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GU-11

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  1. GU-11
    Thanks! I just tried that out on a test spoon, and it does level out any orange peel!
  2. GU-11
    Would air regulators be usable with compressors of different brands? For instance, would a regulator from Anest Iwata be usable on a Sparmax compressor? I was just thinking that since the connection joints between the compressors and regulators are all universal sizes (1/4"), and regulators simply control how much air flows from the source into the hose, it shouldn't matter what brand it's from. This recent thing with the compressor just got me thinking is all. Oh, and one more thing! When I turned on my comrpessor this morning, I caught a slight hiss for LITERALLY a split second around the area of the regulator--I repeated turning my compressor on and off (draining the tank and turning the power off, and turning it back on), and it only happens during startup. I wrapped some Teflon tape around the threads of the joint that connects the regulator to the airbrush's air hose, which solved the hissing, but the needle still drops by 7 psi. Could this be a faulty hose, after all?
  3. GU-11
    Thanks, I'll try it out. It'll definitely save a lot of trouble, without having to decant paint a day in advance. Thanks for the tips, Noyhauser! The other problem I have is that the finish as smooth as I'd like it to be. I guess I have a habit of not going heavy or close enough, but I almost always end up buffing with toothpaste to get rid of any minor orange peel. I
  4. GU-11
    Thanks for replying, Micky! I feel a lot better knowing it's not just my compressor. I haven't changed the hose or anything on my compressor. I do keep it coiled while airbrushing, though--not sure if that makes a difference. As for how whether it's affecting how my airbrush works, not at all. Other than the 7 psi drop when pressing the trigger, the pressure's been consistent. The drop does swings between 5-7 psi depending on whether the cormpressor's topping off the tank, but other than that, I don't notice anything wrong. UPDATE: I just remembered something. I had tried to use my Tamiya Spraywork Basic Airbrush on the compressor. I'd fitted it with a bleed valve, but the valve kept leaking air even with the dial turned all the way down. I shut off the compressor while it was still filling the tank, and removed the basic AB and bleed valve, before switching to my HP-CS. I'm pretty sure that turning it off like that can't have done any damage to my compressor, but I just thought I should mention it just in case.
  5. GU-11
    Just a quick question: Is it normal for my compressor's psi to drop 5-7 psi when I press down on the airbrush's trigger? I set the psi to 25, and it would fall to 20 when I start airbrushing. I know that a small drop in psi is normal when you've got the trigger pressed down, but most people was that the normally accepted drop is 3 psi. There was one guy who said that a 7psi drop is normal for 0.3mm airbrushes. It's been almost six months since I last did any airbrushing, but I seem to recall that the pressure only dropped by 3 psi until recently. Can't be certain, though. My compressor's a relatively new Sparmax TC-610 that I've only used less than a dozen times since I bought it, and I'm using an Iwata HP-CS. Thanks for any advice!
  6. GU-11
    Thanks for the explanation, guys! I also seem to recall in the back of my mind, that it's only hard to airbrush glossy paints when they're acrylic. Lacquers and enamels are apparently "better-behaved". BTW, how long do you usually let the decanted paint off-gas before using it? I tend to play it safe and let it sit outside overnight, but I've heard of people using the paint after just an hour. Also, how long can you keep the decanted paint before it "spoils"? I usually just decant only as much as I need for one session, but it would be more convenient to decant more for future use.
  7. GU-11
    Congrats on your purchase! Glad to see someone other than myself who appreciates the oldschool Yammie 1/60 YF-19. Very true, especially considering the price of these items. It's important to get what you personally like, instead of what everyone thinks you should like.
  8. GU-11
    He's a man of good tastes, I see. Just out of curiosity, why bother with an airbrush? Isn't it actually harder to airbrush bright glossy colors than to just use a rattle can? Maybe it's just my inexperience, but I still need to buff any gloss finishes with toothpaste and paint on a coat of FFP to give it that "showroom shine." And at that rate, I might as well save myself the hassle of cleaning up and go with a rattle can. Airbrushing does save a lot of paint, though. The only time I'd decant is if the paint is hard to get or expensive, like Tamiya TS sprays.
  9. GU-11
    Either way, it's definitely going to look good on a YF-19-Kurisama did a really good job designing that, and you did it justice with a crisp paint job. I'm personally too much of a cheapskate to get myself a set from Shapeways, but I already halfway through modeling my own take on it. Might take another month or two before I finalize it and print it out on my UP Plus 2. A coat of FFP might help to protect it, maybe? Ah, thanks for clarifying. I suspected it was an AC vent of some sort, but the words "S12 community" threw me off. Coincidentally, that was one of my favorite cars as a kid, followed by the Prelude. But that's another story for another thread.
  10. GU-11
    Nice! I wouldn't worry about the paint scratching off as long as you pull out the landing gear out by holding the tire. Shouldn't be much risk of abrasion. That's a gorgeous paint job, Derex! Is that for the Arcadia or the Yamato version? Pardon my ignorance, but what's the S12 community?
  11. GU-11
    Awesome stuff, Kurisama! Wish I could afford Maya so I can GoZ between it and ZBrush for a more convenient workflow. Good news is, ZB 4R7 has some pretty nifty hard surface low poly brushes, which is practically a godsend for me. Still, I'm starting to get the hang of importing and exporting between Sketchup (almost always had to do some "pre-topo'ing" before exporting) and ZBrush.
  12. GU-11
    Very interesting mod, Chrono! I didn't bother getting the Arcadia or the Bandai -19's--I'm probably one of the few (if not the only one) who actually prefers the battroid and GERWALK modes of the Yammie 1/60 YF-19. That, and the fact that the newer ones won't scale in with the YF-21. Anyways, the mod looks like something I might be able to try out. Thanks for posting it!
  13. GU-11
    Good point. I probably should leave well enough alone. Besides, I doubt I'll ever leave him in alt mode, considering how out of scale it is, relative to the other MP alts.
  14. GU-11
    Lesson learned: don't touch a damn thing until you do some research online and know what the heck you're doing. Hah, sounds like the perfect setup for a "what she said" joke! I transformed BB a couple of times and (knocks on wood) he seems fine, thankfully. There is this small gap in the left car hood, but I think that's just poor QC, like the switched-around forearms. I wonder if I can wrap a cloth around it and lightly hammer it tight with a rubber mallet.
  15. GU-11
    I just checked the box art, and it does only have one side mirror. I saw two side mirrors on the runner, and thought it must be one for each side. Sh!t, I hope I didn't do any damage forcing the pin in.
  16. GU-11
    Just picked up my MP BB last night. The forearms were switched around (left forearm on the right arm, right forearm on the left), but it was no big deal--it was secured by screws, so it was a simple matter of switching them back. The holes where the side mirrors are supposed to fit into were a little problematic, though. Apparently, each hole also houses metal pins that act as a hinge to a panel on the hood. When properly installed, the pins are inserted deep into the hinge, leaving a 3mm space where the side mirrors are supposed to peg into. On mine, the one on the right didn't leave any space at all for the peg. I had to push the pin further in using thumb tacks and tiny screwdrivers. That pasty white-painted face looks much better in person, though. Overall, it's a nice representation of G1 Bumblebee.
  17. GU-11
    Thanks for the heads-up! There's a hand grip filter for sale at HLJ--not exactly bank-breaking, but it's not cheap either. Might get one later, although honestly, I haven't had any problems with moisture so far (knocks on wood). If it were cheaper, I'd get one just to be safe. From you description, I think my compressor also has something similar to Air on Demand, although it's not specifically given a name. According to the brochure, "when the air tank pressure falls below 40psi, the compressor runs to recharge the tank back to 60psi & then switches off - the compressor running to the demand of the air tank, rather than switching on/off every time the airbrush trigger is pressed."
  18. GU-11
    Thanks, Nekko! I guess a second moisture trap isn't necessary, then. BTW, is it okay if I keep the hose coiled up when airbrushing? I tend to keep it most of it coild and inside a bucket. Can't stand having the hose all over the floor. I'm always worried about my dog tripping over it.
  19. GU-11
    Seem to be watching a lot of Appleseed anime lately. Alpha sort of whetted my appetite for more post-apocalyptic gunfights, so I continued on with the 2004 CGI anime. Nice story, but the cel-shaded CG took a little getting used to. I might watch Ex Machina later.
  20. GU-11
    That's some pretty good specs on that compressor. What's "air-on-demand", though? Speaking of compressors, I'm unsure if I should buy a second moisture trap for the airbrush. While the compressor has its own moisture trap, there's still the hose itself. That said, I always paint with the AC unit on, which lowers the humidity to somewhere between 50-60%. Yeah, I haven't cleaned my kitchen hood for ages, and (knocks on wood) it still runs. The last time cleaned it, there was so much grease in the that I had to soak the fans overnight in detergent. Cool idea, using an airbox as a mounting frame.
  21. GU-11
    I'm with you on that. Spinosaurus was a weak replacement for T-Rex--it was depicted in the movie as such a "bland" dinosaur. BTW, I loved the sounds T-Rex and the raptors made in the original movie. While we'll never know what T-Rex really sounds like, its vocalizations in the JP movies are as iconic as the animal itself. On a related note, I remember hating Dino Crisis 2 when they had a similar scene mid-game, having something called a "Gigantosaurus" kill off T-Rex. As much as I hated old Rex for giving me hell throughout the game, I was like, "FUUUUUUUUU!!!!!!" when Giganto-whatever snapped Rex's neck.
  22. GU-11
    My compressor's a smaller Sparmax TC-610 that stops at 40 psi by default (it can go up to 90), but I rarely go above 15 psi (actually, I've been only using 7-10 psi so far) so the air in the tank doesn't need much refilling. Since I always paint in small batches, paint sessions usually don't take longer than 15-20 minutes. As for Tamiya, I guess that confirms it. Their acrylics can only be thinned with their own brand of lacquer thinner. I wonder if you can thin their acrylics with Mr. Thinner. I remember someone blogging about experimenting with thinners from different hobby brands, but don't remember the results. I've got an Eclipse HP-CS myself, but I'm a little "intimidated" by it. It's not a cheap piece of equipment, and I find myself gravitating back to my old Spray Work basic trigger-type airbrush for base coats and other "grunt work". I'll have to give it a try one of these days--I mean, what's the point of buying something if you're not going to use it? Just gotta be super careful when cleaning it up. IMO, the only use of a filter in the case of DIY booths is to catch paint pigments, so they don't end up clogging the fan's gears and whatnot. In any case, I'm not even sure if generic filters are capable of catching organic vapors. Even with my current hobby spray booth, I still vent the exhaust outdoors just in case. I started out using a soldering-smoke absorber as a spray booth before getting a proper one. It works as a spray booth as long as you stick to airbrushing, and vent the exhaust outside--I swapped the active carbon filter with a sheet of kitchen hood filter cut to size to catch the overspray. Rattle cans will choke it out in no time, though.
  23. GU-11
    He dies in the book? It's been over 20 years since I last read the first book, and I'm only at page 40 right now. The only thing I remember is the Costa Rican air force razing the island with missiles. I can't speak for anyone else, but I found the second movie too :"kiddy" for some reason. Technically, it isn't any more or less kiddy than the first movie, but somehow it just feels that way. It's probably the part where T-Rex runs wild in LA. I also didn't like way they turned Eddie into some Green Peace terrorist in the movie; he's far more level-headed in the book. BTW, who's this "main character" you're talking about? I know the mercs weren't supposed to be the stars of the show, and the kid's new dad was just a throwaway character. Did you mean T-Rex? You must be talking about my dog, All he has to do is sit in front of me with his food bowl between his jaws, and I'll immediately get up from the couch to fill said bowl with pet food.
  24. GU-11
    Well, you can always count on the modeling community (not the cat-walking, "I'm Too Sexy" kind, mind you) for advice and help. I've posted my fair share of questions at the Workshop forum.
  25. GU-11
    Yeah, I have to agree that JP III just didn't have the same "magic" as the original film. The number of dinosaurs sort of makes up for it, though. I like that the raptors got the most focus, though. Crichton's novels always paints them in visceral, vivid detail as creatures that deserve your respect and fear more than even T-Rex. Incidentally, I started reading Jurassic Park and The Lost World again after over a decade, and it's just as good after so long. In some ways, I like the books more than the movies (which is almost always the case with live-action adaptations, I guess).
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