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MacrossJunkie

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  1. MacrossJunkie

    DX VF-25G

    Is anyone still scanning HLJ for the 25G's availability? I stopped scanning about a week and a half ago (well, not stopped entirely, just stopped having it run all night). I've just assumed at this point that if they haven't opened up pre-orders by now when pretty much every other shop's pre-orders have come and gone, that they aren't planning to have any to sell.
  2. An interesting idea. Would that affect the durability or its ability to stick to the surface? I used dish soap back when I used the pro-modeller's wash, but that was just for panel lining so any effect the dish soap would have would not matter. In any case, it's a non-issue when I airbrush it on, but that idea may help anyone using a brush if someone is wanting to clear coat one of the Bandai DX's.
  3. Yeah, an airbrush isn't needed if one doesn't have access to one. I just prefer it since it's easier. Especially on the super glossy surfaces of the bandai valks. It's such a huge pain and highly frustring trying to brush on Future as it is has a tendency to pool up on that plastic they use. It's like trying to brush oil on a teflon coated frying pan. The YF-29 was the last time I tried it and it required the patience of a saint and many many many tries for me to get it to coat even a small area. I eventually did it, but that was the last time I would attempt that. Yamato valks are easy to brush it on. It just stays in place.
  4. The amount of the flat base added can affect how it feels. Also, how it's applied (with a brush vs an airbrush) can affect the feel as well. The lacquer based clear coats I tried using in the past always felt sticky to the touch even after months. With the Future floor polish, once it's properly dried, it doesn't feel sticky or crusty. With the flat coats, it just feels like how many matte surfaces feel. The gloss and semi-gloss coats still feel pretty slick and smooth. The number of coats you apply would obviously affect the thickness, but I've never had an issue with the clear coat getting in the way of joints.after spraying on 3 or 4 coats.
  5. Hmmm, actually, you're right. My bad. It had been a long time since I had looked at the piece and I was thinking there was another piece that attached. I had to take off the shoulder armor to verify.
  6. Only for Ozma's. Alto's was still the anime accurate purple.
  7. Actually, I haven't even touched the gunpod yet. It came that way out of the box.
  8. Finally got around to doing my Ozma VF-25S with a little more weathering and a flat coat.
  9. I use Future acrylic floor polish mixed with some Tamiya flat base. It's more durable than the garbage that Testors has available, non-toxic (still wear a breather and have good ventilation when spraying!), resistant to yellowing, and you just add in different amounts of the flat base to achieve how matte a coating you want. It also auto levels pretty well so you can brush it on if you can't spray with an airbrush. Adding none of the flat base will get you a super shiny gloss. A small amount will get you a semi-gloss finish. A large amount will get you a very matte finish. Too much and it turns white-ish when it dries. I went for very flat coat on the 17. It's more apparent in the fighter mode pics on the previous page.
  10. I really hope it isn't that much. Has anyone even seen a VF-4 with a gunpod? The same gunpod that the VF-1 uses is listed as optional armament, but where and how would it attach in fighter mode?
  11. Any plans to make replacements for the socket that the shoulder ball joint goes into? The part that's covered by the shoulder armor, I mean. The shoulder sockets on both arms of my VF-0A had disintegrated and no glue on earth could put it back together again.
  12. Great pics from Swoosh and ff95gj. I would have had mine by Friday, but the fedex guy came earlier than the tracking showed so I didn't have a signature to leave out for them. I think I'm going to borrow some gray "No Step" stickers from the VF-17's sticker sheet and add them to mine. They seem to have forgotten them on the toy, but at least they seem to have gotten everything else. Then again I might wait until I get the replacement wings that come with the armor set so I don't waste stickers.
  13. I just took inspiration in placement from the VF-171 line art and the real life F-117 and a little of my own judgment. You can find chromakey backdrops and such on Amazon.com. You could get a whole light tent kit from there for cheap. Adorama.com as well.
  14. I finished clear coating my 17S.
  15. Only minimally. Just markings for the landing gear doors. I try to trim the stickers as close to the edges as is practical with a pen knife. I got done with clear coating the the fighter mode and the legs. Now I just need to do hidden parts of the arms and parts of the chest area. Edit: bonus pic with the craptastic Bandai 1/65 VF-17S
  16. I have pics of it in this thread. I'm currently in the process of putting a flat coat on it so that it has more of a dull finish like the real world 117 and will be adding a little more weathering to it as well.
  17. Yes, well aside from HLJ, sourcing problems or not, I can't get replacement parts for Yamato valks either
  18. Anyway, back on topic. While I was looking for ideas for sticker placement on the 17, I found it interesting that while Kawamori took inspiration from the F-117 Nighthawk, Yamato did the same with some of their stickers as well. Unfortunately, some of the red wording doesn't show up well against the black plastic.
  19. Hopefully there's a lot of weight in the legs to counter the back heaviness of the battroid design. It looks like it would have a hard time standing with all that not only jutting out the back, but also being on the top. Beautiful piece though. I would love to get one for the fighter mode.
  20. Yeah, and what really sucks is all I need is a tiny little replacement piece to make it good as new, but there's no way for me to get it. I'd be willing to pay for all the costs in acquiring and shipping it, but it's neither Yamato's or AmiAmi's policy to support customers outside of Japan.
  21. Different? What do you mean? I'm using a black velvety type cloth that helps diffuse and absorb the light.
  22. It's the renewal version. Nope, just the standard stickers that the 17 comes with.
  23. Man, that sucks. It's stuff like this that has forced me to go with HLJ for any future Macross toy purchases. So many things can go wrong and only HLJ will support their customers (as far as I know. Feel free to correct me with additional vendors that will support their customers to the level that HLJ does, like sending you replacement parts and not forcing you to mail back the whole toy at your expense. The more choices we have, the better). AmiAmi has super prices, but you're screwed if you have anything wrong with the toy, even right out of the box.
  24. I got both the toy and the kit, but the kit has been sitting in my storage closet for months due to lack of time to even start on it. I mainly got the kit so I could have an easier time painting it and also have all the extras that Yamato screwed the toy buyers out of and wouldn't even make available separately. I need to get some tools to handle cutting the sprues and the photo-etch pieces too. When I find time to work on it, I think the kit will come out looking a lot better than the toy did.
  25. Maybe about 5 complete transformations from fighter to battroid while stickering mine and panel lining and taking photos, then left it in battroid mode for months. Quite frankly, I'm appalled at what Yamato thought would be a good way to attach the leg. One fragile looking plastic peg with a tiny screw in it to hold the weight of the valk up plus endure the stress of movement from transformations and posing. I'm surprised the other leg didn't fall off too or that it hasn't happened to other people. However, the plastic peg on the other leg looked completely fine so I'm guessing the right leg had some faulty plastic that just degraded and crumbled. Fortunately the 17S I recently acquired has metal bars holding which the legs are attached to so I don't expect them to just fall off over time. There seems to be a great deal more use of metal in key joints, which makes me more confident about it.
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