Jump to content

GU-11

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3014

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GU-11

  1. GU-11
    Dude, what is that, and where the hell can I buy one?!
  2. GU-11
    I really like the quick pacing of this season. No meandering, no drawn out conflicts--just decisive resolutions. That Gareth sure is a talker, though.
  3. GU-11
    Good question, and a scary one, too. If it's anything above 230 USD and/or not easily available, I'm not buying it. My old Yammie YF-19 still holds up pretty well to my eyes, and I don't really "need" another YF/VF-19 on my shelf like I need a VT-1.
  4. GU-11
    The fact that the boosters need their own support stands are kind of worrying, but as long as it's within the 200-230 USD price range, I'm definitely buying one. ...if I can get my hands on one, and at a reasonable price. Got the shock of my life when I discovered my usual hobby store was selling the YF-29 at close to 300 USD.
  5. GU-11
    I have a feeling they'll get the guy who directed that recent TMNT flick to stand in for Bay. Been saving this pic for just such an occasion:
  6. GU-11
    I suggest decanting the clear spray into a small jar, let it off-gas, and then spraying it through an airbrush. Mist coating clear varnish onto the surface will at least minimize the risks of the lacquer eating into the acrylic paint. In theory, anyway. _________________________________________________________ BTW, I just bought a can of QP 203 silicone spray to lubricate my AB's trigger mechanism and Teflon seal. On paper, it sounds perfect for the job: » Leaves a dry lubricating film » Helps prevent rubber cracking & drying » Displaces moisture » Excellent mould release lubricant » Point and spray convenience » Lubricates; Waterproofs » Rustproofs Would this work?
  7. GU-11
  8. GU-11
    Such intricate details on a model that small...wow.
  9. GU-11
    That's a good point. Maybe I should rethink my idea after all, since this is lacquer thinner we're talking about. I don't really see a part of the lid where a hole wouldn't compromise its ability to seal in the thinner mist. I think I'll test out the side of the lid with a drop of lacquer thinner like you advised, and see how things go. Hopefully, it'll hold up; otherwise, I'll have to pony up the cash for a proper cleaning pot. I should probably stick to acrylics for the time being, in this case. Or, do some number crunching again and see if I can squeeze in that cleaning pot.
  10. GU-11
    That sounds like a good idea! Maybe I'll use a glass bowl or something, fill it with a rag, and then place it in front of my spray booth. The rag catches the thinner, while the spray booth sucks in the fumes. I'll just let the tub sit there for 10 minutes or so before taking it outside for cleaning. Many thanks, SchizophrenicMC!
  11. GU-11
    Metallic plastic, clear plastic, and chrome--3 of the most fragile and degradation-prone materials in one toy. Well, at least you won't really miss them if they start falling apart.
  12. GU-11
    Silicone grease it is, then. One more question for the road. Kind of a stupid one, though. I built my own cleaning pot from a coffee bottle a while ago, and it works quite well when I flush methylated spirits from my AB into it. The problem is, every time I clean out the bottle, I notice how wet the plastic lid is from the mist. Now that's fine since methylated spirits won't eat plastic, but I'm worried that if I flush lacquer thinner into the jar, it'll eat into the lid. While the bottle itself is glass, the lid is made from a sort of malleable plastic. Or, is the mist too fine to damage the plastic? But just in case, is there anything I could do to keep the mist from getting to the lid, like maybe fill the bottle with kitchen towels or newspaper? I know it's just a recycled coffee bottle and I should just get a proper one online, but I'd rather not spend any more money than I have to this close to Christmas. I've already pre-ordered more things than I should have, and there's also tons of other stuff to spend on this time of year.
  13. GU-11
    I thought I already said I was from Malaysia. Gosh, even after all the hoohah with the missing planes, people still don't remember us... Too soon? Seriously though, we do have Ace Hardware and Home Depot outlets here. Ace in particular sells a good variety of car products, so there's a good change I might find something similar there. So, it's usable as long as it's silicone grease, right?
  14. GU-11
    Thanks for the pointers, guys! I'll look around for dielectric grease at the local hardware stores. BTW, I just discovered that Tamiya's airbrush cleaner actually lubricates the needle and Teflon seal. Since I clean my needle with it anyway, I guess I'll only need to lubricate the trigger mechanism, since the Teflon seal is already being lubed by the airbrush cleaner.
  15. GU-11
    The most popular suggestions seem to be Vaseline (very thin coat) and sewing machine oil, but there are an equal amount of people who warn against using those. Something about reaction to brass and gumming up. On the other hand, Tamiya sells something called high-viscosity grease for trigger mechanisms, which comes as a set with their cleaning kit. Is that any good? On a related note, is it pointless to lube the packing needle seal (aka the Teflon seal that keeps paint inside the paint chamber)? A few swear by it, and suggest using either Needle Juice (whatever that is) or Superlube for the job, but Don Wheeler of Don's Airbrush Tips claims it's pointless to lubricate Teflon.
  16. GU-11
    Thanks, I'll give that a try! BTW, does anyone know how to lubricate an airbrush's trigger mechanism, specifically an Iwata HP-CS and Tamiya HG III? I keep hearing about triggers sticking due to drying rubber gaskets, and wonder if lubricating the trigger and/or gasket might prevent this from happening.
  17. GU-11
    That was him? Seriously, I can't believe I didn't know that until now. Can't quite be sure since I live in Malaysia, but I watched the 1-hour movie on Disney XD in the local cable TV network. They got pwned by feral teddy bears in ROTJ, so it's not really that much better in the movies.
  18. GU-11
    Thanks again! There's nothing quite like the refreshing scent of peppermint on a fictional kickass mech of mass destruction.
  19. GU-11
    Thanks, Mickyg! Do I have to dilute it and apply it with a wet cloth, or just rub it on the surface right out of the tube? I've been getting conflicting info on that in the articles I've read.
  20. GU-11
    I just read that you can use generic toothpaste as a mild polishing compound to smooth out orange peel on botched paint jobs or even remove scratches and seam lines on clear plastic canopies. Is this true? Considering the average price of Tamiya's polishing and rubbing compounds, toothpaste seems to be a very cost-effective and easily available alternative.
  21. GU-11
    I'll third that, as far as Tamiya's paints are concerned. Thinned with a surfactant (dish detergent, window cleaner etc.), the tendency for the new paint to dissolve and peel up the underlying coat is gone when you paint with a brush, and kind of works with matte paint. But given how you have to wait whole days between coats, and the results might not always turn out nicely, it's best to just use and airbrush. Even a cheap one like Tamiya's SW basic AB makes a whole lot of difference. Never did manage to get my hands on Gunze paints, but I've heard great things about them. @CoreyD: Ambient temperature seems to play a large part in it. I found this thread to be quite helpful.
  22. GU-11
    Now that's how to start a new season!
  23. GU-11
    "Does it hurt? Does it hurt?"
  24. GU-11
    It's a shame what happened with the panel wash. The paint job is gorgeous.
  25. GU-11
    Yeah, this was the deal-breaker for me. I was really excited when GSC announced the Mk. VIII, but when I learned about the shop-exclusive BS, I refused to buy it.
×
×
  • Create New...