MacrossJunkie
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The MQ came with them. I just had to paint them up a little bit. They're still out of scale with the Quarter as they're a bit too big.
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Well, I decided I would attempt to do this on the rest of the MQ. I had been thinking about doing it for a while since the images of the Quarter on the Macross Mecha Manual site, as well as the anime itself, showed similar panel lines in some scenes. I worked on the deck portion a bit more. I added more lines using a strip of masking tape as my guide. Then used the masking tape to fade the lines more by putting the sticky side down on top of the lines and peeling it off repeatedly. I lastly put a flat coat on it to further reduce the contrast and to remove the reflective graphite sheen that made the lines shiny in the light. I'll do the underside of the carrier deck next, then the gunship before moving on to the Quarter itself. I really don't know what I'm doing here, but I think the results are passable. Here's how the deck came out (the lines might be too subtle to see well with the 800px resolution. Click on image to see larger size):
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Didn't see any non-colorful erasers in local stores so I went and ordered some white eraser caps from Amazon. Hopefully they will work out.
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I love cap ships too. I really want Bandai to make Battle Frontier and/or Battle Galaxy. Those two ships looked pretty awesome and their carrier modes really look like carriers. Sort of like a further development of the Uraga class carriers (another design I like) and made transformable. I know there was some mention that a person at Yamato was tossing around the Battle 7 idea, but I really don't like that particular ship with its yellow, blue, white and red primary colors and that it looks like it has a big red "M" on its chest area. It just looks too corny. Going back to the Quarter, I was bored and decided to start drawing panel lines on the Quarter because it has such large open areas of no details or anything. It just looked so bland like that. I practiced on the flight deck. This is how it came out using a pencil. Trying to decide now if I should continue with this or abandon the idea.
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1/48+fp's, 1/60+fp's, 1/72, 1/2k, 1/3k,1/100 and now 1/144
MacrossJunkie replied to VF-18S Hornet's topic in Toys
That looks pretty good to me. I also like the flight deck you have as the display base. -
It's biomechanical. So... enemy biomecha?
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I pulled the tips off one of my stands. They come off pretty easily since they are placed on the rods just like the eraser heads. I also put one of the tips on the end of a pencil and it was about the right size so the standard eraser heads should fit over the acrylic rods pretty well.
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I suppose I could stop by an Office Depot sometime and see if they have a pack of eraser heads. I'm not home right now so I can't reference the stands. Are the silicone tips glued on or just fitted over the acrylic rods?
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I had no idea. That's boggling, but not surprising at this point. It feels like there was little rhyme or reason to Bandai's choices sometimes. The version 1's seemed like they were put together with parts outsourced from different factories using different plastics or in the case of renewal Ozma, parts were molded in one color and then entirely repainted with another color instead of just molding it in that color to begin with.
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Sorry. My immature side couldn't help but to chuckle because this was so dripping with innuendo.
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Fantastic! A good old fashioned ritual sacrifice. That should appease the toy gods.
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I'd be tempted to get a set. I would just be worried about the strength of the little pegs. I really hate the pvc head lasers as I can never lay them down flat in fighter mode because the pvc twists on the peg area and causes the gun to slowly rise up. It's the only real fail in the toy, considering that they made plastic head lasers for the version 1 armored VF-25S that came before this. They should have at least included a separate set of plastic ones like they did with the renewal VF-25S and G.
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Glad you finally got yours. I think they managed to get them to look even better than the models. They tend to be pretty oily out of the box. I just wipe it down with a wet paper towel which seems to work well enough to get all of the oily substance off. I didn't notice any extra oil coming from the stablizers, but yours might have gotten some extra trapped in the gun itself. You can at least pop off the back set of stabilizers and wipe those down. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it!
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Yamato 1:3000 SDF-1 Macross - unpainted model kit
MacrossJunkie replied to CF18's topic in The Workshop!
Hey Anubis, How did you get the Yamato pre-mixed paints? Was it through the proxy service in your sig? Also, how much did it end up costing you? -
That's all fine and dandy until someone plays music and makes it fall asleep.
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That's a nice looking VF-11C custom, Kurisama.
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Genius! That could probably work.
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I completely retract my suggestion to use plastic wrap if using the clear tipped stands. This is what happened on my VF-19S when I tried to move it and noticed it was sticking to the stand. Paint missing on the valk: Paint stuck to the tip: The chemicals in the clear tips seems to be seeping through the plastic wrap and reacting with the paint. Either that or somehow plastic wrap became sticky enough to tear paint off. However, I have the black tipped stands also wrapped in plastic wrap and have some clear coated valks sitting on them with no visible reaction or adverse effects. I also had my VF-17S sitting on a clear tipped stand with plastic wrap over the tips but no signs of it eating off the flat clear coat on it. I'm guessing one of two things: Chemicals inside the clear tips (they were washed thoroughly!) are seeping through the relatively porous plastic wrap material and affecting the yamato paints but not future clear coats or... Plastic wrap somehow has enough tack to pull off paint that Yamato uses but not enough to do the same to Future based clear coats. I'm thinking the former is more likely than the latter.
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As others have said, they only took the limbs off so they could more clearly show the transformation mechanisms without stuff being in the way. Just like what they sometimes do in the transformation manuals.
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Yeah, they've shown nothing that would necessitate "partsforming." Through all the various pics that have been posted in this thread at various angles, it's not hard to see how the transformation will work without removing limbs.
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What in particular did you feel left a lot to be desired in battroid mode? Was it looseness of joints or locking mechanisms? I think the only two problems I could name off the top of my head that I experienced were relatively minor. The legs were really heavy so the joints felt too weak to hold the legs in position when on the stand and the clip that plugs in from the back that pretty much holds battroid mode together was weak on mine like the crotch lock in the version 1 DX VF-25s. Sculpt-wise, I thought it looked very good, being close to the rendered versions. I personally had more issues with the fighter mode like the large gap the head leaves as it sits higher above the legs instead of being up against them. Also, as Dobber said, the lower stabs not going low enough. When you attach the missile pods to the hardpoints, the backend of the pods are rubbing up against the top of the lower stabilizers. Plus, there were relatively large gaps in the shoulder assembly area that could have been tightened up a bit. Going back to the VF-4, what is the deal with Nippon Yassan and the prices? I'm not really sure how they're handling this. It sounds like you can send in payment anytime between now and before they plan on shipping out the toy. Is it best to just send in payment right before they are about to do shipping? If the price goes back up, do you pay the higher price again than if you send payment when it was cheapest or would they ask you to send additional money if you had sent payment at an earlier, cheaper time?
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Thanks! As far as why I use the gloss coats first, the weathering powder gets picked up a little too easily on the dull coats (can accidentally make the effect too heavy) and is a lot harder to clean off if you mess up due to the rougher surface. With the gloss coated surface, I feel it gives me more control and I can build it up in layers as needed and is a lot easier to clean up mistakes (I mess up a lot!). Like doing it once, sealing it in with a gloss coat, seeing how it looks and deciding where it needs more work, adding more, then sealing it in again. Rinse & repeat as needed. If done with the flat coats, multiple layers of that may end up making something too light/white-ish, while it's not a problem with just plain Future with no flat additives. It's certainly more work, but I think the end result is worth it. But that's just my personal preference and what I've learned through experimentation. If you're not having much luck getting the powders to stay on the gloss coating, try it with maybe a semi-gloss (some flat base added, should look a bit cloudy/foggy, but not milky) next so that it has some extra texture but still allow for additional layers as needed without adversely affecting the overall look too noticably. I'd probably try it on an old toy/model or piece of spare plastic first to see what works best for you. I'll have a look. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Haha, I think this entire site is bad for people's wallets in general, but I'm glad I could contribute in some small way It's very hard to get it to stick to the plastic that Bandai uses using the brush end of the applicator. You really have to coat it with Future or some other clear coat in order to be able to drybrush it on to any noticable degree. The foam applicator is easier to apply, but the effect is completely different from the brush. I tried making a video while I was doing the armor pieces to show how exactly I was doing the weathering, but the lighting in my study is too dim and it came out poorly. Plus I don't have any video editing software to cut and stitch together separate clips. I do have pics of my VF-11B (and C). I think I've slowly improved and discovered new ways to do things so my B isn't as good as it ought to be as it was from pretty early on. The weathering was done entirely with the foam applicator and my fingers. At the time, I didn't figure out how to use the brush side properly and was thinking what good is this? It wasn't even until this year when I discovered how to use it to good effect, so I'm a pretty slow learner Instead of trying to find where I posted it on the forums, it's probably easier to just click on the link in my sig which goes to my picasa gallery where I upload all my Macross toy photos to and where I link my pics from.
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Hah, good catch. It's just like when Bandai put the '004' on both shoulders for the version 1 DX RVF-25 instead of 'SMS' on the left shoulder because that was how some of the CG renders had it. I believe the no steps are a safety warning for the humans doing the maintenance on the plane rather than as a warning to not step there as to damage the aircraft. Those areas can move or shift which may cause someone to fall and injure themselves.
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I'm tempted to buy a glue gun and try this out myself. It seems like it would take a lot of practice. For the white smoke trails, is that just painted white or did you use a type of glue that is white instead of clear? Also, how strong are those thin strands? Would they break off easily if one accidentally bumps one of the pointy strands with a finger?
