Urashiman

I think I just had a nerdgasm, awesome work!

The coloring scheme is so awesome.

Nice build! Got one of these sitting unbuild in my shelf, but from Revell (really old kit mold from the 90s - means much putty and sanding).

Holy Cow. *watching_the_drama_unfold* anyway... @ARK 3 I would recommend you to read the Forum Rules and Guidelines again. They can be found here: It doesn't matter how old someone is, if that someone doesn't play by the rules. Posting your request in every part of the forum or subtopic qualifies as spam. Your request fits into "Fan Works". Fellow Macross fans are probably able to help you in there. Else I would recommend you to visit one of the many 3D engineering boards out there on the internet. Google is you friend.

well - the original fins are not pointy at all, but are horizontally aligned to the main body, compared to the interpretion from xigfrid. Just check the official Kawamori line art below.

MilF - LOL! Thats a good one

Nice washing and weathering!

Yeah - that is the problem with most Star Wars models. There is alot of tech trivia on sizes and shapes due to inconsistency in the models that where created by the special effects guys.. Try searching for a scale Tie-Fighter. It is impossible due to sizes variing from 6 meters to 10 meters and stuff like this... The modelbuilders used 1/24 scale puppets in the tie-fighters in episode 4, but in the movies the tie-fighters compare to the x-wings to be huge, so (especially in the HD versions of Star Wars) tie-fighters are visibily piloted by giants (Macross Style - yeah ) The bulkier Falcon is concidered canon by most fans. Many prefer the slim version as it looks really neat and agile.

Did some SMD LED soldering for the Gundam.

haha! nice, thanks for the advice. I am good at soldering stuff. I am doing this since I am 8 years old, so no worries. My uncled worked in a chip factory for Siemens and teached me how to "bake" SMDs. Use low temperature solder, put the solder on the circuit board soldering points, align every SMD where it has to be and preheat your oven to 250°C. Bake for 2-3 minutes, and done. This only works if you are actually using a circuit board. Else you have to do manually with a soldering iron. I have thin litz wire, insulated and bare wire in various sizes. PR41 batteries are really small. I am only going to power 3 SMD LEDs in the voltage range of 2.7-3.1V. One PR41 battery has 1.45V, so I would need two to have ~2.9V. PR41 batteries provide power in a range from 160mAh to 200mAh. 3SMD LEDs suck ~60mA (20mA each). Quick math - 160mAh/60mA = 2.6h. For switching it on and off from time to time this should do.

Looks great, good job! But be careful, papercuts you know...

huh ... well ... urgh... but no worries. I managed to fix it. Thanks for pointing that out. Hahahahaha! thanks guys

@arbit look what you have done. You caused me to be inspired and work on my Gundam RX78-2 ver. One Year War 0079 and make something crazy like this: I have to get smaller cells if I want to build all that stuff into the head. Probably R41 hearing aid batteries. Also the LEDs are too big and too bright. Ordered some SMD LEDs. Muhahaha!

xigfrid... This is pure awesomeness. The VF-9 looks really great! Congratulations!

Here - one completed VF-4 WAVE kit. My initial thoughts on the kit were the quality issues: - thick panel lines that could fit a zentradi finger - inaccurate dimensions of the main body and wings BUT! - most of the parts were fitting together really nice except for some edges. Especially the weapon housing on both engines. I fixed this easily by cutting away a pin on both sides. In the end I am satisfied with the result.

@arbit Great work on that Millenium Falcom cockpit! AWESOME! Yesterday I managed to finish my WAVE VF-4G Lightning III Let the pictures speak for themselves. The cool thing about this is that the Hasegawa Macross display stand works perfectly with the VF-4.

Thanks! Well ... I didn't really measure the ratio. I just put colors together and do it drop by drop until I have the right tone. I was using the following Revell colors: SM 374 - Light Grey SM 378 - Grey Glossy 30 - Orange Glossy 04 - White Additionally I used the following Humbrol Enamel Color Matt 42 - Violett

Finally finished my VF-11B from Macross Plus. Sorry for the bad pictures. I really need to build a lightbox or something. The washing turned out a bit dirtier than I wanted it to be. I was also watching through Macross Plus to get the colors right, as the colors provided in the Hasegawa manual didn't seem right. Sadly, during build up the main body seams ripped open. It seems that due to sanding works they became a bit too thin... Next Project: My first Wave kit So far everything fits nicely. No idea how to to the main engines exhaust yet. If I airbrush it before glueing it together I'll probably have some issues with color rubbing off during sanding. Maybe I have to tape everything first. I'll come up with something.

Awesome work so far! Will if be transformable?

Thanks - I'll think I'll build a small lightbox to take better pictures of it. No, I got mine when it first came out. Also, I got the normal VF-11B without the super packs. Just a small side note: Get the Jasmine Model Photo Etched parts. It is troublesome to get the small parts onto the pieces with my sausage fingers (my tweezers are MIA), but it looks really great!

I wish I could, I have no white background

Finished my VE-1 yesterday. And starting my next project - Macross Plus VF-11B

That'll be cool too

VA-3! GO GO GO! ...but a VF-171 would be nice too. They should scrap the VF-22, as Hasegawa has that covered. A VF-9 or VF-14 would be cooler instead Yeah ... I was a bit disappointed too, but at least I got an affordable VF-4 kit to line up with my other 1/72 macross kits. The resin VF-4s were always way too expensive, and there are bigger mistakes on the VF-4 structure on these. If Hasegawa would come up with a VF-4 I would be the first to buy it, but I'll have to stick with the Wave VF-4 for now