MacrossJunkie
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What in particular did you feel left a lot to be desired in battroid mode? Was it looseness of joints or locking mechanisms? I think the only two problems I could name off the top of my head that I experienced were relatively minor. The legs were really heavy so the joints felt too weak to hold the legs in position when on the stand and the clip that plugs in from the back that pretty much holds battroid mode together was weak on mine like the crotch lock in the version 1 DX VF-25s. Sculpt-wise, I thought it looked very good, being close to the rendered versions. I personally had more issues with the fighter mode like the large gap the head leaves as it sits higher above the legs instead of being up against them. Also, as Dobber said, the lower stabs not going low enough. When you attach the missile pods to the hardpoints, the backend of the pods are rubbing up against the top of the lower stabilizers. Plus, there were relatively large gaps in the shoulder assembly area that could have been tightened up a bit. Going back to the VF-4, what is the deal with Nippon Yassan and the prices? I'm not really sure how they're handling this. It sounds like you can send in payment anytime between now and before they plan on shipping out the toy. Is it best to just send in payment right before they are about to do shipping? If the price goes back up, do you pay the higher price again than if you send payment when it was cheapest or would they ask you to send additional money if you had sent payment at an earlier, cheaper time?
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Thanks! As far as why I use the gloss coats first, the weathering powder gets picked up a little too easily on the dull coats (can accidentally make the effect too heavy) and is a lot harder to clean off if you mess up due to the rougher surface. With the gloss coated surface, I feel it gives me more control and I can build it up in layers as needed and is a lot easier to clean up mistakes (I mess up a lot!). Like doing it once, sealing it in with a gloss coat, seeing how it looks and deciding where it needs more work, adding more, then sealing it in again. Rinse & repeat as needed. If done with the flat coats, multiple layers of that may end up making something too light/white-ish, while it's not a problem with just plain Future with no flat additives. It's certainly more work, but I think the end result is worth it. But that's just my personal preference and what I've learned through experimentation. If you're not having much luck getting the powders to stay on the gloss coating, try it with maybe a semi-gloss (some flat base added, should look a bit cloudy/foggy, but not milky) next so that it has some extra texture but still allow for additional layers as needed without adversely affecting the overall look too noticably. I'd probably try it on an old toy/model or piece of spare plastic first to see what works best for you. I'll have a look. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Haha, I think this entire site is bad for people's wallets in general, but I'm glad I could contribute in some small way It's very hard to get it to stick to the plastic that Bandai uses using the brush end of the applicator. You really have to coat it with Future or some other clear coat in order to be able to drybrush it on to any noticable degree. The foam applicator is easier to apply, but the effect is completely different from the brush. I tried making a video while I was doing the armor pieces to show how exactly I was doing the weathering, but the lighting in my study is too dim and it came out poorly. Plus I don't have any video editing software to cut and stitch together separate clips. I do have pics of my VF-11B (and C). I think I've slowly improved and discovered new ways to do things so my B isn't as good as it ought to be as it was from pretty early on. The weathering was done entirely with the foam applicator and my fingers. At the time, I didn't figure out how to use the brush side properly and was thinking what good is this? It wasn't even until this year when I discovered how to use it to good effect, so I'm a pretty slow learner Instead of trying to find where I posted it on the forums, it's probably easier to just click on the link in my sig which goes to my picasa gallery where I upload all my Macross toy photos to and where I link my pics from.
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Hah, good catch. It's just like when Bandai put the '004' on both shoulders for the version 1 DX RVF-25 instead of 'SMS' on the left shoulder because that was how some of the CG renders had it. I believe the no steps are a safety warning for the humans doing the maintenance on the plane rather than as a warning to not step there as to damage the aircraft. Those areas can move or shift which may cause someone to fall and injure themselves.
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I'm tempted to buy a glue gun and try this out myself. It seems like it would take a lot of practice. For the white smoke trails, is that just painted white or did you use a type of glue that is white instead of clear? Also, how strong are those thin strands? Would they break off easily if one accidentally bumps one of the pointy strands with a finger?
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If it weren't for the fact that the under wing details are different from the top, one might think that the pegs had dropped out and the wings fell off and in their haste to put it back together, accidentally put the wings on wrong. Also, shouldn't the wing lights or whatever the yellowish triangles are on the leading edge be white for the cf version?
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That was because people weren't looking very closely. It wasn't until it came out that others pointed out that the pre-release photos also showed signs of mismatched colors. Now it's something that people look for ever since. Whether it emphasizes the differences in shading or not, they all still showed a difference. It was only a matter of degree by which the photos made it apparent. Well in any case, we could debate about this back and forth forever and not reach an agreement or conclusion so let's just agree to disagree
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Wow, zoffy. Your missiles look fantastic. I think they look better than the launching missiles that came with the web exclusive version of the GBP-1S.
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That's quite possible. It could be something as simple as identical shoulders as the ones that come with the toy with the exception of a hole in the top to peg the armor attachment into, like the armor parts for the hip guns on the super and armor packs.
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Well, I wouldn't say it's impossible. I think the photo does give a pretty good idea. There's a color consistency evident in the two photos on this page that already show a marked improvement over the version 1. Looking at the legs of the version 1, the green on the hip/intake is different from the green on the thigh, which is different from the green on the kneecap, which is slightly different from the lower leg. It's got 4 shades of green going on there with three of them being pretty obvious as well as varying degrees of gloss finish. And that's viewing it with the naked eye. Photos tend to emphasize the differences even further. Compared to the pretty clear photo above, the leg looks pretty uniform in color and finish. The chest piece is even more vastly different in shade and texture.on the version 1. Once again the chest piece in the renewal appears to be consistent with the leg in color and finish. Even if the colors and finish were slightly off between the different parts in person, it's still already a great improvement over the version 1 if it can look like that in a photo. Also, the VF-25G renewal also was a huge improvement in the same regard over the version 1 where renewal looked pretty uniform all across the entire thing while the version 1 had 3 or 4 shades of blue and varying levels of gloss.
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I think I'm going to have a lot of sleepless nights hitting refresh. This is the part I dread most about Bandai's new MF releases.
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VF-25S renewal and version 1 together. More pics of the armored 25S here: http://www.macrosswo...dpost&p=1001338
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1/48+fp's, 1/60+fp's, 1/72, 1/2k, 1/3k,1/100 and now 1/144
MacrossJunkie replied to VF-18S Hornet's topic in Toys
Finally got around to taking more pics and transforming it into other modes. What a pain in the arse it was. It's just so bulky and hard to get your hands positioned right to move pieces into place. At least it wasn't falling to pieces during transformation like the version 1 was fond of doing. Edit: Added a couple more pics. One of them is a re-do of the first pic I took because I realized the neck was not extended properly. Added better lighting and slightly more weathering. -
From what I can tell in the pic, it looks like they did a much better job with the color matching of the greens this time around.
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Even though it's not 1/60 scale, I may still get one as I think it's unlikely they will make a 1/60 scale version of the red vajra.
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Awww... I was excited when I saw the thread title and was disappointed when I clicked. The old one still looks really chunky in battroid.
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So really, what people are saying is that, from Yamato's business perspective, they should produce far less quantity of each toy so that shortages occur and people will end up buying their stuff when it first comes out for fear of missing out later. I didn't really understand Bandai's reasoning for making amounts far short of apparent demand, but in light of this, it makes much more sense to me.
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First pic of my Armored VF-25S. More or less finished. Maybe needs some finishing touches here and there. Will take more later. Need sleep...
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Actually, (G1) Optimus did, or at least he did in the comics and the MP1 toy. It was just hidden behind the mouth plate. Personally, I'm a little disappointed that there's a face molded behind the visor instead of making a swappable one for people who want the face. This seems to me kind of a half assed solution that wouldn't satisfy either side.
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Thank you, Loop. That was extremely helpful. I looked back at the instruction sheet and saw that it was depicted after all, but I just had no idea what it was trying to tell me until after what you said. So essentially, I shouldn't bother with the full piece and just go with the adapter compatible piece if I don't want to keep swapping. I was working on the weathering for the armor parts and wasn't sure which one I should do. Now I know
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I have a question on the full armor that I'm hoping someone could answer for me since I couldn't find any illustrations in the manual regarding it. The full armor comes with two cover plates for the crotch area. One is thinner near the bottom with a section cut out of it compared to the other piece. What is the function of one over the other?
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I really hope they opt to do the tornado pack for the renewal 25F and G. I plan on leaving my F sans additional accessories, the S in full armor, the G with the tornado pack, and the RVF with the super pack (assuming they decide to make the RVF and super packs to go with it). Just so I can have one of each displayed.
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What's the release date for the armor/weapons pack again? Sometime in November?
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1/48+fp's, 1/60+fp's, 1/72, 1/2k, 1/3k,1/100 and now 1/144
MacrossJunkie replied to VF-18S Hornet's topic in Toys
Final spamming of pics from me playing around with poses and such for the 25G, I promise. I need to start working on Ozma's full armor pieces which have been sitting around languishing for many many weeks. My free time was taken up too much by Guild Wars 2 and Borderlands 2 that I pretty much forgot about it. -
Yeah, that's what I've been (accidentally) shooting in. I had set it to store in the the highest quality (14 bit depth) raw and the color space was set to adobe RGB. I'm actually not sure how I ended up in the Adobe RGB. I usually shoot in sRGB, I must have set it to that sometime and forgot. As I understand it, Adobe RGB is more useful for photos to be used in print while the sRGB color space is better for viewing on monitors and such. Strangely enough, it is the photos I shot in Adobe RGB that Lightroom completely screws up. For some reason, it automatically sets black levels to 5, contrast to 25, brightness to 50 and does some other weird settings, regardless of the photo. If I set those back to 0, the image still looks weird and about 2EV settings underexposed compared to how the photo should be.