mickyg
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Everything posted by mickyg
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C'mon people - buy Kurisama's stuff so he can.. Um.. Buy Kurisama's stuff. That looks awesome, mate. Very nice work!
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That's a very good point. Even the V2 VF-1 toys have an all metal (albeit painted) diecast ball, with a plastic insert into the socket for friction. Anyone have any issues with the hips on their VF-1 toys? I sure haven't heard about it. EDIT: I'm not entirely sure about that painted part. Maybe they left the ball unpainted?
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Easily one of my favourite buildups at the moment. Glad you're sharing your progress with us!
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On the topic of expensive toys and the ball joints they utilise, let me show everyone the ball joints on the recent Bandai VF-19Advance toy: And both halves of the socket: So it's the same familiar arrangement of a plastic cap on one hemisphere of the ball, contained within a metal socket. What I didn't photograph is the complicated arrangement of plastic end caps that hold the socket together, with the whole thing then held together with not one, but two screws. I don't think the half metal/half plastic design is the problem here. Just my two cents worth. By the way, I dismantled it for two reasons: I'm curious and like to take stuff apart The left leg on this thing is notoriously tight and I wanted to know why (I'm not sure I got my answer though as I couldn't find anything obvious except maybe that the plastic end cap on the ball was a slightly rough?)
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Wow. That last bit was cool too. I had no idea he spoke English. I'm all kinds of jealous now of his ability to speak Japanese. Looks like a great little toy!
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They're even the right colors! So bought! Who wants the CF, Kakizaki, trainer, and yellow ones though?
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Is this the resin one that had the cool little round base as well?
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Horrible? Bite your tongue, man! Have Glass is an awesomely dirty, beautiful thing! You're right though, I don't think paint of any type would preserve the stealthiness of the coating. I do wonder how they tinted it for the Vipers, given the look when new.
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Their later stuff is very good. By later, probably anything within the last 5 years or so. They make very nice things. Once upon a time, they used to be very affordably priced models as well, but lately, their stuff is just as expensive as many Japanese models like Hasegawa and Tamiya. When Academy started, they often used Hasegawa stuff as the basis, but would change things like offering recessed panel lines instead of raised. The Academy A-10 and Early F-16 kits are a good example here (in 1/72 at least). These kits look almost identical, except they had recessed panel lines. Which is generally a really good thing. The fit and decals on those kits wasn't great though (especially the decals - wow!). If you're into the F-35 or the F-4, their 1/72 F-35 and 1/48 F-4 are very nice kits. Also, their F/A-18 1/72 scale hornets are very nice. So are their 1/32 offerings.
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That, or Tenjin had a pre-production sample to illustrate from, and he noticed it immediately and made the best attempt at an illustration he had, with what he was provided with.
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I think the reasoning has something to do with the size of the alien threat that was found aboard the SDF-1 (or the nicely named "Alien Space Ship 1" as it was known after it crash landed). Make something to fight the big aliens in their own size. Thus the hight of the battroid mode is established. Transform said battroid and you get the fighter proportions. Of course that whole argument is stupid when you consider the Aliens (Zentradi) have their own mecha that absolutely dwarfs the battroid proportions of the VF-1. Honestly, in my mind, the VF-1 is small because it looks cool. And it's the first gen variable fighter and all the new tech allowed for everything to be made smaller? Really though, because it looks cool.
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Hmmm... Me thinks this would have come in handy for my NSAWC custom VF-1 Yamato kit a long, long time ago.
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So, so pretty Spanner! I'm kicking myself now that I couldn't find a way to justify the cost...
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Yeah, VF-1 sizes are close to an F-16 if you want a comparison.
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I read that as being polite. And not to paint too broad a stroke with my comments, it seems a common cultural trait as well. For those who live there, would that be accurate? By the way, the oddities in the text are only present in the article in the forums. If you go to the link on the home page, it's perfect.
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Thanks very much Renato! A fine bit of (very time consuming I'm sure) work! Can you tell me why there are so many weird characters in the piece? Is it just me or my browser? I'm seeing a lot of marks where there should be things like a question mark, or a quotation mark, or an apostrophe. I can read around it, of course.
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What was $300 last year is now almost $400 this year, due to the slumping Aussie dollar. So seeing things like this hurts even more.
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That finish looks satin here! Such a lovely tone in this photo, Saburo!
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The latest VF-19 from Bandai has a metal ball with a plastic tip, just like the Arcadia. And the socket is a two part metal deal.
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HH: Good to know. And definitely not doubting your experience. I can safely say the water based ones would dissolve much more than what you're describing, so perhaps there's something that weakens in the lacquer formulations, at least enough for it to make it easier for it to come off.
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HannouHeiki: Mr Color should not be soluble in alcohol, as it's a solvent (lacquer) based paint. Gunze Aqueous would be, which is their other paint line. However, I've been doing some reading up on old Gunze and it seems they've changed their bottle labels. It's always been GSI in some fashion, which I assumed was "Gunze Sangyo International" but perhaps that's not the case. Either way, there's some confusion on what you're getting and in some cases, it's not clear if it's water or lacquer based. It used to be "Mr Color" was lacquer and "Mr Hobby" was something else. Long story short, apparently the paint number is the dead giveaway. If it starts with an H, it's the water based one and should be, as you've noticed, soluble in alcohol. If it doesn't start with an H, it's lacquer based and should be quite safe to apply almost anything over, as long as it's cured and as long as it's not lacquer and applied to heavily. Hope that helps.
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Preach on brother! I did a paper on black holes in the 9th grade that I absolutely loved researching. My classmates, after I'd delivered said report (and yes, I had to present it in front of the class) were not quite so excited by it.
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Macross World Podcast - feedback & comments
mickyg replied to Tochiro's topic in Movies and TV Series
I did know this, actually. I need to go back and listen to that one. We'll have to do Melbourne next time. -
Macross World Podcast - feedback & comments
mickyg replied to Tochiro's topic in Movies and TV Series
Ah hah! Now we know your last name. ..let the stalking begin I'm enjoying my first listen to the podcast. Great to put voices to the names! Also, some great work on the content. When is this thing coming down under? -
Sildani, I noticed this on my Alto VF-25F actually. The nifty little gerwalk stabiliser bar thingo makes this about a thousand times worse. It pushes against the back half of the fuselage, which in turn pushes that whole mechanism down, dislodging the intakes. Or in the VF-27, the legs. Not using the brace/bar thing will likely help lots. The downside is that you don't get the wings and all the back stuff very sturdy.
