MacrossJunkie
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Everything posted by MacrossJunkie
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Yeah. I've read that you shouldn't ever soak AB parts in any sort of solvents or solutions anyway, not just ammonia. A few of the reasons were that the paint could be get dissolved then redeposited in other parts of the airbrush, particularly difficult to clean out would be the air valve if it got in there. The paint could also crystallize in those areas and further make it more difficult. Lubricants could get stripped away (not as big a problem since you can buy AB lubricant and should try to lubricate it now and then anyway). Lastly it could ruin the rubber sealing o-rings or the needle packing ring, either swelling or dissolving or making them brittle. How you're cleaning it now seems fine with backflushing and cleaning the needle and such with the tamiya AB cleaner.
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What is the most that you've spent on one single toy/model kit?
MacrossJunkie replied to Gakken85's topic in Toys
Well, my car is the biggest toy I own and I paid over $31k in cash for that. What? It's fun to drive If we're talking non-functional toys, it's probably either the assembled version of the 1/3000 SDF-1 or the VF-4G after shipping is calculated in for both. It's hard to tell because the invoice for the sdf-1 was in yen and the invoice for the vf-4 was in USD. I don't recall what the exchange rate was at the time the SDF-1 was released. -
Yeah, rather than pointing straight down. You can pop the crotch part out to angle it out and it will give the legs more clearance as well since the canards are kinda in the way otherwise.
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You'll want to be careful with using ammonia with your airbrush. If it has brass parts or chrome plating, the ammonia can corrode the brass or ruin the chrome plating. A quick search on Google tells me methylated spirits should work.
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Oh wow! That is a very sweet hangar diorama. The lit monitors and other details are a nice touch.
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Is there any sort of existing colored line art pics of the standard 171 with the armor on? Like from some issue of Macross Chronicles or something. It's hard for me to tell how light the shade of gray should be from the movie scenes. I think I plan on repainting the ones I get. I'll probably just end up taking some pics with them on and then leave them off forever
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Sorry, I missed that. I would have thought it would be a pretty common item. How about vodka?
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I suppose I could give that a try. I'm not clear on how I would mold it to the right size and shape evenly though. Maybe if I tried to make a mold of a good piece with the putty, grease up the "mold", then pressing putty into that mold and then insert a screw for the screw hole? Can that be done with this type of epoxy putty? I'm still trying to figure out how to get the intake cover off so that the piece can be removed. I've got no idea how it's even attached.
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I use plain old 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol to flush and clean out acrylics out of my airbrush (a Badger Renegade Velocity). Paint generally comes right out and the alcohol easily takes off dried on paint just rubbing your finger on the paint and the alcohol doesn't leave any residue behind. I also use one of these things, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VADIVC/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1, to spray into and hold my airbrush.
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I'd bet you'd be surprised then if I told you I'm not really a modeler and far from an expert. I'm pretty much a newbie with regards to building and putting together kits. I mainly just learned to paint, panel line, weather, and clear coat my valks. My SDF-1 was the first kit I've officially assembled and completed myself. I have some modelling putty, but it seems to be more for filling in gaps and seam lines and painting over it. It seems too brittle to use as a molded structure though and I would trust using that as much as I would trust using drywall for the same purpose. I don't know what other kinds of modeling putty is out there though. I disassembled the legs on my 19F first to check on the plastic to make sure it wasn't crumbling and second to see if I could get the relevant piece off. I got all the screw out and the small part with the metal pin that the gerwalk joint relies on, but it seems to also be attached to the intake cover and I can't figure out how to pull the intake cover off. Anyone know how to get the intake cover off? It's the last piece that's preventing me from removing the part that's responsible for attaching the leg to the hip piece.
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Yamato 1:3000 SDF-1 Macross - unpainted model kit
MacrossJunkie replied to CF18's topic in The Workshop!
Just random placement as you like. You can just use mine as a general reference for placement of those stickers if you don't want to spend time figuring out good places to put them. -
I don't know. Would modelling putty have the strength needed? I would have thought it would be too weak to be used in that regard.
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A few joints like in the shoulders and elbows on mine had gotten a bit loose, but I was able to re-tighten the screws on them to improve it to an acceptable degree. At least I can have it displayed in storm attack mode with the gunship and carrier deck sections lifted up without needing to resort to using stands to keep them up. It doesn't look like it would be too hard to take it apart to apply super glue to tighten joints if so needed.
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Argh, I was going to pass on this, but now I'm considering it just to get the hardpointed wings and MDE bombs. I don't even want the armor or plan to use it.
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You can refer to my post linked below for more details and some pics. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35341&p=976924
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The joint on the right leg of my 19S that lets the legs swing out for an A-stance in battroid disintegrated into little crumbly bits. I'm honestly surprised it hasn't happened to anyone else. Even if it hadn't disintegrated not long after I got it, I wouldn't have been surprised if it had snapped under normal use instead of just being displayed in battroid mode. I don't really know how Yamato expected a small, thin hollow plastic rod to tolerate the stresses it undergoes when you move the legs around. I handle the legs on my F and P very gingerly now and only move the legs while holding the intake section and the back piece that connects the leg between my fingers and just hope the rods keeping the legs on on those don't also disintegrate. I need to learn how to make a replacement part in shapeways or something so my 19S can be useable in battroid mode again.
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I agree. It's a wonderful looking toy in storm attack mode. Although I think it looks a bit silly in cruiser mode. I much prefer the Macross and the NMC's in their respective ship modes. It does look a little plain out of the box though as it seems to be missing some paint application. I had to add some paint touch ups to mine to make it more outstanding. It is and it comes with stands to support it in that mode if I recall.
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Actually, I'd say the cutting and assembling is easy. It's planning out the best way to paint them as well as all the masking that's the hardest/most work.
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In my own personal experience with those, they are pretty rubbish also. The non-ratcheted joint is pretty loose and no matter how well I balanced even a VF-1 on them, I'd eventually find that the stand had dumped it from the shelf onto the floor a day or so later. I got so frustrated, I smashed one of them. After being less pissed, I super glued the joint on the other permanently into one fixed position. Depending on what you want to put on a stand, I would probably recommend getting one of those Bandai action base 1 stands and get some adapters from Exo's Shapeways store or search around for the original flexidisplay stands with the black rubber tips. I've had clear coated valks sitting on them for months without the slightest hint of a blemish. I wish they still made them like they used to. Aside from the superior tips, the base was a solid piece of acrylic and heavier and thus more stable and not so prone to cracking like the newer versions do.
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Odd. I went back to try to find it and couldn't. Perhaps they changed it, but a few months back (perhaps in November?) I wanted to cancel a pre-order, and checked their site to see if they allowed it or not. I think it was in the terms and conditions that they stated the penalty for cancelling a preorder or failing to pay for an order when it was due would cause all your existing preorders to be cancelled as well. It stated it pretty clearly, but now I can't find it so they may be more lenient on it now. In any case, it caused me to keep my pre-order since I also had the yf-29 super pack preordered and didn't want to lose that. I can't even find anything about cancelling orders at all now or perhaps it's just because I'm tired and I might be overlooking it somewhere. But if they allowed you to cancel and re-order, that seems a pretty definite confirmation that they are allowing it now.
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I heard alert box on my browser ding just as I was getting into bed. Good thing I decided to keep my laptop on. Finally secured one.
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NY says that if you cancel an order they will cancel all your other existing pre-orders too.
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I think you a word. If you're asking if they will fit, lorn_13 had managed to make them fit, but not without making modifications to the Tornado pack, I believe. Edit: Here's his explanation how he did it: http://gbmshop.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-equip-tornado-pack-ver1-on-vf.html
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Wow, that sounds really backwards and nonsensical the way they do that. Oh well, good to know.
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Macross Collectibles Market Watch - Current Auction/Store SOLD prices
MacrossJunkie replied to jvmacross's topic in Toys
That's actually not too bad a price considering I paid 26790 to AmiAmi when the toy version first came out. I really regret getting it since the kit version was nearly half the price and came with much more.