007-vf1

I think the show is pretty good. Although the computer motion looks somewhat archaic and we all know there's a lot better out there. the swinging and fighting action are pretty good. The colors and the sarcastic teenager attitude is what makes the cartton a well done product. Don't worry if you missed some chapters MacrossX, we all know it will eventually come out on DVD...

Robotech and Battletech aren't bad words here. Harmony Gold 'is'. Most of us got our bases with Macross thru Robotech, so we owe some background history to it.

Yeah, what the heck!!! we weant pics....

Booster packs and hip intakes; they make a big different, since they bring out the detail and cover some glued pieces that are a pain to putty and sand. ...but you could get away by using styrene pieces and save money. Then again, do you want to do the extra job??

Just in case you ever again encounter a problem like that one I have a suggestion. Grayson is correct on the pressure of the compressor/can being the cause that gave you that motted effect with huge dropplets on the model; It was way too low. The best way to fix it is stopping dead and adjust the air flow before messing the model further. But if you have that one type of paint already mixed and want to give it one last use before it dries out...and you are in a roll and don't wanna stop... here's my solution: -keep going. Yes, If you see that the panel lines aren't getting saturated with paint then you are still in luck. What you wanna do is over paint beyond the ridges of the pannel line ( #1 red arrow has a small area filled compared to the #2 arrow)and over paint around the whole area. keep moving the airbrush relatively fast to avoid blobs of paint. Let it dry. - Check the pressure and the airbrush; the motted affect could also be caused because the airway is clogged by dry paint. You'll have to practice the technique quickly somewhere else before aplaying it to the model just to make sure that is working properly. -What you'll do next is "fill" the area in between the panel lines with the base color you had or an even lighter color ( this is the MAX technique). This is a tedious technique that requires concentration, a good control of the finger, small strokes and also constant movement of the airbrush ( the nozzle has to be on a small aperture or fine line set). - I'll illustrate it on the pic. The trick is this, ( double action) start with a high air flow ( under 35 PSI) but don't let any paint spray out of the airbrush yet; get the nozzle close to the model 2-5 In. Then press softly (single-double) start pressing the trigger very slowly until you can see some specks of paint coming out just like in the motted effect that low pressure has. But since now we have a higher pressure rate as soon as you let that finger go it will splat the whole model and you'll get paint runs... This is where the good finger control comes in handy. So increase the finger pressure slowly until the area starts getting slighly saturated ( it only takes a mere second to spot this happening). Now you better start moving the whole airbrush around the area or you'll get splots and paint runs. Then follow the white and blue arrow patterns( suggested, but once you get practice you'll get a better way to apply the paint) starting on the middle/center and then working your way out towards the panels in an oval motion... Keep the airbrush moving fast enough so when you repaint over the area, the preceding pass has already dried. This technique doesn't required an specific air pressure since the mixing rates and paints might vary 25-35 PSI is a big range to chose from and still get good results. Is more like a hit-miss-hit crash-course way to get it done with the minimum chance of making mistakes. And how I got it in about 2 tries.

a "while" for me is about 3-5 months just to start building it... Unless all of the sudden I find it a priority.

Nice collection Chan. I could only find the VF1S on a reasonable price. Bought it just because I wanted a more accurate scale. Then I realized they are exactly the same size than the Yellow Sub. and imaii models, there's going to be some mods coming up on 1/144 scale.

I am wondering the same thing. There's a lot of us who purchased the Xerogravity kits. For my part I have both but I'll be a while before I get to work on them...

I am late to the party... HAPPY BIRTHDAY ROB!

My most precious macross possesions are ( because of the monetary investment and availability): -The Macross Gold book -My resin kit collection (G-Sys 1/48 ultimate VF-1J Strike; SDF-1, 2 modes; Yellow submarine kits all of the 1/144s) To me, everything Macross is precious otherwise I wouldn't be spending my paychecks on them.

So you mean something like this...Right!??

exactly my words... How about resizing the suckers down at least a little...at least that.

So they use red and blue VFs just like on the TV series...Oh well, is kind of late to paint the whole thing blue... Muito O brigado Abombz Thanks for the pics TWDC. I still don't see the squadron emblem though. any pics of that?

Ok; that wasn't exactly the Quead pic I wanted to show...but It will do for now...the other ones follows. Hold on..."replace with new attachment".. AWESOME!!! Thanks Shawn....

since I am 90% to be finished I wanted to let some of you who bought my and Mslz22 recast that I haven't abandoned you. I been working on this for the whole week since I stopped the project late this spring. I'll be done soon and I'll post step by step of how I build it (IF YOU WANT ME TO). Since I can never work on just 1 model at the time; I also have been working on the Hasegawa Gerwalk armor (the VF-1AG) I am currently stuck on the chest armor/ turret plates because I haven't figure what materials to use for it. Also I am working on the second version of the GBP armor for the hasegawa (since I used the old one for the VF-1AG) ...and Last; the 99% finished VF-4 lighting. Thanks to Valkyrie for the canopy... As usual your coments and input is highly appreciated.. without more ado some pics for you mates.

Like the topic question asks I am wondering about that since Hikaru went away to follow Misa's tail on the SDF towards the unknown, I wonder If Max ended up having his own squadron of VF-4's ? Was that the Dancing skulls or the Algenicus? any pics?

OK; French looks nice and interesting, thanks goodness I can understand the main idea of all what you are saying and all of the latin root words BUT!!, is awefully rude to use bandwich without translation to the rest of the masses...

The VF-0 is way bigger and heavier than the VF-1...agility is definitively a big plus for the VF-1

1/72= 3 1/60=3 1/48=1

Where's the Spartan?? after the monster is my fav... The Spartan It is the only mecha to achieve hand to hand combat and use hand weapons after a battroid; is slow but it makes it up with is missile load..

valkirie N- Why do you wish?? "Get a kit and get busy... There's only one way to get that good..better start now my friend.... - Sam they all look pretty neat. I am almost done with mine.. letting clear coat dry overnight and tomorrow is detailing and washing Since I sold several recast of the resin 1/72 scale to MW members; some people might be interested on seeing how did I do it. (first I have to wait to get my camera back)

YEAP!!! Sam that a lot better now..you're quick with the fixing I am working on mine as well in a 1/72 scale... a sneak pic.. -- --- Edit; PS. It's just an overall paint, Is still drying tonight. Tomorrow I'll spray clear coat on it and then to the details...How about some imput on mine?? Oh yes, that's real wire you see there in some parts...

Thanks Carl. I just read the message. I am sure Grayson72 would love one too. VF-17 -The old version from last year doesn't have the fast packs and that one might be very hard to come by, But there's a new version with fast packs from these guys, that like Tanmen, are almost impossible to get in touch with unless you speak Japanese. Carl has been trying to get in touch with them for a while and haven't been able to. My understanding is that they will make a kit for a buyer and we'll have to wait a couple of months to have them sent it to us ( just like Tanmen's ordeal?). I guess the sooner we make contact with one of these kit makers the bigger the chance to get our hands on one of the models...molds give up rather soon for these companies and seems some guys don't wanna make second runs. I heard the "beefsteak toe which stops putting together" is pretty dangerous news.....

I am waiting for the whole trilogy digitaly remastered with extra-new-featured-directors-cut's-cut and extra-extended-edition film version..... Until then I am just renting them; much cheaper. W end up buying 3 versions of the same movie?

I also have over 50 models that are still unbuilt. I go more by scale and by manufacture ( hasegawa is an instant hit). But when it comes to deciding which one will I get it comes down to accuracy and detail. For example; a 1/144 Exo squad toy defender againts a 1/144 Yellow Submarine. Anyone like me who loves modeling will tell you right away the YS wins a mile over the exo. But if the exo had more detail I would go for it instead. I collect 1/72's and 1/144's. I have every single VF variant and destroid except for the Monster 1/72 done to day made by one company or another. I got the entire line of 1/144 YS. on destroid and VF's (except for the battroid YF-19). I just never understood why would you have to have 5 1/72 battroids made by imaii, bandai, hasegawa and YS.? just choose a best couple of all of them and save the money for something else... So I guess I am not a completist, but a picky quality collector....??