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Urashiman

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Everything posted by Urashiman

  1. I think there are VT-1's in stock at HLJ. They are harder to get by.
  2. Get a VT-1 and a VF-1 Gerwalk and mash 'em together
  3. Ah weird ... I haven't seen that. Thanks!
  4. where does it say that?
  5. no worries, silly wifes are the best! Watch out for the non-silly ones. They tells you to sell your stach or throw it out and want you to quit your hobby,
  6. I am only seeing this now, but the Luca fighter nose package design is very funny XD
  7. Thanks man! This is actually my second go at the X-29. I build one around 1999ish already. It got destroyed several times by my siblings and I had to glue to together again, but it never was the same again, as the glue I used yellowed in the sun, so the seams could be seen. The kit was a horrible build anyway, so I gave it to once of my nieces as she liked the plane. The one I build right now is my replacement.
  8. Okay ... I think I saved it. I spend an hour in PS, scanned the instructions, then I redrawed the GRUMMAN X-29 logo and tweaked here and there. Then I did the first testprint on standard 90g paper. The size is correct and it looks detailed enough. Time to rub off the old decal with solvent (IPA and decal softener). As good as new, I guess. Then I printed to the transfersheet and cutted out the decal, putting it into warm water to detach. Et voila! It worked! The gloss will be matching after coating the modelkit. MUAHAHAHAHAHAH!
  9. careful with the papercuts man
  10. No worries, I have decal transfer sheets for toner based printers. I’ll just scan it off the instructions and work it in PS then print it.
  11. @electric indigo that looks awesome. I‘ve been making progress on the X-29. I hate super large decals. If they didn’t came off the transfer sheet in some space they just rip apart. Got some cracks in this already, but was able to fix with tamiya mark fit super strong. Except for this piece of #$&@!? of a water decal. It just crumpled up under my thumb when applying decals to the other side. I either have to print a new one and apply that or will draw on the letters by hand. Not happy man! Absolutely not happy!
  12. Depends on the primer. If you use Tamiya spray can primer, just once will do. alclad primer can be okay after one coat. revell primer needs two coats. not sure about other primers.
  13. Nah, I left it untouched in the box.
  14. Some progress on the x-29. I airbrushed the black stuff on the nose and the engine exhaust. next step: decals :S after that, I‘ll apply a coat and do panel lining and weathering.
  15. I let I cure for 48 hours. I noticed, when doing it to short after applying the color or the coat, the color rubs off.
  16. I used humbrol satin coat. Didn’t rub off, and decals weren’t harmed.
  17. I just tried it with Mr.Color thinner. Seems to work without rubbing off the enamel color, so that would be my way to go from now on
  18. usually I use oil colors as well, and then rub it off with a cloth, dipped into turpentine. I have the tamiya panel line color now and look for ways to remove excess color.
  19. I was wondering - how do you wash off the "chicken pox"?
  20. @Bolt thanks! Here, the VF-1P, from one of my older renders: @Thom Thanks a lot! @arbit Correct. They were to thin the last time.
  21. I purchased the ABS like resin from Anycubic and made some test prints today. It smells a bit more than the eco resin (which is really low odor), and leaves a weird white residue in the print bed and on the print. Using Isopropanol, I was able to remove it, but still strange. it seems a bit more flexible, which is good. Here is a picture. from left to right: new VF-1P nose, work in progress old VF-1P fuselage, needs to be reworked to be thicker. new reworked VF-9 nose, done.
  22. Looks like a dragon ready to blast!
  23. Yeah, the one one the left is Hex Camo style, the one on the right looks more like flecktarn. Flecktarn is more like splattering drops onto your stuff.
  24. "Fleck Tarn" is used by the German army. Translates to "spot camoflage".
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