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TMBounty_Hunter

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Everything posted by TMBounty_Hunter

  1. TMBounty_Hunter
    So this was supposed to be a quick painting practice kit but still took almost 3 months. The cockpit got a quick and dirty rebuild since the kit has only 2 crappy seats but the movie clearly has 3. Playing the part of the pilot is Chuck Keith out of the MG Zaku II F2 Feddie colors, which is apparently one of the few open faced helmet pilot figures in the MG line. Playing the part of Ayanami Rei is Heero Yui out of the MG WZC with the hair slightly trimmed. Things learned: -I still get occasionally paint shipping down to bare plastic and I don't know why, even when just peeling off Tamiya masking tape, but I've learned not to care. -Post-shading using a lighter color from the inside of the panel out is interesting and gets pretty good results. -Post-shading using a darker color along the panel lines is a bit harder to get right. -Masking is starting to get not that annoying. -I need more water slide decal practice -Painting tiny pilot figures is HAAAAARD So that makes it 2 models finished this year and a total of 13 finished in the 10 years since I've started painting them.
  2. TMBounty_Hunter
    That's so beautiful!
  3. TMBounty_Hunter
    http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10289602z6/70/6 Trees A, B and R are from the valk kits Trees F and G are from the battroid kit GA, GB and GC are the three big new trees full of gerwalk parts
  4. TMBounty_Hunter
    Looking at the new vs old parts, it doesn't seem like it's compatible out of the box with the VF-1D parts (the lower section of the body for the Gerwalk is new), but it doesn't look like it would be too difficult to modify it to fit. So who'll be the first to attempt that?
  5. TMBounty_Hunter
    That's a very awesome looking magical flying trapezoid. I hope I can eventually work my way towards such clean builds. For not I just stick to dirty paint jobs to hide all the mistakes. I tried doing the inverse of the previous technique. Took some Smoke Grey thinned out with clear and sprayed on the edges of the panel lines. This came out a bit messier than spraying a lighter shade in the middle, but hey that's what the practice kit is for
  6. TMBounty_Hunter
    I shop where ever is cheapest for what I want. Since paint can't be shipped by individuals from Japan anymore that's mostly what I buy locally. Hobby King up in Markham has the full Mr. Color rack. AnimeXtreme downtown has half a rack but it's a dollar cheaper per bottle of paint and Mr. Thinner is $3 cheaper. Probably another dozen places or so around with Tamiya paint. At this point kits all get bought online, but there is a new place that opened a few months ago out in Mississauga called ukato.ca and they're prices for Bandai kits are easily the best in the Greater Toronto Area, especially with the Christmas discount they have going now. If I need an emergency kit (unlikely given the tons I already have...) that's probably where I'll go. EDIT: I occasionally forget to maintain this: http://www.hobbyfanatics.com/index.php?/topic/1859-greater-toronto-area-ontario-canada/
  7. TMBounty_Hunter
    Yep, it's the Kotobukiya plastic kit: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10171720
  8. TMBounty_Hunter
    Hrm, seems my pre-order is also delayed. I'm even further down the queue since I placed the order on Dec 7th. Oh well.
  9. TMBounty_Hunter
    After a few really foggy and wet days finally decided to try electric indigo's suggestion. Too a bit to get it right, the first attempt ended up looking like I just sprayed the lighter color solid Eventually I seemed to get the hang of it on the main body: After the I decided to lighten the color yet again and have another pass now that things were starting to work: I'm surprised that I managed not to completely mangle the project. This has turned into a very fun practice build So after 2 lighter shades on the darkest grey how does it look?
  10. TMBounty_Hunter
    Blargh. Well guess I'll just go ahead and ship all the stuff in my Private Warehouse that's approaching the deadline of the 20th
  11. TMBounty_Hunter
    So it's the 18th in Japan, is the Gerwalk hitting the street yet? Anyone getting payment requests/shipping notices yet? Or is the date on Hasegawa's site more of an approximation than an exact date?
  12. TMBounty_Hunter
    electric indigo, you mean something like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUFo-Pg3JAc#t=4m39s That might actually work out since I have a lot of that dark grey mix left over
  13. TMBounty_Hunter
    Trying to kick through a few kits as practice before attacking the Hasegawa valks. So the color for this ended up being a lot stronger than I thought. The two lighter grays were supposed to be mostly white with some Neutral Grey, Dark Yellow and Dark Earth but my eyeballing seems to have been off and they came out somewhere between creamy and tan. What I thought I'd do was get the darkest grey also a lot darker and then I'll go over the whole thing with a very thinned out and light coat of white to lighten things up a bit. Now I'm thinking I better ask first if this plan is feasible before potentially ruining a paint job. Alternatively it seems there's such a thing as Flat Clear Grey Tone (C183), would that be safer or would blasting it carefully with a thin coat of white sound alright?
  14. TMBounty_Hunter
    Hasegawa's site has been listing the 18th as the release day, so it's probably a bit early for any notifications. Unless there's something I don't know about how Hasegawa does things...would be nice if it came out a day or so earlier and let me bundle it with my other private warehouse stuff.
  15. TMBounty_Hunter
    Is that Tamiya's Type 74? I have one of those waiting in the HLJ Private Warehouse.
  16. TMBounty_Hunter
    There go my dreams of a Fire Bomber 2060 anime. Oh well. Hopefully they'll strike gold again at the auditions like they did with Megumi Nakajima last time.
  17. TMBounty_Hunter
    Thank you very much for the comments and advice!
  18. TMBounty_Hunter
    Thanks for the comments! Against the sun was kinda hoping for a cool shot. I tried right out of the sun at first but that wasn't as cool as I expected.. The sun off to the side was a bit better. Putting the sun behind me would put an ugly building behind the model and not the pretty skies. As far as photo editing, I didn't do anything because I'm not really sure where the line of TOO MUCH lies. How do you hit the zone of fixing if there's anything inadequate in the raw image without going into making it look better than the real thing is? I'll probably fiddle more with photography in the future.
  19. TMBounty_Hunter
    Thank you for all the comments! I do plan to do the Hasegawa kits a bit more subtly, hopefully. Any more comments/criticism/advice? Anything that's overdone? Underdone? Anything that stands out or doesn't fit? Would love more feedback. Tried taking some pictures in the sunlight:
  20. TMBounty_Hunter
    Thank you! Forgot to include a pic. Leftover decals: http://i.imgur.com/r2a2FKN.jpg Because masking is sooooooo muuuuuuuch more fun.
  21. TMBounty_Hunter
    This is my 12th finished kit overall and the first Macross one. Apologies for the crummy photos, I realized I don't really know how to take good ones. I'll post some outdoor photos eventually, but they're not promising direct sunlight for a few days over here. Would love some comments before I move on to the fancy Hasegawa kits. Or any other project for that matter. I have obscenly little experience painting and could use all the advice in the world
  22. TMBounty_Hunter
    IMO, analog video sources should never, ever be used for color reference. Especially when it's really crappy, multi-generational copies like macross/robotech have suffered from for so long. It's pretty much worthless. If you're going to use video for color reference (which is in general not the best idea because of the variation in monitors/TVs as well as decoder settings) at least try to get the best available and use it merely as a guide and not the absolute definition. From the BDs (which is as close as you'll get to the original film): 27: http://i.minus.com/ipsmeghuHPljh.jpg 30: http://i.minus.com/iBlPL8kwxTbvG.jpg Sure Hasegawa's looks darker, but I like it more that way. A darker blue works better with a glossy finish, and the one on the reference model is fantastic.
  23. TMBounty_Hunter
    I'm still a little bit scared of my Hasegawa valks. This is a very useful thread for me. Thanks for posting your awesome work!
  24. TMBounty_Hunter
    If they're going to just keep it a single SKU they should add Miria's angle somewhere, either the inside or the bottom of the box. That's be awesome.
  25. TMBounty_Hunter
    Those are also Hasagawa kits. It's the same as what you're already doing but with a few extra parts and different decals.
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