mickyg
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Everything posted by mickyg
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Sorry, I should have been more clear as well - I'm specifically talking about uneven droop not that there is droop. Anhedral is definitely supposed to be there. What I should have said is that there's only extra sprue marks on one side and it looks like more than enough to affect how that wing closes up against the hinge. But based on what others are saying, even when that's perfectly flush, it still seems the wing won't sit the same as the other side. Anyone tried to trim the two pegs that fit into the slots? Maybe they're just a touch too long on the wing with more droop.
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Nice! Roid's?
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Now this I might bite on!
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There's definitely some extra sprue junk on one wing hinge, when compared to the other. At least on my 31J I have. Given the rest of you guys have shaved all that stuff off and it's made no difference, I'd have to assume the ends of the wing parts don't actually sit right up against each other. If that's the case, the cutout in the main part of the wing is likely to be more to blame for the asymmetrical droop.
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Please post Bugs and Forum Feedback here
mickyg replied to Shawn's topic in MW Site News & Member Feedback
Now that's funny! By they way, got mine resolved. Seems to have been a caching, plus Google data optimisation routine in my Chrome browser issue. Everything loads and looks ok, now that I've turned the optimisation off. Only saved about 25% apparently anyway. -
Well that sucks... No idea what happened there but I'm with you vincemoto7 - he's always been a regular contributor here and I'm certainly puzzled.
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I see that now - apologies for any confusion my comments caused! I'm with B on this one - I still think all the tampo looks great and should be the new "standard" release in a lot of ways. 'Course that means that some folks might complain that it looks too busy... I guess variety and choice is something we shouldn't exactly complain about with these toys. For me though, I can't afford or justify the cost of the full tampo'd badboy. And that's coming from someone who spent countless days adding all sorts of water slide decals to my first Yamato 'valk. May he rest in piec... erm, B's display cabinet.
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Well now, this looks a bit familiar: Seen from "The War Zone" at thedrive.com
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Ditto with Seti. The fact that it's only on the painted surfaces suggests the adhesive reacted with the paint and that it's not actually left behind as much as it's "etched" the painted on parts. The toothpaste polish method is probably the safest way to try to deal with it.
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OK cool. I got confused because this is the premium finish thread. I was about to say Arcadia duped us all!
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That's not the premium finish though, right?
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Wow, that's crazy! The problem here is that everything that isn't white is paint. And from experience in intentionally stripping some of my Bandai valks, it's stuff that will dissolve with alcohol and/or ammonia based cleaners (like windex). Those also work well in getting rid of leftover adhesive. Can you see any bubbles on the white (unpainted) parts? If you're wanting to experiment a bit, you could try a cotton swab dipped in windex to see if that removes it on the plastic. If that works, you may be able to dilute the windex with water and very lightly rub the affected, painted areas to see if it'll come off. Be careful though, the paint is usually pretty thick on these toys but it's not consistent. Removing a layer may not be a problem but you don't want to go too deep. And definitely be cautious around the tampo markings, as they're a lot thinner and also paint (not decals).
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Sorry, I didn't explain that very well. Hasegawa and Bandai offer replacement parts services. You can order whole sprues for certain kits. The catch though, is that you have to be located in Japan. Neither company (as far as I'm aware) will ship outside Japan. So some of our members here were, for a time, offering this service to members of the forums. My suggestion was that you send a PM to Jefuemon to ask him if he's still offering this service to Macrossworld members and if so, what it's likely to cost for the sprue you need. He hasn't posted here in a while so it's possible this is no longer something he's willing to do. But it certainly doesn't hurt to ask. Hope that helps.
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I am amazed by how well the canopy in particular came out - I was sure you'd had to vacuform it or something. Very good to know. Been meaning to get into casting custom parts for years now and always afraid to take the plunge. Slow setting resin sounds like the perfect way to get into this craft. No pressure tanks or vacuum chambers to invest in right away, which makes it far cheaper to get into than having to purchase everything up front, only to find out what you make looks terrible or requires too much work to get it "right."
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You did, or an errant energy cannon blast did? That's some impressive, very realistic damage you've got there! Sorry, not actually able to offer any real help with replacement parts, unfortunately. I'm guessing you'd do well to hit up one of our residents in Japan for replacement parts. We've got quite a number of regular contributors here who live there. Perhaps start with Jefuemon? I know he was offering replacement part services for anyone needing Hasegawa parts for a while. Not sure if he's still doing that but perhaps send him a PM to find out?
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Please post Bugs and Forum Feedback here
mickyg replied to Shawn's topic in MW Site News & Member Feedback
Anyone else having extreme viewing issues on android phones? Here's what I'm getting the last 24 hours or so:
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Great tips Chrono! So I can safely assume that your mods don't affect transformation at all? I haven't dived into my kit yet so am unfamiliar with how these attach and what they do at this point.
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Fantastic work!
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They almost look like mold parting lines from the manufacturing of the pieces. They're in exactly the same place, at exactly the same angle.
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Exactly! I've got mine doing a "pass" but there's no way to do one of them inverted or even leaning them on their sides so they're canopy to canopy. Say what you will about the series, but I really liked that scene where the two ace pilots recognise one another, their canopies (and machines) passing within an impossibly small distance from each other. Slave IV, the 262 adapter is disappointing in how little it grips the valk. You're definitely not doing anything wrong. The 31 has a little "nub" on the front fingers that sort of engages the metal swingbar for the legs. It's a much more solid fit and I'd trust it to do about double the angle that the 262 is capable of. I think the 262 can do about 30 degrees on the included cradle without it falling out. Maybe...
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Man, Pengbuzz, the stuff you do with masking tape is just amazing! That pod is coming along very nicely. Can I suggest revisiting the top guns? They should be more turret like as one unit. Yours look a bit too much like the "front" guns, if that makes sense. I think they're meant to be some form of anti-aircraft guns, possibly even mounted on a swivel turret system so they're one unit (both guns pointing in the same direction, on the same mount).
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Just got my Ba version in and the stickers and decals actually look pretty good for a Bandai kit! I'm surprised. And the metallic sheen looks convincing too.
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Well this is very welcome news! And an Aussie as well? Nice!
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Very good insight. I was thinking it could be done in multiple parts to better deal with the sanding issues (the pink parts could be moulded to fit into the inside surface of the beam parts. But yes, if it's going to be that sort of money, there's not much point. Even if I could just get the front parts done (the handle and body of the gun is OK) it'd still likely cost more than it's worth...
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Anyone want to do a replacement VF-27 quantum beam gun? I warped mine terribly trying to fix a bit of a lean in hot water. Further attempts at fixing it resulted in some pretty terrible disfigurement. We could potentially fix some of the size issues while we're at it. I've always thought it a bit big. Not just in fighter mode but battroid too.
