MacrossJunkie
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Everything posted by MacrossJunkie
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Thanks! The fold crystals are actually purple. I tried a new clear purple paint which was also lacquer and I guess it was a bit more saturated than I expected. The Ozma variant is actually correct also, even if it might not look good. In the game, it's just a black bar too.
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Here's some pics of my weathered 29B. Painted the sensor frame and recolored the fold crystals also. Testing out a new photo setup without using a light tent so I'm still figuring out some things. I'll have the other modes maybe tomorrow. The clip that attaches the back of the left intake to the underside of the chest somehow snapped in half so I'm attempting to glue it and see if it holds. It must have been defective because that is the first time that has ever happened to me amongst all my 25's and 29's.
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I really hope it comes with those markings as tampo at minimum. The "Danger Intakes" I can deal with, but I hate doing the kites and the skull logo on black would look terrible as stickers, not to mention it's hard to trim round shapes perfectly.
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This isn't in the VF-25 thread, but I made a post with pics for the YF-29 here with some follow up posts below it. Most of it applies to the VF-25 also. To remove the arms, I believe you can just remove the screw underneath each of the die cast shoulder blocks.
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LOL, no worries. It's my OCD that's to blame. I dug around my paints to see what I had that was close. I picked out some model master cobalt blue, light gray and dark gray. I started with the cobalt blue and then mixed in the grays until I got it to where I wanted it.
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Ah, so you understand the curse I put myself under the moment I did my first one! I'm starting to get back into it. I've been weathering my 29B tonight to start and perhaps that was a bad choice. It's a lot more effort and hard to do because it's so dark... which means having to fade/lighten the color first and then do the weathering over top of that. Hard to predict whether I made the contrast too much or too subtle once I spray the clear coat, but I think I would prefer to err on the side of too subtle. On top of that, I'm painting the sensor array frame again... that thing is a pain in the @$$, but at least I think I managed to get close to/match the grayish periwinkle blue color.
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The stickers sucked and lifted/curled even back when they were brand new. The simple fact is they are too thick and stiff. Back in the day, I used Takatoy's stickers to sticker up my 1/48's instead. That said, if you can manage to peel off the top layer of the Yamato stickers, the bottom layer is pretty thin and should stick and conform decently to the toy. The trick is separating the two layers as it can be difficult, tedious, and time consuming.
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I can't wait to see it either! I just wish I didn't have to do the work It's got me all nervous. In addition to attempting the salt weathering, I think I'm going to try spraying through a stipple sponge for different mottling effects too. I still don't have a clear idea how the salt weathering works as far as cleaning off the salt after spraying. Seems to me you'd likely have some melted salt still trapped under the paint even after washing with water. Might need to practice on a kit first...
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This. I've made decals before and sometimes using white decal paper is enough to get the job done, but when you need things like small white lettering or complex insignias that has both white and transparent portions, it's just not possible to do. There is a custom I want to do with a 1/60 VF-1 assembly kit, but without being able to make my own white lettering, I have to put it on hold indefinitely.
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If they can maintain the level of violence that was in season one, I'd be totally okay with that. The first season was more violent than I had expected it to be.
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That looks great. Does he have an Alps printer or something? Wondering how he made the decals for the pilot name and the squadron insignias.
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I don't suppose there's any 3rd party decals for the VF-0? I think I'm going to have to buy some hasegawa VF-0 kits just to cannibalize the decals off them, even if they're smaller. I looked at the sticker sheet for the VF-0D for the first time and it's missing a bunch of markings that even the Yamato version had (either as stickers or already tampo printed). I'm thinking it will be the same for the upcoming VF-0A and S releases too.
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I've no experience with Lifecolor or Citadel paints, but Model Master Acryl is indeed labelled as non-toxic, Vallejo as well. They can be thinned with distilled water. The Tamiya acrylics are toxic. The Tamiya ones contain isopropanol and ethylene glycol ethers which is not something one should try to ingest or inhale. Not sure about the Gunze ones, as I only have the lacquer based Mr Color. At the same time, though the Tamiya paints are apparently mixable with lacquer thinners, I'm still not really convinced that they are really lacquers in the traditional sense as the paint is still easily removed by acrylic solvents without ever harming a lacquer undercoat. They are perhaps just formulated to be lacquer thinner compatible. On the flip side, their thinner product meant for their acrylics doesn't seem to do well for something like the Mr. Color lacquers. I've heard you can use Mr. Color thinner to remove both lacquers and acrylics though.
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Interesting... that really jumbles my understanding of Acrylic vs Enamel vs Lacquer paints, at least as they are commonly used in the hobby paint sense. For the typical hobby paint classifications as sold by the big names in hobby paints, I've always seen it as : lacquer - uses toxic lacquer thinners. "hot" and reacts with plastics and should not be placed over enamels or acrylics. enamels - uses mineral spirit based thinners. not at "hot" as lacquer, use cautiously over acrylic, safely used over other enamels and lacquer. Very durable. acrylic - water based, can be thinned with stuff like windex or various types of alcohols or other commercially available acrylic thinners. Can be used safely over enamel or lacquers. Easily scratched compared to the other types. I looked up the definition of lacquer and going by that definition, pretty much all hobby paints could be classified as a lacquer: So technically, calling the Tamiya acrylics a "lacquer" would be correct in that sense. But so would all the other acrylics and enamel paints as well. But as far as categorization for hobby paint (or even automotive) purposes, no one would know how to use anything if everything were called a lacquer. Well, in any case, I'm just trying to plan out how I'm going to do my VF-0D and I bought the Alclad Klear Kote so I can do layers of weathering and not have to start from scratch each time I screw it up. I guess I'll need to do an extra Future clear coat on top before attempting a turpenoid based oil wash. Oh yeah, I remember now that you mention it. That was really unfortunate =( Maybe Alclad II Lacquer is sort of the brand/line name and not necessarily indicating what it is? Or maybe they're just going with that generic definition of lacquers. They even seem to have different kinds of the same thing but for different materials. Chrome Lacquer for Plastic Chrome Lacquer for Lexan I assume they must have different solvents or something.
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Rise from the grave! Sorry for necro'ing this thread, but I was wondering if the Alclad II Gloss Klear Kote was actually lacquer or enamel. The bottle label says lacquer, but the title in that link says enamel. I'm getting the impression from other places that it's mineral spirit based, but I just wanted to see if anyone knew for sure as it seems rather misleading. Just like this Alclad II Aqua Gloss. The label and title says lacquer, but elsewhere I'm reading it's acrylic based? That's as far apart between types as you can get!
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The 4th one is just simulating travel at ludicrous speed.
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This is great news! We knew it was coming, but it's good to finally have it confirmed.
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Grats on freeing your valk from the clutches of the post office!
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Actually, I don't think it would be too hard. Here are the Yamato and Arcadia ones: The Yamato one sticks out a lot, but on the Arcadia version, the end of the arrow only sticks out a tiny bit. If it were made just a tad shorter, it wouldn't stick out at all.
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This is for UPS, but applies to USPS also:
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Oh neat. I haven't seen these Gundam real touch markers before. I have the paint markers and fine tip pens, but hadn't encountered these. The effects you got on areas like the feet or the highlighting on the edges look a lot like the result of drybrushing with the tamiya kits. Didn't know you could do that with markers. Good job Oh, and thanks on the Arcadia 19!
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That is correct, but I was just comparing the ones that were physically the same. Do you mean in the game? The toy versions seem to have identical looking cockpits between the YF-29 releases, just different colors.
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Mr. K != Shoji Kawamori. Mr. K is an employee of Arcadia who is involved with their Macross toy lines.
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And the YF-29B comes with a bayonet equipped gunpod not available with the Alto or 30th Ann versions!
