leading edge
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Everything posted by leading edge
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Interesting what other parts are you planning to incorporate into the gerwalk mode. i heard there was a mod in the joint that you needed to hold it in place when it bends forward don't quote me on this but I believe it was a kind of lock I 'll have to get back to you on that. Ether way this is a really cool idea and looks like it's going well good luck.
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I've been thinking about building the morgan after the project I'm working on but getting a consensus on parts and look of this fictional build would be nice. I'm thinking of putting some serious money into this project but I feel I need the extra push to motivate me to spend this much on this X-plane. I 'm calling on people from the macoss world forums to formulate a definite opinion to give me an informed decision and give ideas for an authentic look of this plane. I'll post some pictures and ref please be as critical a possible.
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I just gotta know will the hanger doors open airlock style(hhe love that stuff). I mean i was blown away with the LED lighting (which by the way are you going to have a orange caution light like the ones they have on forklifts)I just think this is one of the more ambitious builds hats off to you dude.
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How will you get the surface to become smooth and detailed. I've used milliput fine and gottem nice results for the surface of ceramics and plastic.
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1/60 customizing a v.1 gbp to fit a v.2 valk?
leading edge replied to Dax415's topic in The Workshop!
I don't know much about that armor did you try a comparison y'know do you have both part available to check against each other? If not modification is not out of the question. -
Actually I found a way that is cheap and easy. http://image.misterart.com/grouppix/528x352/000/g467.jpg rub and buff. This is only a part of the process to change your canopy's surface shine and color. the first part is keeping the color from being distorted here are a few solutions 1. mount a iridescent mylar alumilzed wraping behind the canopy this is done with eiter a adhesive or a what I like to do is just use a heat gun or hairdryer to apply the film to the back of the canopy. 2. If the tinting is not enough or you want a single color in the spectrum to dominate like orange purple or green just dye the canopy or use a transparent color and paint via an airbrush. Remember to have a thinning solution ready and use test pieces to get the color right. It is also in my experience that you should wait to apply the irredescent film permanently it tends to be kind of distracting. A final note on this is to check in natural sunlight to maktre sure the color is working well with canopy and there are no blotches or bubles in the film. 3. If the coating of transparent film is not metalic enough just apply a little rub and buff wax ( be sure there is a clear coat of thin transparent acrylic on the surface before you do this) without a clear coat of protection the transparent layer on the canopy can be rubbed off. Wax from rub and buff is pretty easy from there just polish gently or as the instruction tell you and you should have a incredible finish. A final advice make sure to do all these steps as fine as you can and practice before you try this or you will have to repeat the process again.
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Nice choice with the Iwatta they really do a good job blending colors. Are you planning on adding a metalized finish to the cockpit? It tends to make the canopy look like a mirror/ translucent sunglasses like the FA/22 canopy except in this case a more bluish purple. here is an example.
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wow, was that really necessary? I really don't see the point this considering half to 2/3rds of these images are readily available on other websites, and a good chunk of whats left are thumbnail images so small you can barely tell what they're depicting. almost all of the line art is availible on (if not directly lifted from) Mr. March's M3 and most of the book scans can be found on http://www.macrosshare.com/ : Quote Actually they are scans that I own at least some of them the rest are from various sources some were chosen for size and quality and others were saved for reference over the years. Like I have said this is a localized reference this is meant to aid you as of now it is not finished it is being sorted throught also I need a better way to access them at the moment I'm working on that. If anyone has any ideas oh and by the way I have a lot of references I bought plenty of Macross imports over the years so this is just a little bit of what I have collected.
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Say if you need more ship reference my Macross reference collection thread has a lot of Lineart on that ship check it out. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=33264 check the macross plus section for the ship sorry it's so disorganized trying to make it more accessible.
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Here is just a few add more if you like. If you have any ideas to improve this please tell me.
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Wow very difficult given the type of craft chosen but looking good. Do you have other plans for future scratch/conversion projects.
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Scratch Building/Model Modification Archive Thread
leading edge replied to Dax415's topic in The Workshop!
If the joint i strong you could is carefully measure the part and use a trick I used to do on older kits like the old macross Arii batroid models, 1st you take a piece on plastic from the kit or fine shavings, possibly some cellophane and fill the small excess space with non abrasive material. First you measure how much is missing If the joint is just unable to hold the weight consider joint reconstruction or save yourself some time and simply fill the joint with some fine non abrasive material that will create pressure in the joint. I stay away from chemical fillers instead try freezer cellophane the kind used to wrap food up( remember use no glue if possible). or simple get a tight smooth fit without the hassle of butchering the kit. As a rule if it's tight is damaging the joint if it is finger tight( able to move with only a little push)then you aren't damaging the joint. -
I have that dremmel I don't use it often because I don't want to have to correct mistakes in the surface , you have no prob with yours good work. Are you planning to make your own decals or is there already a set that comes with this kit?
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This topic is about modeling innovations and refinements which can benefit the Macross World Forums' Building/Customizing Macross Models & Toys and to promote an free exchange of ideas between talented builders and their creations. I hope to generate discussions and tips on how to make our models the very best they can be. To start the things off I've got an idea to improve the rapid fabrication of parts without the aid of expensive tools. Templates schematic view, top, front view. these include the basic dimensions of almost any object. 1st draw out image via your computer or photoshop then approximate an image three different ways top, front, and schematic view. these will give the basic dimensions needed to create a simple object. Here are a few examples. the destroid shows the basic dimensions necessary to make a simple "cutout" shape. When I make anything I tend to use my jeweler's calipers and a standard 12 inch ruler to measure and test the size of parts I need to replace or make. As you can see after cutting the shape you eliminate at least 60% of the work you need to do to finish a piece. The anything left is to shape an polish the piece to make sure the details are all there" (I tend to use either foam styrene or Industrial clays to finish and shape a piece)
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that canopy looks good and it's great to see you pushing ahead these projects can get a little discourging sometimes. I love it do you have a website to check out more of your work possible tutorial on the forums?
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I vote spartan Destroids get little respect and are still cool regardless I vote for the spartan. Besides there is no transforming and a lot of gundam kits these days you can bash to build it. also here is some awesome reference for the model should you build it.
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Update: The recent developement on this project is going slower due to my funds being used up and poor finances at the moment I will continue to use everything at my disposal to make this craft. One Idea that is great is using industrial clay to model the body. I tried my latest attempt at making the plane mode of the VF-171 but wasn't able to get the detail I wanted also the time it takes to shape foam this way is very difficult. I 've decided to go a new direction templates which cut clay or foam quickly. there are three side that you generally use to make an object complete and that is to 1st the profile the top view and the front view. Having a template for each dimension ensures the completeness of shape and form. Sadly there is such little info on this model I have to either make it up or simulate it on my computer physically. I chose to make it up since although a cad program is great I want o focus on some info I can input at the moment and a clay model with a little detail will be good. Here as always are some site for reference.http://www.carbodydesign.com/detail.php?id=828 http://masseydesign.wordpress.com/2009/02/25/industrial-clay-modelling-workshop/ http://www.idc.iitb.ac.in/about/studios-clay.html http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/shop/fimo_faberclay.htm http://www.carbodydesign.com/archive/2006/06/16-alfa-romeo-villa-d-este-design-story/ -I shows how they made a model of a concept car examples: these are some methods I am considering for the VF-171 EX
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Giving your control panel display and lighting
leading edge replied to leading edge's topic in The Workshop!
Update on Lighting know it's been a while here is a few more ideas and any comment or criticism is welcome. http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/cj_blink.htm-lighting effects http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_flash.htm http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_deluxe8.htm http://culttvman.com/main/?p=3712- internal lighting -
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Deleted pics from last post needed a better body not flexible to detailed modification here are a few ideas and new techniques I have been using. the first three are of the body which I'm adding more detail and shape to the last ones are an improved nose cone decided the second one was too disproportional need one that also had a better accuracy blue styrafoam is just better. Here are a few improved body and nose cone updated will proceed as soon as I have them. sorry for the double post oops!
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Dude you have just scratched the surface on this. If you really want some thing perfected you go so far as making test color sheets then you have to apply them to the surface the only trouble is that some of the decal paper isn't very strong and you tend to get scratches on your decals. Personnally I've opted to try a dry transfer process an art teacher taught me as an alternative for the easy decals( rescue and U.N. Spacey kite symbol). Just take some matte medium( found at local Aaron brothers/ Michaels and print and image on a piece of paper with vellum ( now remember this isn't perfect but it can save a little time if your sick of decals) feed into the printer it should partially absorb the image if on a high quality level. remember to reverse and size image to specification then paint an area of the model with matte medium wait a little till sticky keep it even or the image will warp. The medium should be sticky yet solid not too wet or it will run also it you use gesso on a white surface it will enhance the properties of this process.
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Giving your control panel display and lighting
leading edge replied to leading edge's topic in The Workshop!
ti I tried talking to a cellphone vendor in my local mall the lighting effects on some of these cell phones use a timing circuit much like the ones found on Christmas lights. I've been trying to find the smallest one for some projects. One problem I'm finding is the size of the battery is hampering my models and have to be built in a stand or display. The only way I found to eliminate this problem is to use watch battteries and watch parts that way there is a place for the battery pack. About two lithium batteries will do for a medium size watch. I have yet to try the timing circuit and hook it up to the formation lights I'm working on (cant seem to get them to blink right). http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9313373/.../tm.htm#9330665 I'll try the method mentioned in this article and make adjustments as necessary. http://ledz.com/?p=zz.led.resistor.calculator ( this is for calculating LED resistors.) http://www.rc-cam.com/navlight.htm ( formation lights) -
This is a discussion for the use of lighting effects and internal detail of models. I've collected some data on the subject which I feel will make a model look that much more authentic. I specifically want to focus on the finishing touches( sensors, camera, exaust, control panel lighting, and exterior color). One such effect would be the electroluminescence found inthe display panels of cars. I find it fascinating yet is it possible to use instead of an LED? I just read the article in wikipedia and it is a promising novel approach to making the lighting "softer" LED's can give great effect bur I'm looking for a glow to the display even on a transparent piece say the HUD. Any ideas would be welcome. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroluminescence here is a comparison with the DRYL display and a real electroluminescence panel.
