MacrossJunkie
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Everything posted by MacrossJunkie
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There are variances during production, I think. For example, of my two Ozma 25S's, the skull paintjob on one flakes off at the slightest touch along some of the corners, but the other one is just fine and doesn't do that. For whatever reason during production, the paint doesn't seem to adhere the same on all toys. So I personally wouldn't discount people's experiences.
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I wouldn't mind if Bandai took a stab at doing Hayate's dad's VF-22 with it having Frontier/Delta aesthetics like they did with the VF-19 Advance.
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I thought I read somewhere that it was pre-thinned, but in any case, it can be thinned with distilled water or Vallejo's acrylic thinner, which is a whitish looking fluid. I mix mine with Future most of the time because of its smooth leveling properties and UV resistance and have had good results using the Tamiya acrylic thinner when mixing with Future. I rinse out and spray with tap water first then I use the Iwata airbrush cleaner or just rubbing alcohol and some airbrush cleaning brushes to clean out when I'm done. People say not to use rubbing alcohol to clean it because they've had problems with the matte varnish gumming up, but since I am sometimes contrarian, I tried using rubbing alcohol to clean it out of two different Badger airbrushes and have no issues whatsoever using it as a solvent on the matte varnish. Maybe because I rinse out the cup and spray with water first before I do any cleaning? So I dunno, based on personal experience it works for me and have no gumming or left over residue within the inner mechanics of my airbrushes, but YMMV with rubbing alcohol (just do not use as a thinner, but that is pretty much common sense). I'll be trying out the polyurethane version sometime on some test pieces to see how it reacts to the paints I use.
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The wear seems comparable based on multiple transformations. Most of the time though, even for flat finishes, I do mix with some Future. Another benefit over the Tamiya flat base is that I have been able to spray multiple coats without each subsequent coat looking whiter and whiter whereas with the Tamiya, you're limited with how many times you can spray and you had to spray the whole area because spot sprayed areas were visibly different. What issues have you had with the non-polyurethane version? I've used it on my last 7 or so valks with no problem and with great looking results. This was entirely airbrushed except for a little hand brushing on the canopy frames. Clean up was very easy and hassle free in my airbrushes as well. I did see the polyurethane version a few days ago and ordered a bottle to try out. I wasn't sure how safe it was to spray over acrylics.
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Probably a glitch or something. If it was a client side cache issue, I would think their server back end would not let that happen.
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Ugh... isn't that the truth. I regret not buying Alto's Full Armor set. I can't even find it second hand anymore either. Bandai's one and done strategy is dumb. Especially when they re-release some things but don't re-make the accessories that go with it.
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As an alternative to using the Tamiya Flat Base (X-21), I highly recommend the Vallejo Matte Varnish, which I can get from Amazon for around the same price. Early on, I was telling people to use the Tamiya flat base, but after trying the Vallejo matte varnish, I've had much better results from using it compared to the Tamiya flat base and much prefer the Vallejo. Too often I've gotten little white specks from spraying the tamiya flat no matter how much I stirred and mixed, even trying new bottles. With the Vallejo, I just shake and squeeze some drops straight out of the bottle and it's already premixed to give a nice flat uniform finish. Add Future to make it less flat or semi-gloss. Sounds like you've had more luck with brushing it on also. Whenever I tried to brush it on, the flat base would not leave a uniform flatness and you could see streaks in the coat after it dries. The coating itself would be level, but the flat base tended to gather around the brush hairs despite mixing it well prior and leave whiter streaks or swirls within the coat after brushing. I didn't get that with the vallejo. I pretty much swear by that stuff now. I feel it's just that much better.
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Red circled areas are the potential problem spots I mentioned above.
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The blue surface under the trailing part of the canards can rub against the canards. On both my copies, the starboard side is not perfectly flush and has rubbed off against the canard, forcing me to touch it up. The black area on the sides just behind the canopy can get rubbed off due to the way battroid mode folds down over it. I had to color match and touch those up as well. When folding the weapon container up, it can be tricky getting it up over the part of the backplate that sticks out as there is little to no clearance and can cause rubbing on the grey paint if you don't do it just perfectly right. Haven't had any trouble with it yet, but the inner ankle collar areas can rub against the weapon container in fighter mode. Haven't had any problems with the intakes/hips myself. When I'm home, I'll take pics and mark the areas to clarify what parts I'm talking about as I feel my descriptions aren't sufficient.
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So, which is better overall? Arcadia YF-19 or Bandai VF-19 Advance
MacrossJunkie replied to takatoys's topic in Toys
The only things that are actually loose on my YF-19's are the freaking ankles. The one I have in battroid mode has to be propped up against something or else it will topple over eventually. -
Yeah, it wasn't too hard to match the color. I took Tamiya sky blue (X-14) and flat blue (XF-8). Using the sky blue as the base, I dropped about 4 drops onto a white bottle cap and then a couple drops of blue elsewhere. I dabbed in a little bit of blue at a time with a brush until it looked just right. Mix well before dabbing in more so you can see if it's just right or not. One of my copies was pretty bad. The wing wouldn't go up all the way. It's not so much the square peg as it is the left over sprue on the dark grey pieces still sticking out of the plastic that forced a gap. I used an xacto knife to carefully shave away the plastic until the wing could go up without that unsightly gap.
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Good to know. Thanks!
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If someone figures out how to take the fuselage for the 31 apart, please do tell me. Just to see how it would look, I tried painting up the sensors with transparent smoke color so that the whole thing isn't just bright red like in the show. It just doesn't have the sense of depth. Ideally, I'd strip the paint off completely and paint up the underside with red and smoke and then put chrome over the the red portion to make it more reflective while the top side would be clear and shiny. But I can't find a way to take it apart.... frustrating. A least I was able to fix the thigh paint rubbing off when using the GERWALK joints. Just had to shave off some plastic with an xacto knife to gain more clearance. I think I matched the blue pretty well if I do say so myself.
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Nevermind. I did some calculations on the toy heights vs actual. So the Spartan is roughly 1/75 scale while the Monster is roughly 1/95 scale and the Glaug is about 1/85.
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What scale is the HMR Spartan and are they in scale with the other HMR Macross releases? I'm considering getting a spartan since it's doubtful there will ever be one in 1/60 scale.
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I don't know how people complete their orders so fast. It takes my browser all of maybe .3 seconds to refresh the hobbysearch page and I was refreshing like crazy. People would have had to make and complete their orders in less than 2 seconds. Such a ripoff. Definitely padding their profits with the shipping because normally it doesn't cost anywhere near that for shipping from HK. Back when HKcollectibles was still around, I ordered some stuff from them and it didn't cost anywhere near that much. Only 188 HKD (less than $25 USD) for shipping a VF-19P, for example, and that's a lot bigger than a HMR Spartan. Granted, that was registered airmail, but EMS would have cost about the same as it would going from Japan.
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I was fortunate with the timing of the pre-order this time. I work from home on Fridays. Otherwise, I get up at 5 AM to beat the traffic on my commute to work... Where the hell are they shipping from? Antarctica? Or are they shipping them in boxes made of solid lead?
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Got mine at HLJ. I had CDJ one click away from purchasing, but I decided to wait for HLJ instead. Glad I did.
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Sometimes they fudge up the product name also. I think when the VF-25S went up for pre-order, they put it up as YF-25S so it didn't come up in searches.
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HLJ was actually early before the listed time for the 31J.
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Does it really matter though? I'm sure they already know the usual suspects of sites to check and have their browsers refreshing without the need to rely on this thread.
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The pre-order has been universally cancelled due to complete lack of interest. Go home people. There's nothing to see here. *Secretly continues to get ready for checking all the sites*
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Upon shipping, if I recall correctly.
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Total deal breaker. Intention to pre-order cancelled!
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Yeah, that's what I'm saying. They're probably not starting work until Saturday at 9 AM. So it will depend on if the pre-order stuff is automated or requires a person to get that up on the site.
