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MacrossJunkie

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  1. MacrossJunkie
    Proportionally, I like the Arcadia version better. The fighter mode just looks better with its curvatures that aren't as pronounced on the Bandai. I like that it has the back seat as well. Bandai is a close second with all the panel detailing they added, having a proper crotch piece flip, and better lip for the intakes. GERWALK mode, I give it to the Arcadia hands down. The swivel at the knee just looks a whole lot better than the swivel at the thigh. It just makes the Bandai version look like it's ready to ride a horse. Battroid mode, probably a tie. Proportionally, I prefer the Arcadia again due to it being closer to the Macross Plus animation proportions. However, Bandai gets dibs for the ingenious filler for the gaps in the legs and the proportions are certainly more fitting for a CG model where things stay more consistent. Customizing wise, even though I haven't done so yet, I give it to Bandai all the way. There's just so much less work for me with all the tampo printing already done, where I have to spend hours and hours applying the stickers first before I can do anything. Also, their panel lines aren't shallow like a creek in the Sahara desert. It's easy to panel line them whereas the Arcadia version not only can't be given a wash, it requires you to squint and put it under various angles of light to see if you're imagining if a panel line is actually there or not...
  2. MacrossJunkie
    Hmmm... I'm not sure. I'm just not seeing it in the scene you're describing. Here's Shin right after coming out of the water. This is the only part where you can get a decent view of the fin after he has come back up. Other than the blue light surrounding the valk, the fin itself is not very blue. Instead of relying on my eyes in case they are mistaken, I opened in GIMP and used the color picker to get the RGB values on a part of the fin that wasn't covered by the blue light. I got 32 Red, 11 Green, 16 Blue. Here's just before all those feathers are released. It's about as close to being able to see it clearly as you're going to get from this angle. It has a golden color reflecting off of it, so not blue. And finally after the feathers stop obscuring the valk enough to see much of it again. Can't really see the fins at this point:
  3. MacrossJunkie
    It's not really a matter of stiffness. I'll illustrate the difference in the implementations for having the swivel above or below the elbow joint: Here, Ozma can swing his arms outward and make use of the double joint and do a flex. Isamu can only make use of one and can only go a max of 90 degrees. Using the second joint would only cause the arms to fold forward.
  4. MacrossJunkie
    You know, I didn't play around with the battroid mode much, but now that you mention it and after thinking about it, it does limit the range of motion that putting the swivel above the elbow joint affords.
  5. MacrossJunkie
    I think that one is one of the CF versions based on the color and modex (as in not Shin's 311).
  6. MacrossJunkie
    I meant it in the way of "On the bright side, at least the rest of it looks good unlike the 0D that had the wrong color blue which covered much of the surface" and not "Well I don't know what people are talking about, but the color of the rest of the valk looks right to me!"
  7. MacrossJunkie
    Comparison between Ranka from Brera 27 and Ranka from Ozma 25S. Amputee Ranka also has a peg up her butt that goes into a hole in the back seat of the 27. So she won't seat properly in the other valks since they have no holes.
  8. MacrossJunkie
    I think aside from the dark blue on the fins and back of legs, the rest of the valk's colors look pretty accurate. If they have to screw up a color, I'd certainly prefer it to be limited to a small area rather than over the majority of the valk like with the 0D.
  9. MacrossJunkie
    Since I apparently have nothing better to do than to overanalyze things, here's another screenshot that may help. This scene has less colored ambient lighting than the other shots although there is still a slight bluish tint to everything, it is set above the clouds with direct sunlight hitting various parts of the valkyrie. The little triangle of sunlight hitting the white section of the fin shows that to be white. By the same token, the sunlight illuminating the right corner of the fin shows the area to be roughly the same gray as the heatshield. So take that how you want. A few more scenes where it looks grayish: In any case, whether it is blue or gray, I'm going to make mine gray because I feel it looks better that way.
  10. MacrossJunkie
    Hmmm, yeah... I believe I will be repainting those fins and the back of the legs if they come blue like that... I swear they must hire people with abnormal cone mutations in their eyes or really strange lighting in the office that makes these look right to them.
  11. MacrossJunkie
    Thanks, Mickyg! I don't have Illustrator, but I used Inkscape (is open source so it was free ) to create a vector graphics file based on that image. I'm not experienced with these things at all so I'm sure this could be done better by someone who knows what they're doing, but here's my go at it. Close up image: The actual vector graphics file is attached, resized (I think) to the proper dimensions to fit the VF-19Advance. Anyone can open up the file and change the colors or whatever for each object. VF-19 HUD panel 1.zip
  12. MacrossJunkie
    Thanks! Yeah, I got tired of messing with the light tent and the dusty velvet backdrop that was near impossible to get the dust off of. Not to mention the 24" light tent was often too small and the 60" light tent was unwieldy and a huge PITA to fold back because there's a certain way you have to fold it and sometimes I mess with it for an hour trying to figure it out and then give up in a fit of rage. The umbrellas are a little under 3 and a half feet across and the stand can extend up higher than my ceiling so I don't know how high it goes. I think the lighting looks better than when I was just using light tents, although the new setup has brought its own set of challenges to overcome. Such as the room being small so there's limited space to position the lights, my backdrop cloth is too small, can't move the table too close to the backdrop to make room because then the light illuminates it too much, can't move the table too far away or the backdrop doesn't cover what I need, etc...
  13. MacrossJunkie
    Thanks guys! I know it's been a while. I recently put pics of my 29B in the Perceval thread also. Yeah, part of the reason I got a second one was because I wasn't satisfied with how the first one turned out, although I was able to correct some of the deficiencies with the clear coat with a different product. The first 27 was probably my last time I used the Tamiya flat base before I switched to using the Vallejo matte varnish. It's just so much better that it's unbelievable. And yes, I started using 5500k LED bulbs instead of flourescent ones. Also got some light umbrellas to use with them although they are far bigger than I thought they would be and hard to use in a small room. It's also why my 29B pics look a bit off in color. It's because I forgot to adjust my white balance using my new setup so everything turned a few shades bluer.
  14. MacrossJunkie
    With the VF-27β coming soon, I finished weathering my second Brera 27. This one has subtler weathering than my first and a satin finish instead of being completely flat. Only took a few pics though. Comparison heavy weathering/flat vs light weathering/satin finish
  15. MacrossJunkie
    Same here. Just in time too because I finished the redo of my 2nd Super VF-27 today as I wasn't really satisfied with how my first one turned out. I'm hoping the the color on this green one stays consistent like the pictures show. I didn't like how the v1 greenie was different shades of green so I never ended up getting one.
  16. MacrossJunkie
    Here's the rest:
  17. MacrossJunkie
    Thanks! The fold crystals are actually purple. I tried a new clear purple paint which was also lacquer and I guess it was a bit more saturated than I expected. The Ozma variant is actually correct also, even if it might not look good. In the game, it's just a black bar too.
  18. MacrossJunkie
    Here's some pics of my weathered 29B. Painted the sensor frame and recolored the fold crystals also. Testing out a new photo setup without using a light tent so I'm still figuring out some things. I'll have the other modes maybe tomorrow. The clip that attaches the back of the left intake to the underside of the chest somehow snapped in half so I'm attempting to glue it and see if it holds. It must have been defective because that is the first time that has ever happened to me amongst all my 25's and 29's.
  19. MacrossJunkie
    I really hope it comes with those markings as tampo at minimum. The "Danger Intakes" I can deal with, but I hate doing the kites and the skull logo on black would look terrible as stickers, not to mention it's hard to trim round shapes perfectly.
  20. MacrossJunkie
    This isn't in the VF-25 thread, but I made a post with pics for the YF-29 here with some follow up posts below it. Most of it applies to the VF-25 also. To remove the arms, I believe you can just remove the screw underneath each of the die cast shoulder blocks.
  21. MacrossJunkie
    LOL, no worries. It's my OCD that's to blame. I dug around my paints to see what I had that was close. I picked out some model master cobalt blue, light gray and dark gray. I started with the cobalt blue and then mixed in the grays until I got it to where I wanted it.
  22. MacrossJunkie
    Ah, so you understand the curse I put myself under the moment I did my first one! I'm starting to get back into it. I've been weathering my 29B tonight to start and perhaps that was a bad choice. It's a lot more effort and hard to do because it's so dark... which means having to fade/lighten the color first and then do the weathering over top of that. Hard to predict whether I made the contrast too much or too subtle once I spray the clear coat, but I think I would prefer to err on the side of too subtle. On top of that, I'm painting the sensor array frame again... that thing is a pain in the @$$, but at least I think I managed to get close to/match the grayish periwinkle blue color.
  23. MacrossJunkie
    The stickers sucked and lifted/curled even back when they were brand new. The simple fact is they are too thick and stiff. Back in the day, I used Takatoy's stickers to sticker up my 1/48's instead. That said, if you can manage to peel off the top layer of the Yamato stickers, the bottom layer is pretty thin and should stick and conform decently to the toy. The trick is separating the two layers as it can be difficult, tedious, and time consuming.
  24. MacrossJunkie
    I can't wait to see it either! I just wish I didn't have to do the work It's got me all nervous. In addition to attempting the salt weathering, I think I'm going to try spraying through a stipple sponge for different mottling effects too. I still don't have a clear idea how the salt weathering works as far as cleaning off the salt after spraying. Seems to me you'd likely have some melted salt still trapped under the paint even after washing with water. Might need to practice on a kit first...
  25. MacrossJunkie
    This. I've made decals before and sometimes using white decal paper is enough to get the job done, but when you need things like small white lettering or complex insignias that has both white and transparent portions, it's just not possible to do. There is a custom I want to do with a 1/60 VF-1 assembly kit, but without being able to make my own white lettering, I have to put it on hold indefinitely.
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