Jefuemon
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2003 -
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Everything posted by Jefuemon
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I put the ISBN at the start of my review. Take that in to your local bookstore, and see if they can order you a copy.
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It's just Hikaru's J that got the repaint.
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I did a slightly modified "how to" on the recessed verniers section.
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Looks like I can pick up both novels from Amazon Japan for ￥2900. Worth doing that?
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I always chuckled at the childish bickering between Isamu and Guld when they were throwing down near the end of Plus. http://youtu.be/OIYYMIWssyU
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Here's a completed one on Yahoo Japan Auctions. On a side note, that really is a goofy looking VF-4. Heard about them, but never seen one actually built.
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Not into the toy side of Macross at all, but the most I've spent on a model kit is $262 for a 1/72 scale Tanmen Cats Eye.
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vernier/burner, there's been a discussion about which is the proper translation. So far, things have been working out pretty well. I'm confident enough to try this out on my next VF-1 kit when I get to it. I know. My original thought was to drill out the area, put a little lump of epoxy putty on the inside, then form it into a cone shape with a wooden stick. Could probably work that way, but I'll let someone else experiment with that!
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VE-11 Thunderseeker. Throwing Macross 7 a little milking-the-mold love.
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5 hours left on auction. 2 days left on auction.
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I've used Celga in the past, had no troubles with them. Now, I just have my wife bid on the rare items I see. Another thing you might not know, you need to have a paid membership with Yahoo Auctions if you want to bid on something over ￥3500.
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As of right now, Bandai is the only game in town for VF-25 kits. But that will change this summer!!!!
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What's the deal with the profile stars?
Jefuemon replied to Zoroastres's topic in MW Site News & Member Feedback
Yee-haw! I've got no stars. Nobody likes me, everyone hates me, guess I'll go eat worms..... I think that's how it goes. -
Yeah, it's fun working in 1/48 scale every once in a while.
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Hope you don't mind metric, since that's all I gots Length is almost 40 cm. Width with wings folded is about 18.5 cm. Wings extended is around 31 cm. It's just about 1 cm too wide to fit in my display case in flight mode, so I have to display it with the wings in storage mode.
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Working with this, I've noticed a change to the plans. If you're putting these in place while the part is still in half, hold off on putting on the inner disk until after the pipe has been trimmed, puttied, and sanded. Easier to get all the dust junk out if it's an open tube.
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Watching episode 1 on TV right now. Cool beans!!
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Actually, above XL, it's size O, then XO, XXO, XXXO, and so on. I've had salesgirls ask me if it's really OK that I want a 2XO sized exercise shirt. I can fit an XO, but 2XO is a little better. A size L, and I look like 10 lbs of sausage stuffed into a 5 lbs casing.
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No problem. I love living over here, but it's still kind of hard to find clothes that fit. Good rule of thumb for most Japanese sizes, downsize about 1 1/2 from the American size.
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The Workbench thread is OK to post these under, since there's a lot of real world aircraft posted there, too. Nice work, by the way.
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Probably be a bit tight. This is an XL sized hoodie, and it's a little tight on me (181 cm, around 95 kg). Damn, 209 pounds! Metric sounds so much better!!
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Just a note of interest- the art director of Battlcry was a friend of mine. We met when I noticed he had a superdeformed VF-1A CF keyholder hanging out of his pocket, and got to talking about Roboblech and Macross. He had never seen anything of the original, so I lent him some of my Macross books. He really appreciated seeing the Mospeada stuff in the Artmic Design Works book, as they were planning "Invasion" at the time.
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Some of you (hopefully) noticed that I recently got the book VF Modeling Manual. In there, they give a description on how to do a recessed vernier for your 1/72 kit. As I am building an old Imai Gerwalk now, and trying to pep it up a bit, here's what I did to make the vernier. Start by getting yourself some 5 mm plastic pipe. I'm using Tamiya. No special reason for it being clear, that's just what the hobby shop happened to have in stock. Next, take the part you want, and drill a 5 mm hole (obviously, on the Hasegawa kits, just remove the original casted vernier area. Cut a small piece of the rod. I did around 4 mm long. Then, smooth out the rough edge. Now, here is where I'm deviating from the Modeling Manual plans, since I've got some extra parts from Jasmine Models lovely VF-1 PE set. I'm using the round pieces in the lower left. Glue the round piece onto one end of the short tube. Draw a mark on the tube for how far you want to insert it into your kit. You only want to go 2 mm or so. Put it, and glue it. Once the glue has set, trim off the excess, and sand it flat. Put on the top piece, and you're finished! (actually, wait to do this until you've primed and painted. much easier to get the inside black with no cover) Now, if you don't have the PE set, use a small disk of plaplate (5 mm, natch), and a small strip over the top of it. You'll also want to get a circle scribing template (probably around 6 mm) to go around the outside of the hole.
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Oh my, I'm scratch-building now! Yeah, it's not much, but it's the first time I've ever tried anything like this. Kind of fun!
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Exactly. Bandai also used it on some of their 15th anniversary Macross kits. I'm building an old Imai kit now, and plan on using the Warmaker decals. Thanks for the CF pilot pic!
