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Everything posted by Jefuemon
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My advice, is if you see someone's work you like here, ask them. Couldn't hurt.
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I'm kind of leaning towards ordering some stuff from the Evan's Design site posted earlier. I'm sure they've got LED's and other stuff available over here, it's just figuring out the correct search terms (sometimes, it's a lot easier to go with an English site).
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Bandai 1/72 fully transform able VF-1 plastic kit for Macross 30th Ann
Jefuemon replied to Vi-RS's topic in Model kits
I don't think better quality pictures are going to improve things any... -
Oh my. Missiles from the nose sensor, and machine guns in the wing lights. I thought only Roboblech made mistakes like that.
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I just happen to be playing Persona 3:FES right now, that's why I picked her out. If you have a PS2 that'll play American games, and have an interest in Japanese culture, I highly recommend this game.
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My first impression is a very stylized Mitsuru Kijiro from the video game Persona 3.
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Just took a peek at this site. Looks to have exactly what I was thinking about. Looks really user friendly, too. Just might be placing an order in the future.
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm not looking at lighting up the Valk, I know that's way beyond my skill now. Just kicking around the idea of some lights on the hanger wall, and/or on the launch arm. Slow steps for a first time.
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I'm wondering how long it'll take to open over here. Hopefully not much longer than stateside.
- 495 replies
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- The Hobbit
- Peter Jackson
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So, for my current build, I'm toying around with the idea of adding a few LED's to spice it up a bit. Just looking for a few warning lights, and such. Problem is, I'm one of those people whose lighting/mechanical endeavors in model building fail 98% of the time. I couldn't even get the monoeye of a PG Zaku II to light! So, does anyone have some idiot-proof (or at least very resistant) LED products, tips, or tricks to share? Thanks!
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Thin those with Mr Leveling Thinner, and you're good to go! I've found that the Leveling Thinner works a tad better than regular Mr Thinner. Major "Mr. Product" user here.
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I thought it was a Punisher skull.
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Another site I used to belong to would always say "The person you're responding to died 3 years ago." to unintentional necroposting.
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Yes, clear parts are a whole different animal. Don't use putty on them!
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Yes, that's where you remove the gap/unevenness between where 2 parts fit together. It's a very good skill to learn and use. Basically, what you need is some modeling putty (I recommend Tamiya Basic Grey), some type of putty knife (I use something like #15131), and some 300 grit sandpaper. Run a line of putty down the seam, smooth and shape it (and remove excess) with the putty knife, sand it smooth once it's dried, usually 24 hours. You should see a big improvement in your builds once you get the technique down.
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OK, I think you've got the panel line washing down pretty well for a beginning effort. Now, let's talk about puttying, and seam-line filling.
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No droopy leg syndrome with the 1/48 kits. Like Checkmate said, just have to watch out for the feet. Next 1/48 I build, I'm going to lightly glue them into place.
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Fire BomBAR reviewed at JapanTourist site
Jefuemon replied to Bariaburu Faita's topic in Movies and TV Series
Damn, I was just down in Osaka, too! Wish I has heard about this earlier.- 17 replies
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- Fire Bomber
- Bar
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(and 2 more)
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Looks good! We need more 1/48 love around here.
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In my opinion, that's a pretty good start. But, I like to have my Macross kits dirty, not right from the factory clean.
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The Promodelers Wash is actually a fine clay solution in water. That's why it's so easy to clean up.When using that particular wash, I do big decals down, then wash, then small decals (like the No Step, and stuff like that). For the enamel wash, do that first, then decal, because I'm almost certain that will eat away your decal if put on top of it.
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That's pretty much the same technique I used to use. Now, I use this, in black. Very easy to use, and you can apply it over properly set decals no problem. I've been using this for probably close to 2 years, and just finally finished my first bottle.
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Hasegawa 1/72 VF-1 special 30th Anniversary paint scheme by Hidetaka
Jefuemon replied to Dark_Ghost's topic in Model kits
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I had some left over Gundam browns (light and dark, from a Desert Dom paint set), mixed them together, then added some yellow to get the shade that I liked. One thing I don't understand. I don't build Gundam kits, so why do I have about 10 different shades of Gundam grays in my paint inventory??