007-vf1

I think is a neat idea...and what impresses me most is that I didn't know you could write/fill a page that long..

My only nitpick besides the paint is that the missiles protrusion on the upper chest would drastically limit the option of the optical devices to look to the sides. Only a tunneled straight view option; That wouldn't be good for combat...

this is the only surviving picture of about a year after they re-released..it's been a long time since then..they have been either sold out or destroyed by now...I do have a few still intact in their boxes tho..

the "big" 1/200 MKII is included

We need a bigger motivator..that picture doesn't say much....

What else are you cooking...?

Yeah, that commission job Mike is doing happens to be one of my all favorite spaceships. I am glad he's the one getting it done..

He might have to make a second run if the deal works well which means he'll delay the monster a bit longer. But He'll get back to it eventually since he's a big Macross fan... so, patience people..We all have to pay the mortgage...

been trawling the forums all afternoon, but can't seem to find any info on this.

were there any 1/60 VF-1S Strike kits that featured at least this level of detail on the fastpacks?

"At least this level of detail..." you won't find it in any toy for sure..but only in a Model; and even most of them have to be modified further to get something just close to that level of detail on the picture...you'd have to take a 1/60 apart and do some work on it..

There's a 1/72 Hasegawa model 'moded' just like the 1/48 Club-M..and this is how far he took it. One of its kind..

Hello everyone... Almost a month and a half since started and have a tiny update. I have the main side thrusters done and mildly detailed. The basic top command tower building its done and will need tweaking, putty filling, sanding, scribing and some more detailing.

My biggest problem now is that I don't know what to use for those main exhaust thrusters they are big and a handful . I have some Kotobukiya nozzle sets but they are too small. Any advise on what to use for replacement...? they have to be about 5/8 X 6/8 inch or 1.75 x 2 cm.

I was thinking on learning how to cast pieces...great !! now more work I can't hardly spent time doing..

now some pics...

Man; that thing is gorgeous....

Well, well one little update...

The front forks got finally done. biggest mishap was to have to increase the thickness of the platform since it was too thin. to fit the frontal "command" nose.. luckily the styrene wasn't glued tight shut so it took just a bit of a struggle. Now I can imagine how handy must be to have the machinery J. Moscato uses to get things done quickly.

Whoa!! I just looked in this tread today and found out some exciting news...

So when is this Robojox movie you all are talking about coming out..??

Yeah a N-Ger DYRL version would be a Grail kit to me. I am just guessing that in 1/72 it would be big, heavy, and costly..

the Q-raus between the 2 movies have slight differences, specially in the head and antennas. But nothing a little of "make up" painting couldn't do at that scale..

I also do prefer the DYRL version better..but I would surely not like a hybrid of them and rather have either one or the other on its original version...Long time ago in a galaxy....I did a hybrid using the bandai/144 scale conveting it to a DYRL version ..it looked more like a gudam mecha than a Macross one.

Also in case you didn't know there are different camo-painting schemes on each of the versions...

Man those pics are sweet...nice sculpting...I don't have many updates right now. I am working on the 4 front forks so until i finish them I'll have nothing new to post..

So by all means Warpaint feel free to hijack this tread..

I agree with other people..take this one slow...there's a lot of "underground" star wars models that I'd like to get my hands on...they are costly and they are coming out fast..

That's looking so good!! As I stated I'm also working on this scale with the Pometheus so I'll be casting valks in 1/700. I'm on the sculpting now so we'll see how they turn out and I'll post some pic's.

But great work it looks awesome!!

Many of us would like to see some pics of it....

How far are you done and where did you get the 1/700 valks from??

Update 8 -30

Finally...! I am slightly beyond the point I was before switching to styrene... After glued I realize I had to dismember the build in 2 parts to add more detail to the under structure. Good thing I weld the plastic lightly to see how it looks..

By the low detail pics available I had to create the end of the middle beam that connects to the long longitudinal rail and figure what exactly was. All i could come up with is a sort of viewing tower which hangs of the ceiling I added some clear styrene and sort of came up the way I wanted to and added some inner structure alike a command operation room..

If you see the detailed pic you can barely make it up except that it reflected the light of the room so might be easy to see what i was talking about...

Those tubular structures along the side walls were such a pain in the behind, I wish I had a better process to cut tubular styrene lengthwise...took forever to get it..

The pieces in the center back structure are loose hence they seem to be off alignment...

You know... I was thinking the same thing...is lacking something...and then I realize, panel lines...!!

Is probably the first one I have seen build up in the last 5 years..

Good job cooler

Buen trabajo...

well; small is just relative for example the amt millennium F. is the one with 40 to 80 parts model (not sure of this though)... same goes to the 1/200 Nichimos they are about 15-20 pieces a set..unlike the fine molds that's close to 900 so, no many parts to build in total...

Now, if all the models you have were like the new Gundam 1/60 and 1/100 with about 500 pieces each..that wouldn't be a little back log..it would be a land slide, a tsunami, a monsoon of models to build... that's not counting cleaning, putty and sanding time...

Nice collection by the way...

Dang, that styrene version looks tight already. What scale is it going to end up at so you can put little valks around it?

Dude...is on the title of this tread... 1/700..the imai's bug eye is 1/720, the other closest model ..but the yellow submarine Valhalla III is the ARMD scale; and already comes with its VFX game version valk fleet, perfect for the Armd..now I need someone to recast me a full squadron of them...

I am in...

I need a new job and to get a life...seriously...

{Dora cheer on} Go, john go......!! {Dora cheer off}

Well, I am sure any medium would work just fine if you put the effort on it. I just happen to know a bit more about Styrene and how far I can take it regarding strength and structure manipulation.. cardboard is pretty firm when thick otherwise the weight allows the model to bend and humidity sags it; It takes longer to dry after glued; is not a perfect cut unless is thin and when it is the strength you want it is not smooth enough... what i like about cardboard is that is simple and quick to work with..

Also I need several smooth round parts which would take forever to build in cardboard and rather use a plastic counterpart which wouldn't glue well to paper but it would to styrene.. Besides all this I really want to try modelers foam which i previously asked about regarding gluing it to other plastics which indeed works. If this all works out the way i want it my next project would be the Saratoga II or the Oberth on 1/700 scale (relatively simpler models except when it comes to rounds edges.. IMO)

I worked the styrene model to almost as far as I was done with the cardboard one, but this time took me roughly 6 hours since I already had the scale sized down... what slowed me down more is that I had to make up for the thickness of the model by building layers with plastruct rails, as you can see in the pics, tedious...

the club-M is definitively the DYRL version even on the pilot side. The mecha suit head, markings on the wrist and lower legs are the giveaway and Mirya is a bit more stylized on the club-M version; (actually close to the pic posted below). The seam lines on the recast don't fit perfectly so you'll need to putty and sand some; specially on the booster/ missile back pack. The heavy pieces like the legs,arms and back have to be pinned so when you attach them and glue them they can stand the weight.

Is a tedious work but the end can really surprise you, specially in a model on that size..

That's cool. I'm not sure what you can use to get the styrene to stick to it. I've used contact cement for paper to styrene (pattern cut outs). The glue just has to be dry or it'll attack the styrene. UHU makes styrene compatible craft glue. Good ole white glue doesn't stick well to styrene either. Once the panels are glued together it won't really matter though. Have fun! - MT

You know what..?? I didn't think of that. I have seen a few cardboard models lately and got me pumping. I didn't realize I'd be limited with that medium. I won't even be able to glue any putty on it and work some curvy and tubing elements that would become difficult on cardboard; let alone detail it the way I think I might be going to...and yes, although I used a combination of glues it didn't stick as strong as I wanted it to be.

I took your suggestion and ordered a few sheets. But I was looking into the .080" which is as thick as I'd like it to be and realized is quite pricey. So now I'll have to combine a thinner sheet and work more into the inner structures to keep it sturdy enough. That's what I liked about cardboard in the first place...it was sturdy enough, glued super fast and was way cheap to obtain... At least now I have a good template to cut the styrene pieces in and wont take me 15 or so hours to get to that point...

so the project is on hold until i get the new material...

Do you know how easy modeling foam bonds to styrene, and if it is easy to putty on??

Mech; yeah my idea is to plate it in styrene after I am done with it. the corrugated parts have to be hidden. I am building this model as a mechanical structure there are support pillars inside the hollow areas so is tedious...

Thanks for the tip on the big styrene sheet..

Any suggestions are appreciated

a little update I made 3 hours later

This looks to me like a hormonally enhanced Dinotopia..which by the looks of it might become a movie in a near future...

Is a second try-out to the mostly lame Godzilla..

I started this project a week or so ago and about 12 hours later this is how far I have got. Yeah is virtually not much but taking continue measurements and recalculate scales is a pain.

I am using a small scale print copy since I couldn't blow the original line-art bigger on a copy machine; and making a correct scale hand drawing with that many details would take me several hours that i rather spend building..