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mickyg

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Everything posted by mickyg

  1. I'm here to help. I don't think it's the fit of the radome, though. If you look at the pics (and your own Valk), you'll see the boundary of the black piece (on the radome) still lines up with the outside edge of the slot the anti glare panel fits in. I really do think it's the panel that's the problem.
  2. Annoying, ain't it?
  3. Hmmm... I'll have it apart again in the not too distant future and will see if I can figure out what it is that causes the misalignment. Still shaking my head that the piece is blue, painted black. But hey, we're all past that! Plus, it's an awesome piece of my collection, that I've been waiting to get for years. Not gonna knock it. Well, not too much...
  4. Anyone else having this problem with their renewal Valk: See how the black part of the white radome doesn't line up with the rest of the black part, ahead of the canopy? At first I thought it was the radome not clicking in straight, but there's no perceivable raised edge on one side compared to the other, so I know it's in and aligned straight. Upon closer inspection, you'll notice the black insert (call it the "anti-glare strip") is actually misaligned. There's a bigger gap on the left side, vs the right, which I think you can make out in the picture. Unfortunately, I've had this thing apart already and failed to see if there was anything I could file down to get it to fit better. Just curious if anyone else has notice this on their valks? And yes, that's purposely over-exposed so you can see what I'm attempting to point out.
  5. Looks very, VERY nice, MJ! Frames on sensor array and all. By the way, what are you using for top coat on that particular one? The sheen looks perfect and is slightly glossier than how your other Valks look. For the scale, I think dead flat can look too flat. This is just spot-on!
  6. And, if I that whole time travel thing from the Macross 30 game is anything to go by, perhaps Bandai could get licenses to every Valk era so far! I kid, I kid. But then again, who knows?...
  7. Wow! Anyone think that title means the YF-30 might get another run as an honest to goodness VF-30? Good news for the Macross saga!
  8. Very... Can't wait to hear a bit more when possible.
  9. I feel the need to point out that you might try testing the plastic first. Put a drop of whatever solvent you'll be using on the plastic somewhere inconspicuous. If it softens, discolors, or otherwise alters the plastic, well there's your answer. Rags soaked in solvent is a fire hazard and a half! Ever heard of spontaneous combustion? Any time that term has come up in the sense of a garage mishap, it's almost always got something to do with an old rag and some form of solvent. Be careful out there... But have fun, too.
  10. Wise words, Momar. Wise words indeed...
  11. It would benefit from some of the enhancements the v2 VF-1 series got, namely improved fit and finer panel lines. Throw some newer engineering that we've seen in toys of the last few years and it'd be a win, all around. I loved my Nora version and regret having parted with it years ago, even if it was a bit floppy for my liking. Saburo, your shots certainly do the SV-51 justice!
  12. Yeah, I was a zealous sharer of my journey. Times have changed a bit recently. Given my other thread where I'm asking for these though, I'm apparently a glutton for punishment!
  13. Its a LOOOOONG thread, but here ya go: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=30311&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1
  14. There were a few build threads a few years back. I did a lengthy one, WM Cheng did as well. There were others, as I recall too. The quick summary: built in one mode, they're very nice to look at. If you want to transform them, they're not worth the angst you'll experience. The long story: terrible decals. Very tight fitting parts. Assemblies that don't lend themselves to easy painting. Yeah, that's not a very long story... That said, they're a great static model that even when little paint work is done, can actually look pretty nice on a shelf. I'm after them because my frontier DX collection is small, and I don't have room or budget for the items I'd like (an armored and an RVF) and even if I could justify them, I doubt I'd want to transform them. So for me, the model kits make a lot of sense. Build them how I want and stick em on a stand.
  15. Now there's a hard to find item these days! Nice one!
  16. Try here: http://ekizo.mandarake.co.jp/shop/en/item_s-1680181.html Bear in mind, these are occasionally second hand items but often store front or damaged box items. Also worth noting, they tend to be a bit pricey for their shipping charges. Make sure you're aware of how much the kit weighs and factor in a fair bit for the shipping box, then use that weight to compare with their listing for shipping rates here: http://www.mandarake.co.jp/en/information/qa_hand.html They get cranky if you make an order, then discover shipping is too high after the fact. Otherwise, they're pretty easy to use and shipping to me in Australia was very quick: 1 week from the time I ordered to when it arrived.
  17. I can't see how it'd make much difference either way. Depends how minty fresh you want it to smell?
  18. It certainly is. Although I'd class it as a micro abrasive. It'll take a long time to smooth out really prominent irregularities. I'd use it more as a polish than a "smoother" - unless you use it on a polishing wheel or something.
  19. That makes two of us - been wondering the same thing. It looks good, proportion wise. And the price is right!
  20. Wow...
  21. Ditto. You had me worried there for a bit!
  22. I should have specified that as far as I know, Mr Leveling Thinner is a diluted lacquer thinner, with some retarding agents in it. So that being the case, I would expect you to be able to use Tamiya Lacquer thinner without any issues. I hear Tamiya Lacquer thinner is also more diluted than the stuff you'd get at a hardware store. I hear a lot of guys use Windex to thin Future as well, though it depends on what it is that requires future to be thinned in the first place. It's usually plenty thin as is.
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