw had a problematic head camera, but it's not a big problem, as I doubt I'll be using it. A fleck of chrome was chipped from Frenzy's crotch, but I can't be bothered to go the it exchanged. A bit of silver paint from a fine brush and gentle dabbing with a q-tip should mask the missing chrome. And now the whole family's complete! Time to find a nice spot on my desktop for Soundwave and his little pets!
  16. GU-11
    @MacrossJunkie: Thanks for the heads-up! Yeah, I've heard heard a lot of debates on ammonia. Some say that ammonia-base cleaners are suitable only for back-flushing, and you should never soak AB parts in it. Seeing as it's hard for me to know for sure which brand of window cleaner has ammonia in it anyway, I'll methylated spirits instead. And I'll seriously have to think about getting a cleaning pot for my AB. Good to know that rinsing with water is actually good for the AB. I usually backflush the AB with tap water before disassembling and cleaning. Used to backflush with Tamiya AB cleaner, but it gets pretty expensive after a while. I now dab some AB cleaner onto a paper towel or q-tip to clean the needle and central block--lasts much longer that way. Yeah, I guess one never stops learning when it comes to airbrushing.
  17. GU-11
    Yup, and a very anticipated one as well, AFAIC. I just hope my local hobby store brings this in. Sucks that I don't have a decent G1 Arcee figure in my neo-G1 collection yet. The PE bike fembots woud have been nice, but ye ole hobby store didn't/couldn't/won't bring them in.
  18. GU-11
    Thanks for the replies, guys! The problem with finding ammonia-based window cleaners is that they aren't always listed on the label. I looked through a few brands on the shelves, but mostly they just say surfactants and solvent. Would methylated spirits do the trick as an AB cleaner? I'm not sure what it is, but someone reccommended using this as a thinner for thinning acrylics.
  19. GU-11
    I'm glad they chose to delay the release and fix the problem. I pre-ordered it, and it's to be my first ever 3P TF toy.
  20. GU-11
    Spent around 450-500 USD on a Hot Toys TDK Tumbler. No regrets.
  21. GU-11
    Thanks for the pointers and the pep talk, Exo. Seriously, I appreciate it. Airbrushing is a very new thing for me (been using rattle cans up until recently), and the way parts keep getting dinged despite my best efforts at being careful...I felt like an absolute klutz. But from what you've told me, I guess AB'ing is something of a school of hard knocks. Let me get this straight; does a better quality AB (read: expensive) mean better durability? If that's the case, I might have to upgrade my AB. Thing is, the compressor I'm using can only be used with selected Tamiya AB's with removable air valves. It's either the HG or the ultra-expensive trigger type. I'm fine with the HG one, since it's far more affordable, but I've gotten so used to trigger type AB's that I'm not sure if I want to start using a traditional pen type one. Honestly, are pen-type AB's harder to use than the trigger ones? As for the missing part, it's a double o-ring that was supposed to seal up the needle. I ordered some replacement parts from the local Tamiya store and there are no more bubbles in the paint cup anymore. This time around, it's the nozzle aka end tip that's been dinged. I looked at it through a magnifying lens, and one side is slighly flattened; must had accidentally caved it in when cleaning it the last time. The funny thing is, when it started acting up the previous time, I replaced the old needle with a new one, and the paint stopped leaking. This time when I did the same, it didn't fix the problem. Strange. One more thing: can I substitute Windex with Kao Magiclean? Windex isn't sold here. I've heard that window cleaners are good for removing acrylic paint, but when I tried using some Magiclean to remove some paint from a part, it did nothing. It took a Gundam marker "eraser" (basically a marker containing thinner) to remove it.
  22. GU-11
    Many thanks, Kykeye! I guess I'm still at beginner level. My AB'ing techinque is still pretty rough, as evidenced by my damaged nozzle. I didn't think I could damage an AB just by doing quick pulls on the trigger. FYI, I'm using a gun-type AB, which comes with the Tamiya Spraywork Basic Compressor. Is this AB good enough, considering my rudimentary skills? A few more questions: I always do a full cleaning after every spray session. Does this actually do more harm to the AB than good? I was just thinking that all that disassembling might add to the wear and tear on the airbrush. Every time I reinsert the needle, there's a risk I might push it too far into the nozzle. I'm ultra careful whenever I do so, but I hate running that risk every time I clean my AB. Can I do a "flush through" clean using water (pressing your finger to the nozzle and squeezing the trigger to back flush the AB)? I usually use Tamiya's AB cleaner, but it's getting ridiculously expensive. Is methylated spirits a good substitute? I tried looking for isopropyl alcohol in pharmacies, but they only sell saline for disinfecting wounds (well, Malaysia IS a Muslim country). And the most important question: What's the "proper" way to pull back the AB trigger? I have a habit of doing quick passes while spraying, although I don't simply let got of the trigger and let it spring back. Should I do slower passes and release the trigger slower? Many modelers I've seen on youtube seem to do slower passes and I'm used to. But if it helps keep my AB healthy, I may have to change the way use my AB.
  23. GU-11
    Thanks for the info, Kyekye! Come to think of it, I do remember doing very short pulls on the trigger while painting when the leaking suddenly started, and that might have damaged the nozzle aka end tip. These airbrushes are WAY more fragile than I thought they'd be. I was afraid I'd have to replace some AB parts. First the rubber o-ring, and now the nozzle. This is getting expensive. Any advice on how I can prevent from accidentally damaging my AB again?
  24. GU-11
    I was AB'ing some test spoons today, and noticed that the nozzle leaks paint (lets out a thin stream of paint even when I don't suqeeze the trigger) when I thin the paints up too much. This ONLY happens when the paints are really thin. Paints thinned in 1:1 ratio aka "skim milk consistency" doesn't do that. Should this be happening? According to online articles, this supposedly happens when either the nozzle or needle is clogged with dried paint, but I always take my AB apart for a thorough cleaning after every session. I even check for dried paint particles in the nozzle, central block and needle through a magifying glass to make sure. The only possibility is that the needle wasn't pushed in enough, but I'm hesitant to try pushing it too far in for fear of damaging the nozzle. If it's normal for AB's to leak when the paints are too thin, then that's fine. Then again, I hear that you can even spray inks out of an AB, so that shouldn't be the case, should it? Any advice is much appreciated.
  25. GU-11
    That's a beautiful diorama. What did you use for the floor? Looks nice.
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