VF-19

correct me if im wrong, but is that a joystick in the middle of the cockepit, i though it was supposed to be on the right hand side of the pilot. TV series VF-1s have the "traditional" joystick in between the legs set up. The DYRL have the more recent joystick to one side setup.

Please please please tell me you got a forward view picture, and a picture that shows what the panel looks like! PS. Lucky you... Grr...

Quick! Read this to live! Zombie Survival Guide

As soon as that movie is even mentioned, sue for your share of the profits, since you've come up with the idea first. It'll at least delay the movie from coming out.

I feel like walking into the boardroom of Fox, and quoting the famous line in Predator: "A bunch of slack-jawed *bad word* around here!" Shove out a copy of Predator and the first two Alien movies "This stuff will turn you into a *blasemy word* sexual Tyranosaur, just like me." While I did somewhat remotely like AvP, I felt rather underwhelmed with the whole film. I did see it for free, so it wasn't a total waste of money.

It is enormous. You probably could hack off a bit of space here and there, but not much... Thank god I got my 1J locally (and at a steal of a deal too! ). $50-60 CDN to ship from HLJ is just too much...

Actually, if you either watch the original Star Trek, or read up on what happened to the Cannon ships, you'll notice that the Defiant dissapeared, never to be heard from again. Good enough reason to have it sucked into the mirror universe, and Evil-Archer going on a power trip. Heh. The legacy of the redshirts live on!

Thanks for the list. Perhaps I should dry fit the entire kit and put a picture up, so you can rail italiari for the inaccuracies (and give me some visual cues). Hopefully I can have a picture up tonight, if I don't get bogged down by other stuff.

Could you make a list? I wouldn't mind the extra challange. I already know about the airbrake inbetween the rudder that shouldn't be there, but what else should be removed, added or modified? Failing a list, a nice walkaround would be very useful (if anything, for ideas). Edit: I've seen a few at aircraftresourcecenter.com, and while they're good, they're more for weathering, and a nice schematic view of the plane would be great...

After seeing pictures of the Super Hornet (or not so super... ), I fell in love with the plane enough to warrant a small model. A 1:72 scale model. I settled on an Italiari kit. Short story, AVOID! The intakes alone will drive you insane. Luckly, I'm willing to put up with the poor fit on the intakes (jewler's files come in very handy here), as so far, they're the only problem on the kit (fit wise). Should have sprung for a Hasegawa F-18E... Think I should do it up in a CF-18 scheme? Sort of a "what if" concept. As for that 1:72 Raptor I picked up last summer... Well, let's just say, I'm really pissed at the weapon bay doors. Pissed enough that I don't want to touch the kit just yet.

Looks great, but some flail to Bishop's legs would make it even greater. Then again, Bishop IS an android, so who knows what his legs do when disconnected from the rest of his body.

Well then, looks like you've got another waterslide decal set sold! Just two other questions: Should I just get the Max and Miria specialty set, or get the generic set and the specialty (Max and Miria) set together? I'd like to not find out I'm missing something... You mentioned in you FAQ that the decals are a little more fragile than the normal decals (read the ones that come with Hasegawa, Tamiya etc kits). How much more fragile are they? Is it likely that the big decals might tear? I'm not a total stranger to doing decals, but I'd rather not screw up.

FINALLY got my hands on a Meister today. Now all I need is Tracks... Is it just me, or is Jazz's head a little low in bot mode?

What I'd really like to see is how the decals have held up after TWO YEARS (wink wink, nudge nudge) of being on Roy's VF-1S. I snagged a Miria 1J today for $200 CDN (a little bit cheaper than HLJ! ), and now I'm thinking about getting a waterslide set for her...

Heck, I'm still looking for Tracks and Jazz... They NEVER showed up in Ottawa...

For a more realistic, albeit smaller, bike, get this: http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN922945 Engine sounds and motion must be provided by purchaser.

I've gotten it to stand a couple of times without the display stand. It's a little bit of a trick, as the balance point is pretty small, and the ball joints in the little dragon legs are prone to swing at the worst time. Just get a large clear table, and experiment.

Though not officially labeled, I will agree with you. They do look very much similar. Hmm... "beam gun gondolas" 「ビーム砲ゴンドラ」 Sounds cool. Nice. 40mm guns for the tank tank buster Hurricane (intended for use in the desert, the enlarged chin intake gives it away). Also does very well for shooting aircraft (assuming you can hit the buggers). I'm agreeing with the gunpod idea. However, it would also be nice to see an underside view with the wing guns attached, just to clarify (but I doubt that).

I have a Max 1A, and I love it. It does have some improvements over the Hikaru 1A (hips are slightly different, stickers are different, etc...), and it is a different overall colour from the Hikaru 1A. Personally, since Max kicks so much butt in DYRL?, go with Max. But then again, Hikaru did save the Macross' bridge, and Minmay...

Heh... I have a zero tolerance policy for dead pixels. I ordered a NES styled SP for my bro online, and it came with 3 dead pixels in the center of the screen. Luckly, the store was very nice, and replaced the faulty SP with a new (and same style) SP. Personally, this stuff should be caught at the factory. If, and when I get a PSP (when it drops to a price that is less than astronomical), I'm keeping my eye out for dead pixels. Also, is anybody having trouble with their square button? I've heard about the sensor not being positioned exactly under the button on the Japanese units, but I don't know about the North American units...

Don't know about modern fighters, but WW2 fighters had a mixture of ammo in their gunbelts. For example, a German 20 mm cannon mounted on a FW-190, could fire high explosive, armour peircing, tracers, delay explosive (basically exploded inside the target), hydro explosive (explodes on contact with liquid, IE, the fuel tank), and incindiary ammo. Lots of fun for the poor sod on the receiving end...

I have a Super 1J, and everything holds together nicely in either mode. The wings, when folded, help support the backpack in battroid mode. When in fighter mode, gently, and I repeat GENTLY push the hinge forward until it clicks (its not fragile, but you should be nice to it). There should be a lesser chance of the FAST packs flopping down.

To everybody living in the Ottawa Area (Ontario, Canada, DUH! ). If you want an Energon Omega Supreme redeco (aka Omega Sentinel), the Walmart at Place D'Orleans has him for... $20. I kid you not. Picked one up this morning, and I'm very happy with it. Although, he's a tad heavy (expected).

Harriers can also only hover for about 90 seconds, before the engine would become overheated. While it's hovering, an on-board watertank is used to help cool the engine. Is a VF-1 restricted in this fashion also, or can it hover for much longer periods?

Look closer at Prime's legs and arms. There's some minor dings and scratches molded in. While yes, detail is somewhat sparse, the toy overall is downright cool. Plus you can blind people with that super bright LED in the Matrix. Most of the detail in the Escaflowne comes from the shading that's airbrushed onto the toy.