Mule

Making an SDP-1 is on my list of things to do. I plan on making it from a Hasegawa VF-1S Strike model, but there are a few problems: 1) I have never tried to scratch build anything even remotely this complex before. 2) I've never worked with resin before. 3) With the time I've got, this could take years. Aside from these glaring deficiencies, things should work out just fine

Man, rough crowd The Yamato Monster will just be of the standard Mk II Monster from the series, not the transforming Koenig Monster. That is unless Yamato has changed their mind and isn't telling anyone.

The bore rifling will look cool. Just having the inside of the barrel exposed does look like something is missing.

At that enormous scale, I think you are going to need to put in some re-enforcements on many of the large, flat areas. What I did in some cases was add another paper layer to the back of the pice I found to be too flimsy. For yours, you might need some kind of titanium structure underneath

I never thought of it that way. I was just pissed that the toner was flaking off. Thanks for the new perspective

Schweeeeet! Thanks!

Good luck to ya man. The bigger print might make it easier to make. Be sure to let us know when it's done!

I posted pics of my finished paper Monster in the model forum a while ago. Here's a link to the thread. A few posts down I included the link to the original files. Mine was printed on a black and white printer, but the originals are in color. Don't be fooled into thinking its an easy build just because its made of paper. It took a lot longer than I expected.

On this board, it wouldn't surprise me if some folks won't accept anything less than a 1/48 scale Monster. For me, even 1/60 is way too big. I'm happy with my paper Monster model that's about HO scale. That is still almost a foot tall and a foot and a half long.

Most important of all, it would make those dramatic space battle scenes really hard to watch.

What are you using for a primer? I've been using Badger's primer, but it is some really finicky stuff.

Lookin' good GunnerX I've got one of these in the model queue, right after the VF-1S.

Hasegawa VF-4 and VF-11 in 1/72 scale. I think it would be cool to have a display of all of the primary VFs of the UN Spacy starting with the VF-1 and progressing through to the VF-19.

To put it more in perspective: Those are two 1/72 Hasegawa kits posted by Graham in the "larger scale VF-0" thread. Holy $hit! Hey someone had to say it But seriously, that is a much bigger size difference than I expected.

I hope they doesn't redesign the VF-1. That silhouette has come to symbolize Macross. Any old-school dork (like each and every one of us) can recognise it in a second. And even though it has definate thowbacks to 70's and 80's era fighters, I still love the design. I've got a 1/60 VF-1S Strike in the office. Not a day goes by that I don't stop and gawk at that thing for several minutes. CG can lie almost as easily as hand drawn. One of the reasons given for the exchangeable nose on the new 1/100 VF-0 was to ensure accuracy in both modes. In other words the nose section morphs from fighter/GERWALK to battroid. The hydrolic system that places the legs on the nose of the VF-1 would be pretty easy to do in the CG realm.

For those of you who are interested, StarshipModeler has an online build article showing how the master of the Betty was made by Alfred Wong. Betty Online Build Great stuff

I'd for one would miss the magazine updates. The forums are great, but the scanned magazine pictures have given me tons of inspiration to go out and build models in ways I hadn't tried before. I totally understand that this site is a labor of love, and it pays nothing. Even if there isn't another update for a year, I have to thank Shawn for all the work he has put into this site so far.

All valks or just VF-1 toys? You've got to admit, the VF-1 market has been saturated by BanDai, Yamato and others. How did the re-release of the VF-11 and YF-21 go? Does anyone on those boards think that a brand spankin' new 19 would sell better? Just wondering. Im really hoping for a new YF-19, but if Yamato doesn't think it will sell, I can understand why they won't take that road. Designing and building something like this can't be easy or cheap. Hopefully the Mac Zero line does well for them. I'd hate for them to lose interest in Macross all together.

Kawamori's swing bars retract into the fuselage and are only seen during transformation. I don't think doing that accurately would be possible on a 1/100 scale toy. The more I hear about this thing, the better I feel about it. I really hope they make a 1/60 of it sometime, but the detail and lower price on the 1/100 is quite nice. We'll just have to see what the finished product looks like.

Says, "We have already introduced the Hasegawa 1:72 VF-0 on page 140, however..." Darn. That's what I was afraid of.

Anyone know what the first line in the article says? It has 1:72 and VF-0S in close proximity. The threat of a 1:100 scale VF-0 sure makes the 1:72 scale sound good. Still, I think the detail looks really good even for such a small scale. Love to see it in other modes. For reference, the Yamato VF-11B is about 24cm.

I'm kind of new to panel line washes myself, but I'm finding it isn't as bad as I feared. I'm working on a Bandai Glaug right now. After doing tons of research, reading articles here and other places like Starship Modeler, it seemed that a diluted oil wash was the way to go. Start with thinner and add paint to it. When it is dark enough, apply it with a thin brush. Just dab it in the panel line or recess you want highlighted and caplilary action will do the rest. Let it dry for a little bit then wipe off the excess on the surface with a dry paper towel in the direction you want streaks. If you are having problem removing enough paint from the surface, put just a hint of thinner on the towel. It may look really dark when you first apply it, but after thoroughly drying, it will lighten up a little. If the results suck, get the towel really wet with thinner, wipe it all off and start again. It takes practice to know what the right combination of thinner and paint is for your needs. I suggest buying some random model with engraved panel lines and giving it a shot. Destryoy that model instead of messing up your Valk. Good luck to ya!

I haven't had a problem with it. I've used it straight from the bottle with no thinning. Are you letting the airbrush sit too long without cleaning it? Or maybe you're not getting it clean enough? Are you sure its the Future that is causing the clog? Windex works great to clean Future out of an airbrush. Its also really cheap so I suggest pumping a bunch of it through the brush to make sure its all de-gunked. Edit for spelling.

I think it started out in battroid but transformed into fighter mode at the last second just before plowing into the Macross. It has been a little while since I watched it though, so I might be mistaken.

1) Getting Myung out was a top priority. If they both stayed to fight the Ghost they might both have been killed. Guld stayed behind to occupy the Ghost so Isamu could get Myung without having to worry about it. 2) Where was Myung? Right next to Sharron. Take out Sharron with gunfire or missiles and Myung goes too. And as Aegis mentioned, missiles and guns wouldn't have been able to get through to the nerve center of the Macross. Isamu moved the 19's pinpoint barrier to the nose and slammed into it.