MacrossJunkie
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Everything posted by MacrossJunkie
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I can confirm that you should hear/feel a click when you pull it out. It didn't require quite as much effort on my copies though. Trying to detach the gunpod from the container on the other hand...
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Yeah, the guide doesn't follow the line art. The third image shows the ankles extended and visible. The guide also shows the crotch piece being angled out but the line art shows it flat. In the end, it's up to people how they want to transform it. I tend to go by the line art.
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That would be awesome. I'll let you know when I'll be needing some. I still need to order and get the display cabinet first and see how things are going to be arranged to see how many would be needed.
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I only recently found those detolf mounts on your site. That's really clever. I was thinking of getting a larger display case that's 48" wide which makes my fishing line trick no longer viable. I think this might solve the problem when I finally do get a new display. How snug does the mount fit on the detolfs? Could it fit over glass that's 1/4" thick or is that too thick for these mounts?
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I haven't really kept up over the past year or so since most of the Macross pre-order releases last year were hi-metal stuff or things I wasn't interested in. Prior to that in 2015, their prices were about on par with other places within a few % for Arcadia stuff. I didn't even know they got rid of the pay later option for certain pre-orders until I tried to get the VF-31J super parts and got to the payment part and thought I skipped a step. -
I really like enemy or antagonist mecha. They tend to feature very different transformation implementations which makes them interesting to me.
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Wow, that's actually a decent bit more than the NY pre-order.
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Since those are painful on the eyes, can that technically be considered as itasha?
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Do you really? The CG images of the battroid mode show the ankles extended and visible. Model kit version:
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Well, the fact that they reused the same photos for both products makes it hard to determine what markings will make it to the production premium release as those wouldn't necessarily be indicative of the final product. Arcadia/Yamato have always showed more markings on the prototype pics of the VF-1's so there's not much to say about the normal release. Whatever was printed on the previous releases of the VF-1 is what you should expect to get in the non-premium version.
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You can just stop after Ep 13...
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Judging by the photos, it feels like the FAST packs are missing markings on the Premium. Paying an extra $50-something hardly seems worth it. Also, I couldn't bring myself to pay $246 for a VF-1... It would be great if they could give us an in between choice of an optional set of waterslide decals.
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I didn't like the YF-29's super parts when they first came out, so I didn't buy them. They grew on me later and I regretted not getting it when I had the chance. I had to pay more to get them later on. Now, if I'm not sure, then I get it. You can always sell it later, if it's not wanted.
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There are variances during production, I think. For example, of my two Ozma 25S's, the skull paintjob on one flakes off at the slightest touch along some of the corners, but the other one is just fine and doesn't do that. For whatever reason during production, the paint doesn't seem to adhere the same on all toys. So I personally wouldn't discount people's experiences.
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I wouldn't mind if Bandai took a stab at doing Hayate's dad's VF-22 with it having Frontier/Delta aesthetics like they did with the VF-19 Advance.
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I thought I read somewhere that it was pre-thinned, but in any case, it can be thinned with distilled water or Vallejo's acrylic thinner, which is a whitish looking fluid. I mix mine with Future most of the time because of its smooth leveling properties and UV resistance and have had good results using the Tamiya acrylic thinner when mixing with Future. I rinse out and spray with tap water first then I use the Iwata airbrush cleaner or just rubbing alcohol and some airbrush cleaning brushes to clean out when I'm done. People say not to use rubbing alcohol to clean it because they've had problems with the matte varnish gumming up, but since I am sometimes contrarian, I tried using rubbing alcohol to clean it out of two different Badger airbrushes and have no issues whatsoever using it as a solvent on the matte varnish. Maybe because I rinse out the cup and spray with water first before I do any cleaning? So I dunno, based on personal experience it works for me and have no gumming or left over residue within the inner mechanics of my airbrushes, but YMMV with rubbing alcohol (just do not use as a thinner, but that is pretty much common sense). I'll be trying out the polyurethane version sometime on some test pieces to see how it reacts to the paints I use.
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The wear seems comparable based on multiple transformations. Most of the time though, even for flat finishes, I do mix with some Future. Another benefit over the Tamiya flat base is that I have been able to spray multiple coats without each subsequent coat looking whiter and whiter whereas with the Tamiya, you're limited with how many times you can spray and you had to spray the whole area because spot sprayed areas were visibly different. What issues have you had with the non-polyurethane version? I've used it on my last 7 or so valks with no problem and with great looking results. This was entirely airbrushed except for a little hand brushing on the canopy frames. Clean up was very easy and hassle free in my airbrushes as well. I did see the polyurethane version a few days ago and ordered a bottle to try out. I wasn't sure how safe it was to spray over acrylics.
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Probably a glitch or something. If it was a client side cache issue, I would think their server back end would not let that happen.
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Ugh... isn't that the truth. I regret not buying Alto's Full Armor set. I can't even find it second hand anymore either. Bandai's one and done strategy is dumb. Especially when they re-release some things but don't re-make the accessories that go with it.
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As an alternative to using the Tamiya Flat Base (X-21), I highly recommend the Vallejo Matte Varnish, which I can get from Amazon for around the same price. Early on, I was telling people to use the Tamiya flat base, but after trying the Vallejo matte varnish, I've had much better results from using it compared to the Tamiya flat base and much prefer the Vallejo. Too often I've gotten little white specks from spraying the tamiya flat no matter how much I stirred and mixed, even trying new bottles. With the Vallejo, I just shake and squeeze some drops straight out of the bottle and it's already premixed to give a nice flat uniform finish. Add Future to make it less flat or semi-gloss. Sounds like you've had more luck with brushing it on also. Whenever I tried to brush it on, the flat base would not leave a uniform flatness and you could see streaks in the coat after it dries. The coating itself would be level, but the flat base tended to gather around the brush hairs despite mixing it well prior and leave whiter streaks or swirls within the coat after brushing. I didn't get that with the vallejo. I pretty much swear by that stuff now. I feel it's just that much better.
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Red circled areas are the potential problem spots I mentioned above.
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The blue surface under the trailing part of the canards can rub against the canards. On both my copies, the starboard side is not perfectly flush and has rubbed off against the canard, forcing me to touch it up. The black area on the sides just behind the canopy can get rubbed off due to the way battroid mode folds down over it. I had to color match and touch those up as well. When folding the weapon container up, it can be tricky getting it up over the part of the backplate that sticks out as there is little to no clearance and can cause rubbing on the grey paint if you don't do it just perfectly right. Haven't had any trouble with it yet, but the inner ankle collar areas can rub against the weapon container in fighter mode. Haven't had any problems with the intakes/hips myself. When I'm home, I'll take pics and mark the areas to clarify what parts I'm talking about as I feel my descriptions aren't sufficient.
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So, which is better overall? Arcadia YF-19 or Bandai VF-19 Advance
MacrossJunkie replied to takatoys's topic in Toys
The only things that are actually loose on my YF-19's are the freaking ankles. The one I have in battroid mode has to be propped up against something or else it will topple over eventually. -
Yeah, it wasn't too hard to match the color. I took Tamiya sky blue (X-14) and flat blue (XF-8). Using the sky blue as the base, I dropped about 4 drops onto a white bottle cap and then a couple drops of blue elsewhere. I dabbed in a little bit of blue at a time with a brush until it looked just right. Mix well before dabbing in more so you can see if it's just right or not. One of my copies was pretty bad. The wing wouldn't go up all the way. It's not so much the square peg as it is the left over sprue on the dark grey pieces still sticking out of the plastic that forced a gap. I used an xacto knife to carefully shave away the plastic until the wing could go up without that unsightly gap.
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Good to know. Thanks!
