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MacrossJunkie

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  1. MacrossJunkie
    What I did was use an xacto knife to pry and lift one side off the peg and then pull and twist it off. Then I just filed the pegs on both sides of the arms down to be more like a steep ramp so that for all subsequent times, it would be much easier to take off while still able to hold the arm packs on with no looseness (about as well as the normal super packs which I have no trouble taking on and off compared to these).
  2. MacrossJunkie
    Here's my 2 cents. Pretty much anything you can do on a model like the Hasegawas, you can do on a Yamato or Bandai toy. The toy materials tend to be more durable as well. The downside is you'll need to figure out how to disassemble enough of the toy for painting or just find a way to work around that. As far as panel lining goes, I believe wm cheng uses an oil wash. I say it really comes down to personal preference. I've tried a bunch of methods for panel lining and never really settled on a single method, instead using a mix of different methods based on the situation. My general view of some of these methods: Fine-tip Gundam Marker: Easy and fast to do. Least desirable result due to heaviness and thickness of lines compared to other methods, especially on light colored surfaces. Can stain painted areas or plastics making screw ups potentially hard to fix. Pencil: Easiest and fastest to do and simple to fix mistakes. Too shiny if not flat coated. Looks better on grayish or darker colors. Terrible looking on white. Pro Modellers weathering wash: Possibly one of the most difficult to apply and time consuming. Rubs off too easily while in the process of applying it. Decent look, but can be a bit splotchy. Works better when the panel lines are deep and fine and you add something to break the surface tension of the liquid like dish soap. Non-toxic and no harmful fumes which is nice. Easy to fix mistakes with soap and water. Enamel paint + thinner: Very low surface tension which makes for good capillary action meaning potentially less work for you. Harmful fumes from the thinner and need good ventilation. Easy to pick a color to panel line with to fit the subject. Should wipe off cleanly with thinner. Can be a bit sticky when it dries on surfaces if not cleaned off. Looks very good. Artist oil paint + mineral spirits or turpenoid: Seems very similar to the enamel paint option in application and results. Doesn't have the stickiness of the enamel option. Fumes can be harmful as well, even if odorless. Easier to wipe off than enamel which is a bit bad in this case since I've been able to completely and accidentally rub it off with just fingers while holding it trying to apply to other areas, forcing me to clear coat as I complete sections. Personally, I do either enamel or oil wash option for the majority and sometimes small areas are judiciously done with pencil or gundam marker when the situation calls for it.
  3. MacrossJunkie
    The back end of the adapter rubs against the yellow painted area, at least for mine. It's not a very tight fit and the weight of the valk in fighter mode ends up causing the yellow painted area to support the weight against the edge of the adapter piece.
  4. MacrossJunkie
    I think I'll just take a gamble and wait for hlj and see if I can grab one from them at some point. CDJapan still had it available when I looked, but I didn't like the price and I never ordered anything from them before.
  5. MacrossJunkie
    The fighter mode stand adapter is also complete garbage. Not only is it very tenuous while on a stand due to it being so far off from center of gravity and being very back heavy, the adapter piece also scratched off some yellow on the crotch piece from my 19S.
  6. MacrossJunkie
    And that right there is the issue. Even if you didn't need an opaque white font, many decals are only really usable on non-light colored/non-white backgrounds if they have a white underlayer as well or else the color of the paint or plastic underneath shows right through and changes the color of the decal or just makes it hard to see. And since the pilot names often go on the black border of the canopy, not being able to print white is a deal breaker.
  7. MacrossJunkie
    I think that would be a great idea. I've had to leave some blank like the VF-11C and VF-4 because they didn't have any non main character names. Even some oft used generic ones, like Lt. Warmaker, would be fine.
  8. MacrossJunkie
    I don't think you have enough Rei Ayanami's.
  9. MacrossJunkie
    I've had pretty decent results using Polly S Easy Lift Off, like this. I got some from a hobby store some years back to remove some tampo printed color from a 1/48 VF-1. I tried soaking stuff in windex before that and it did absolutely squat.
  10. MacrossJunkie
    You are truly a patient man. I would probably accidentally keep rubbing it off in different places while I tried to panel line the entire thing with the pro modelers wash due to the shallow panel lines. I bet there was a lot of going back and redoing areas that you had done before in those 6 hours. I couldn't even get my usual combo of thinner + enamel to do the capillary effect on these lines, much less the pro modelers. Initial testing with oil paint + turpenoid was pretty good as it flowed right through the lines so I'm definitely going with that option.
  11. MacrossJunkie
    Do share when you get that done. I'd like to see. I've found it a pain to use it when the panel lines are really shallow. I got mine all stickered up and put a gloss coat on it. I was planning to do an oil wash on my VF-4 and SDF-1 today, but the black oil paint I ordered hasn't arrived. So much for Amazon Prime 2 day shipping Nice. You did a pretty good job modding the head so far. From the line art, it seems like the head laser is near identical in shape to the YF-21's.
  12. MacrossJunkie

    DX VF-25G

    MacrossJunkie replied to zulu's topic in Toys

    The all gray color scheme looks very good. Did you get the skull emblem from the VF-25 model?
  13. MacrossJunkie
    So just how hard is it to transform the 171 with the gun and missile pod attached to the arms? Do they get in the way a lot?
  14. MacrossJunkie
    Just one for the panels. Then there was a separate small one for the small red markings and then there was the decal sheet that came with the kit.
  15. MacrossJunkie
    Thanks Benson. I'm nearly there. I snap fitted all the pieces together to make sure there weren't any more surprises as I close in on the finish line. Everything seems to be acceptable at this point. The right arm's articulation seems a little jerky as it get caught on a piece that the left side does, despite it being put together the same way. I even disassembled it and reassembled several times and tried to figure out why it was doing that. No luck. I can live with it though. I added the little PE parts to the ARMDs and tips of the main cannons, however I think I'm not cut out for having those things there because I'm such a klutz. I keep knocking those things off even though I super glued them on. It's just that the super glue doesn't seem to adhere to the photo-etch metal very well. Here are some pics of the main body. I'm letting the center torso area dry at the moment after putting another clear coat on. After this, I need to do a wash, but I have to wait until my black oil paint arrives. The burnt umber I have is too brown and wasn't as dark as I was expecting it to be. I also need to paint the bridge and detail it. Then I plan on clear coating and adding the glow in the dark stickers all over. Finally a flat coat, then add in the finishing details like painting the lights and such. I also plan on painting the alternate destroyed main cannon parts. So I can swap as desired.
  16. MacrossJunkie
    Yeah, I was speaking of the DYRL versions also. The one I have just looks like it has a greenish tint to them, but not as much as the 1/48 versions. Maybe it's just the lighting in this room.
  17. MacrossJunkie
    Mine has been sitting outside my door all day and I didn't even know. I checked tracking today and it said delivered. I was like, wait... what?! Opened my front door and there it was. I guess the postman didn't care about the proof of delivery signature this time. Overall I'm pretty pleased with it. There's just one thing that bothers me besides the missiles falling off with any provocation. Are the arms not supposed to lock in place on the slider? Mine just slide back and forth and flop around on the slider from the elbow area. I thought if I pulled it out far enough that it would click and lock like the VF-19's forearms. That didn't happen. All I managed to do was pull the forearm clean off. I just can't find any way to get the forearm to lock in place and it's really annoying me.
  18. MacrossJunkie
    I've always thought they should have been a bit more on the bluish side rather than greenish for both the 1/48 and 1/60 versions.
  19. MacrossJunkie
    With the flash, it also looks like the cherry on top is lit up like Rudolph's nose
  20. MacrossJunkie
    Come on people. Let's see some pics of the 17D already
  21. MacrossJunkie
    Has anyone else who built this had issues with the various mechanisms on this thing? This has been a lot more work than I thought. Somehow it just doesn't fit together well or something. I've been having to sand, file, glue and carve away plastic just to get things to fit or work. Often times I've had to disassemble entire sections again because a joint was too stuck or too loose. Some holes have been too big for the screw and so were useless. Particularly when it came to putting screws into the diecast areas. Oh well. If I don't run into more issues, I might be able to finish this up soon. I'll take some progress pics soon. Just venting because this has been frustrating for me which came as a surprise since the toy version had none of these issues and I doubt they had the factory workers filing/sanding pieces just to get them to fit or move.
  22. MacrossJunkie
    It also happens with the gunpod for the VF-11C. No amount of fiddling with arm positioning allows the the gunpod to be parallel. It just veers way off to the side. Doesn't with the 11B's gunpod because it attaches at two points which helps to keep it straight.
  23. MacrossJunkie
    Man, I hope I get mine soon. These pics are killing me. I keep going back and forth on if I should paint it to be like the FB 2012 version or not.
  24. MacrossJunkie
    That's a little disappointing to hear about the loose thigh armor. At least it still looks pretty good. I can't wait to get mine.
  25. MacrossJunkie
    Finally, I feel vindicated after I and some others saw the Kai face molded in the visor and got mocked for it and told they were just the cameras. Thanks, Eugimon.
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