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MacrossJunkie

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Everything posted by MacrossJunkie

  1. Yeah, I didn't understand the logic behind using HDP instead of the ABS they normally use on everything else. I'm sure that added quite a bit to the price of the kit.
  2. I would pay up front for it also. I missed out on it because at the time it was being sold, currency conversion was horrid and would have made it over $500 to purchase. I just couldn't fit it in my budget because I had other expenses as well and it didn't stick around at places like HLJ very long.
  3. nooooo... *sad*
  4. One of these days I need to remember to take more pics as I go. I've done explanations of my process several times in the past, but it would probably be easier to visualize if they were accompanied with pics for illustration.
  5. Finished! The rest of the pics are here: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&p=1096450
  6. You have some of the best 1/48 VF-1 customs, g3173. I'll never get tired of looking at those. On another note, I finished up my YF-29 Isamu version. Here is the end result. Click for full size version of pic. Fighter: GERWALK: Battroid:
  7. Very nice, clean build, Ignacio. I hope Arcadia retained the molds for this and makes another batch sometime.
  8. I tie two pieces of line to the horizontal metal rods that hold up the glass shelves and place the valk on top of the two lines. I can tighten up or gain more slack by sliding the ends further to the front or more to the back. The filament is rated to hold 60lbs also so I have no worries about it holding up the weight of a valkyrie. Here are a couple closeups. There's no looping the lines through anything. I can just pick them up or put them back very easily.
  9. Thanks. I figured it helped to emphasize that they were display pieces rather than merely a collection of toys. I have to make some new ones for my more recent purchases still. I used clear monofilament fishing wire. Yeah... it won't fit. At least not without displacing 2 or three other things. Maybe when I am able to get another case.
  10. Roughly 3 weeks or so. The fastest I've ever gotten something via SAL was a little over 1 week, but that was a fluke. There could also be additional delays due to the time it shipped (busy holiday time) and severe weather.
  11. Nothing, it was just something I noticed while comparing. But since the arms are in the way, the old fold booster adapters probably won't fit since they clip over the angled part of the shield where the arms stick out, also the fighter mode shield is much thinner.
  12. I guess this thread is mostly concerning the prices of Arcadia/Yamato? Those I can see as getting a bit out of hand and out of reach for more and more people, but the Bandai stuff has been pretty decent price-wise. Most of their releases have been below $200, even after shipping.
  13. I just noticed something while comparing to the old 1/60 YF-19 to see if there was a chance that the original fold booster would fit with the old attachments. The corner of the arms stick out from under the shield. It wasn't the case with the VF-19s because their shields were more rectangular, but with the YF-19's shield shape, it doesn't cover the arms completely. It's not so obvious from Mr. K's pic, but much more visible in the pics Reïvaj posted a number of pages back. I don't know of anyone has already mentioned it or not. I didn't really follow this thread too much and skimmed through the pages when checking now and then.
  14. Thanks guys. It was definitely more effort than usual having to take it apart and redo the canopy and fold quartz, but it was worth the effort as I'm definitely much more satisfied with how it looks now compared to the heavy blue tinting they used. GU-11, actually the weathering didn't do double duty as panel lining. I penciled in the panel lines prior to weathering. I also lightly dusted some white powder from the tamiya weathering kit into the black painted areas so that the panel lines there would be more visible without being too obvious about it. The weathering itself was airbrushed on using very thinned out smoke colored clear paint.
  15. Quick teaser pic of my progress. Still need to do the gun and also make some finishing touches on the weathering. Sorry about the craptastic pic. I had put away my photography setup during the holidays, so I need to take all that back out and set it up again. I just set it on the floor with the bluish LED lighting from the case to illuminate it. I had to heavily compensate for the color of the lighting and a lot of details were washed out as well. I'll do my usual proper pics soon once I'm done with this.
  16. I went to Ikea yesterday to get another Detolf because I can't even fit all my 1/60's inside the display cases anymore, but they were out and weren't getting more until April. Grrrr... So I decided to at least get some lighting. Got some of the Dioder light strips... what a let down that was. I tried setting it up when I got home and found that the cables for the light strips are less than half the length that they used to be. You can't use them to properly light up the Detolf display cases anymore because the cables are no longer long enough to reach all the shelves. I tried instead using one unit to light the top shelf, and then another to light the third shelf down. This is not in final state as I need to decide if I want to keep it like this and if so, try to manage the cords a bit better.
  17. Nice job! I like the repainted color of the armor. You did a pretty good job with masking off the areas around the yellow for painting too.
  18. Cool pic. Looks like they goofed a little on the paint scheme there on Isamu's 29. Just above the LERX, they left the black stripes that are on Alto's and the 30th anniversary 29s. I actually kinda like that though.
  19. I think the feet and other grays will end up being properly colored when better pics are taken, but the canopy will still be really dark. I have the feeling that I have more Isamu canopy repainting in my future...
  20. Those guns are actually pretty sleek and the entire assembly doesn't look like it would introduce too much drag. Not much more than a rotodome on an AWACS plane would produce anyway. Also, something like that certainly wouldn't produce enough drag to hinder the fighter's very powerful engines. Like modern planes, it also uses a fly-by-wire type of controls so it would do the necessary calculations and adjustments while interpreting the pilot's input to make the plane do what the pilot intended to do while still keeping it up in the air. I think the main reason those guns can only be used in subsonic atmospheric speeds is the risk of damage to the guns if they were being raised and rotated around at mach speeds. The drag at those speeds would probably damage the mechanisms or maybe even tear it right off.
  21. I think it was either that they were just lazy or felt it didn't look good. I repainted mine to be gray to be more like the movie and even I didn't do it exactly like the movie. This was because the armor was entirely gray in the movie and I felt it lacked any sort of contrast so I left the black parts and only repainted the blue areas. I think more people preferred the blue over the gray and Bandai might have felt the same.
  22. Awesome custom paint job, Scream Man. I love it!
  23. 1. "Enigma" - sample 1 sample 2 sample 3 2. "Minmay Guard Paris" - sample 1 sample 2 3. "Minmay Guard Moon Act" - sample 1 sample 2 sample 3 4. Blue Roses 1J (either one)- sample 1 sample 2 5. Blue Roses 1S - sample 1 sample 2 sample 3 If not actually make these paint schemes, at least make 1/60 scale decals or stickers to make it possible.
  24. My purple glass paint was delivered today so I tried it out when I got home. It's a thick paste when squeezed out of the tube so naturally I had to thin it down. Fortunately, it mixed pretty well with both Tamiya thinner and Future. I airbrushed it onto the fold quartz pieces and this is how it came out: It's not perfect, but it's pretty darn close and a whole lot better than the previous attempt as seen on the previous page. I think I'm satisfied with how it came out. I just need to spray it with Future after it dries for that extra glossy sheen.
  25. There really is no suitable ratio of tamiya's clear blue to red to get a decent purple. Trust me, I've tried all sorts of ratios and nothing was acceptable. What I came up with after hours of experimentation was the closest I could get to a purple and I tried to convince myself it was good enough, but I couldn't. I should get my purple paint tomorrow so I'll see if that works well enough or not. Why bother with harpoons when you can get right in their face and annoy them with singing until they leave? Maybe we can call them "Fold Wave Harpoony Thingies For People Who Can't Kill Vajra Good And Who Wanna Kill Other Stuff Good Too."
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