Urashiman

Currently working on this VF-9. It'll be a static 1/72 version, so I can display it with my Hasegawa 1/72 kits. It is far from being finished and with my perfectionism, it'll take some time.

Here is a preview:

Two Piece Canopy: Done
Front Canards: Done
Cockpit Main Body: Done
Cockpit Panels + Other interior: 0%
Pilot Seat: 0%
Pilot: 0%
Nose: 30%
Main Wings: Done
Fins: 90%
Mainbody: 10%
Engine Bays: 0%
Arms: 0%
Gear: 0%
Exhausts: 0%

Other yet unknownparts to be added.

On 12/18/2019 at 1:02 AM, HardlyNever said:

This is on my "virtual workbench" I guess (is there a thread for 3D printing stuff?):

I'm trying to make a 1/48 DX vf-1 TV style-fist, that started as a scan of yamcadia TV style fist.  Still definitely a WIP at this point, but I should have the first prototype printed out tomorrow.  I'm not sure how much of the bumpiness will be captured by the 3D printer, so I'll refine it from there.  I'm also pretty sure the ball joint is a little too small, but I should be able to adjust that pretty easily.

This was definitely harder than thought it would be when I got the idea (I'm a complete noob to 3D printing).  Props to the guys that make all those detailed models and extra pieces on Shapeways and the like; this definitely isn't easy.

Now there is a thread for 3D printing - thanks for the idea

Hey everyone,

As 3D printing is becoming more popular and affordable, I thought it'll be great to have a place to share the current progress on active projects without posting new threads.

I am currently working on a secret project which will take a while and I am not satisfied with the progress I made so far. I'll fix some parts in the next weeks and post it here. if you want to check out my old printable stuff, you can check it on shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/urashiman

Happy sharing!

17 hours ago, MechTech said:

Yeah, I was doing that back in the 80's That's when servos were MUCH bigger. -MT

Yeah, frikkin' C05 varioprop Graupner Servos. They were huge...

On 12/8/2019 at 10:36 PM, arbit said:

Mechtech, I had thought you were going to use the servo gear and arm attachment to hit a switch. I didn't know you were going to gut the servo and use the internal shaft to hit the switch. I assume the servo motor will go forward and reverse using the 4-wires?

But how on earth did you come up with that? Is repurposing servos typical? I'm just happy if they run right and know where the heck they are, which they never seem to do.

Repurposing servos is something that is done for a long time. In the 90's I used servos as "mini" gearboxes. Check the resistance on the pot, remove the pot and solder in fixed resistors. Et voila, mini electric speed controler with mini electric motor and gearbox. This technique is mostly used for 1:87 RC cars/trucks. Nowadays, people tinkering around with makerboards use it too to create easy 360° movement servos instead of using expensive stepping motors.

15 hours ago, Grayson72 said:

The hull is done! Now I have to add all the details.  Added a shot with a side by side of the Captains 5k sculpts.

Seriously, this is awesome. I need a 3D printer too... but before that a bigger flat. No space in my current one at the moment.

On 9/16/2019 at 2:25 PM, Xigfrid said:

I think I just had a nerdgasm, awesome work!

On 8/1/2019 at 7:08 PM, ivorysniper said:

First Pics of the built VF-31S are out !

The coloring scheme is so awesome.

12 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Liking your work on the ship, MT! :thumbup

My latest: I changed gears a bit and went in a...kaiju... direction...

A while back, i got a 12 inch rubber godzilla toy as part of a lot I bought on Listia; this isn't the pic of mine, as mine was in pretty rough shape:

(image courtesy of infinitehollywood.com)

At any rate, between the horrid paint job and the really bad scuffing, paint wear and  poor shape of the toy, i nearly threw it away. but I decided to spare it and set it aside for a bit until I decided what to do with it.

Well, recently, Godzilla's in a new movie ("king of the monsters" for one), and I decided that it was time to pull this guy out of mothballs and do something with him. So, I did some work sanding down the bad flash and seam lines (thing was wrecked so at this point, anything was an improvement!), and do a proper paintjob:

 

His face needed some real attention; I still have to do something about his snout (seam line was really bad there and I'm not satisfied with the current state thus far):

 

He had no tongue, so i gave him one:

He still needs more work, but G-man is well on his way.

 

Stay tuned...

 

 

Recently finished this Academy 1/72 OV 10 A. I added alot of detail to the cockpit

Nice build!

Got one of these sitting unbuild in my shelf, but from Revell (really old kit mold from the 90s - means much putty and sanding).

Holy Cow. *watching_the_drama_unfold*

anyway...

@ARK 3

I would recommend you to read the Forum Rules and Guidelines again. They can be found here:

It doesn't matter how old someone is, if that someone doesn't play by the rules. Posting your request in every part of the forum or subtopic qualifies as spam.

Your request fits into "Fan Works". Fellow Macross fans are probably able to help you in there. Else I would recommend you to visit one of the many 3D engineering boards out there on the internet. Google is you friend.

well - the original fins are not pointy at all, but are horizontally aligned to the main body, compared to the interpretion from xigfrid. Just check the official Kawamori line art below.

12 hours ago, Thom said:

That MilF is looking good.

MilF - LOL! Thats a good one

9 hours ago, arbit said:

Getting dirty! Now it feels like a Falcon.

Nice washing and weathering!

Yeah - that is the problem with most Star Wars models. There is alot of tech trivia on sizes and shapes due to inconsistency in the models that where created by the special effects guys..

Try searching for a scale Tie-Fighter. It is impossible due to sizes variing from 6 meters to 10 meters and stuff like this... The modelbuilders used 1/24 scale puppets in the tie-fighters in episode 4, but in the movies the tie-fighters compare to the x-wings to be huge, so (especially in the HD versions of Star Wars) tie-fighters are visibily piloted by giants (Macross Style - yeah )

The bulkier Falcon is concidered canon by most fans. Many prefer the slim version as it looks really neat and agile.

Did some SMD LED soldering for the Gundam.

1 hour ago, arbit said:

That's how I started too, lighting a 1/100 Nu Gundam.

- Thin wires are very important or you wont be able to close the model. I use 0.25 and 0.30 magnet enamel wire. 

- I use pre-wired SMDs with soft thin wires (I change their resitsors depending on what I need). The hard brittle type wires need to be epoxied immediately or the LEDs break off.  And you want pre wired because soledring these little guys is tough.

- As for batteries, let me know what you use. I have never figured out a solution for a good internal power source that will fit in our little models, and power multiple leds with resistors.  The really thin car remote batteries run out very quickly.  

haha! nice, thanks for the advice.
I am good at soldering stuff. I am doing this since I am 8 years old, so no worries. My uncled worked in a chip factory for Siemens and teached me how to "bake" SMDs. Use low temperature solder, put the solder on the circuit board soldering points, align every SMD where it has to be and preheat your oven to 250°C. Bake for 2-3 minutes, and done. This only works if you are actually using a circuit board. Else you have to do manually with a soldering iron.

I have thin litz wire, insulated and bare wire in various sizes. PR41 batteries are really small. I am only going to power 3 SMD LEDs in the voltage range of 2.7-3.1V. One PR41 battery has 1.45V, so I would need two to have ~2.9V. PR41 batteries provide power in a range from 160mAh to 200mAh. 3SMD LEDs suck ~60mA (20mA each). Quick math - 160mAh/60mA = 2.6h. For switching it on and off from time to time this should do.

Looks great, good job!

But be careful, papercuts you know...

21 hours ago, Chronocidal said:

Hate to break this to you, but I think you have the inlet ramp doors mounted backwards.  The thicker part should be inside toward the engine.   

Might not be too difficult to fix, depending on how well they were glued down, but fortunately the mounting points will stay hidden.

huh ... well ... urgh...

but no worries. I managed to fix it. Thanks for pointing that out. Hahahahaha!

21 hours ago, Bolt said:

Nice! Good job on the panels and paint!

11 hours ago, electric indigo said:

Very nice with the overall balanced weathering. For dealing with exaggerated panel lines: Leave off the wash or do a very light one.

thanks guys

@arbit look what you have done. You caused me to be inspired and work on my Gundam RX78-2 ver. One Year War 0079 and make something crazy like this:

I have to get smaller cells if I want to build all that stuff into the head. Probably R41 hearing aid batteries. Also the LEDs are too big and too bright. Ordered some SMD LEDs. Muhahaha!

xigfrid... This is pure awesomeness. The VF-9 looks really great! Congratulations!

Here - one completed VF-4 WAVE kit.

My initial thoughts on the kit were the quality issues:

- thick panel lines that could fit a zentradi finger

- inaccurate dimensions of the main body and wings

BUT! - most of the parts were fitting together really nice except for some edges. Especially the weapon housing on both engines. I fixed this easily by cutting away a pin on both sides.

In the end I am satisfied with the result.

@arbit Great work on that Millenium Falcom cockpit! AWESOME!

Yesterday I managed to finish my WAVE VF-4G Lightning III

Let the pictures speak for themselves.

The cool thing about this is that the Hasegawa Macross display stand works perfectly with the VF-4.

12 hours ago, arbit said:

Wow, you nailed the classic scheme. What were your ratios for the gray and orange?

(I really need someone to teach me how to improve my painting. I get a grainy finish, and my gloss is useless...)

Thanks! Well ... I didn't really measure the ratio. I just put colors together and do it drop by drop until I have the right tone.

I was using the following Revell colors:

SM 374 - Light Grey

SM 378 - Grey

Glossy 30 - Orange

Glossy 04 - White

Additionally I used the following Humbrol Enamel Color

Matt 42 - Violett

Finally finished my VF-11B from Macross Plus.

Sorry for the bad pictures. I really need to build a lightbox or something. The washing turned out a bit dirtier than I wanted it to be. I was also watching through Macross Plus to get the colors right, as the colors provided in the Hasegawa manual didn't seem right. Sadly, during build up the main body seams ripped open. It seems that due to sanding works they became a bit too thin...

Next Project:

My first Wave kit

So far everything fits nicely. No idea how to to the main engines exhaust yet. If I airbrush it before glueing it together I'll probably have some issues with color rubbing off during sanding. Maybe I have to tape everything first. I'll come up with something.