Official Bandai 1/72 Scale Macross Frontier Model Kit Thread Ver.2

[Graham]

The original official thread has been closed and moved to the archive as it was getting too long at 76 pages.

Please keep all discussion and news of Bandai's Macross Frontier model kits to this thread. You are also welcome to post photos of your completed kits in this thread.

The exception is WM Chengs upcoming buildup, which deserves it's own separate thread.

Graham

[Graham]

To start things off, I'd like to say that all of the larger stickers on my kit are holding up suprisingly well after about 10 transformations.

Some of the smaller stickers are not doing so well, especially the small red diamonds on the LERX, the small red diamond on the front chest plate and the small red rectangles on the upper shouldes. These all started peeling off. I think this is just beacuse the surface area of the stickers is too small, so they don't adhere very well.

I removed all these small red stickers and used a red Gundam marker to paint on the markings instead. I also painted on the red sensor on the front of the gunpod as that sticker had started peeling off as well.

In the old thread, MWer Regult mentioned that he used decals beacuse he thought they are easier to apply than stickers. I'm the exact opposite. I used stickers, beacuse all you have to do is stick them on and rub them flat. no messing about with setting or softening solutions, no worries about them crinkling or cracking, no need for clear cloat, etc, etc.

Graham

[David Hingtgen]

I was thinking about inking in most of the "small red recesses" anyways. I'll try the decals first--can always ink later. (that's kind of my plan for the whole kit--decal everything, anything that doesn't last will get replaced with a sticker and/or painted on)

[Zeropioneer]

Heh heh--EVERYTYHING in those pics in 1/72, including the Ultrasaurus.

I don't mean to go off topic but... OMG, a fellow zoider!

And going back on topic:

Easier to just not apply the clear parts, then spray. Versus masking them. The whole thing's snap-fit, so it's not a problem attaching parts later or slightly out of order.

PS--I just decaled the 'red triangle on the crotch plate'---anyone gotten this to fit perfectly? I'm up to my "atomic bomb of decal set" and it's still not matching up/conforming quite right at the corners. It actually doesn't seem to be quite the right shape/size in the first place--slightly oversized, and the "curved" upper section shouldn't be IMHO. I considered inking that marking on myself, but figured I'd give the decal a try. (I doubt the sticker would work well at all really--90 degree bends only 1mm thick?)

PPS to anyone decaling---the decals do seem to be "typical Japanese" in that they respond very well to hot water, and not so well to decal set. However, they do respond to decal set better than "previous generation Hasegawa" decals--anything from 2002 or earlier or so.

I am not sure, but perhaps you are talking about the attached pic? I got mine to fit pretty nicely using Mr. hobby "Mr. mark setter", looks pretty nice too... is that the decal you were talking about?

Edit: UGH, forgot to resize the pic... it is a huge file... sorry!

Edited October 21, 2008 by Zeropioneer

[David Hingtgen]

That's the one I'm talking about. My best (only) modelling skill is decaling, and as I said--I'm *very* picky about them as it's the one thing I can do well so I do it as best as I possibly can. Honestly I've done mine better than the pic you posted--but it's still not good enough for my standards.

[Zeropioneer]

That's the one I'm talking about. My best (only) modelling skill is decaling, and as I said--I'm *very* picky about them as it's the one thing I can do well so I do it as best as I possibly can. Honestly I've done mine better than the pic you posted--but it's still not good enough for my standards.

Heh... sorry to hear that. I was really satisfied with the result given that this is the first time I've ever used water-slide decals, as Zoids and MG Gundams were my only previous experience, and as you probably know, those use stickers and dry transfers, which are much easier to do than decals. Anyway, I hope you get the result you are yearning for, good luck!

Edited October 21, 2008 by Zeropioneer

[bullet101]

Well i've just about finished mine now, quite happy with it, haven't transformed it yet. Only part i have left to do is remodel and paint the landing gear, especially since judging from the series its not only overly clunky but also at the very least half a centimetre too tall! So going by that even though the little alto in the cockpit is undersized he'd still need to be the size of a small zentradi child to just be able to touch the nose of the valkyrie!!!!

[David Hingtgen]

Meh, trying even more decal set etc only succeeded in eating the white ink out of the decal, and the sticker sucked, so I just painted it---and it came out better than any decal would IMHO:

(weird fact--the smaller it is, the better I am at painting it---this is why I truly suck at things like one-color 1/18 cars, but do well with 1/144 Gundam eyes)

[anime52k8]

Meh, trying even more decal set etc only succeeded in eating the white ink out of the decal, and the sticker sucked, so I just painted it---and it came out better than any decal would IMHO:

(weird fact--the smaller it is, the better I am at painting it---this is why I truly suck at things like one-color 1/18 cars, but do well with 1/144 Gundam eyes)

weird, I hate painting small parts. I've noticed something though about that decal, on the michel and luca versions they use the same red decal, is the little triangle supposed to always be red, or is it supposed to be color matched?

anyways I'm debating what I want to do with the landing gear. the kit pieces look like absolute crap and considering how simple the real gears are I'm thinking about scratch building new ones out of brass tube and styrene. but considering that I don't plan on displaying any of mine with gears down at this point, I don't know if it's worth it.

I really wanna get a third alto now and see if I can make it PT.

[Alex]

Came back home the other day to find my VF-25 trying to peek up his own rear-end. The teeny plastic tab that holds the torso to the cod-piece must have been weakened by multiple transformations. It just snapped off.

Fixed it by drilling out the piece and adding a stronger (and much more conspicuous) tab. I'm probably going to investigate the potential of a magnet in this area when I get the Ozma next month.

How widespread is this coz that tab really IS quite small and required to support the entire upper torso.

[nightmareB4macross]

Came back home the other day to find my VF-25 trying to peek up his own rear-end. The teeny plastic tab that holds the torso to the cod-piece must have been weakened by multiple transformations. It just snapped off.

Fixed it by drilling out the piece and adding a stronger (and much more conspicuous) tab. I'm probably going to investigate the potential of a magnet in this area when I get the Ozma next month.

How widespread is this coz that tab really IS quite small and required to support the entire upper torso.

After all it's still a model.

[Graham]

I think you are the second MWer that has reported that tab breaking.

If this was a Yamato product, people would now be screaming about how their QC sucks.

Graham

[David Hingtgen]

Hmmn. I'll see if I can add some internal rods during assembly, to prevent breaking. (easiest way honestly is to drill a hole, then snap the bit off inside)

::edit:: Another question---has anyone cut out the printed-on vernier in the stripes? I don't plan on using decals for any of the verniers, but that one's part of the stripe decal itself, and there's NO gap between it and the surrounding stripe---very difficult to cut a perfect circle with no margin of error.

[regult]

Hmmn. I'll see if I can add some internal rods during assembly, to prevent breaking. (easiest way honestly is to drill a hole, then snap the bit off inside)

::edit:: Another question---has anyone cut out the printed-on vernier in the stripes? I don't plan on using decals for any of the verniers, but that one's part of the stripe decal itself, and there's NO gap between it and the surrounding stripe---very difficult to cut a perfect circle with no margin of error.

I also didn't want to apply ANY decals for the verniers, and did a good job painting the recesses black, at least passes my QC (would not pass if it was made at a factory though!). Had the same hesitation about the one "trapped" in the livery, and passed. IT actually is painted underneath the decal, but with softener/setter, it's still acceptable. Mind you: the decal is actually smaller (just a tad) than the actual molded vernier, you may want to be very very careful to cut a bit more than it's printed in the decal if you want no red/black stripes getting into the vernier.

[regult]

Meh, trying even more decal set etc only succeeded in eating the white ink out of the decal, and the sticker sucked, so I just painted it---and it came out better than any decal would IMHO:

(weird fact--the smaller it is, the better I am at painting it---this is why I truly suck at things like one-color 1/18 cars, but do well with 1/144 Gundam eyes)

Thanks Graham for the feedback, I really suck at applying stickers, they never settle in the right place in one go, and adjusting only makes it worse...you're right about the red stickers in the recessed areas, they're too small and easily peel off. I used a decal for the chest plate, and even that came off! now it's neatly painted with red enamel and looks even better: David, I'd not even bother applying decals, since you're good with paint...by the way, that looks amazing compared to anything you will ever achieve with a decal or the sticker. Eventually I may turn to the brush and apply some flat red enamel over there, same with the engine intake triangular detail.

Still not sure what to do with that part, don't want to change the whole thing coz the red stripes are staying well, only the black outlines and red triangles are messed up as I showed in previous pictures.

Do any of you experienced modellers ever use stickers and then clear coat on top? Saw a build in a model shop here in Hong Kong and the wings had yellowed SMS and SMS007 logos, guess it was the sticker reacting to the clear coat? I am not sure what a hybrid sticker/decal should be dealt with.

Edited October 21, 2008 by regult

[PetarB]

I think you are the second MWer that has reported that tab breaking.

If this was a Yamato product, people would now be screaming about how their QC sucks.

Graham

Here is my suggestion. It's a model, don't play with it. Get a Yamato toy if you want to play. Models are for display. (Where is Less than super ostrich when I need him)

[regult]

Here is my suggestion. It's a model, don't play with it. Get a Yamato toy if you want to play. Models are for display. (Where is Less than super ostrich when I need him)

Yeah, but:

1) Yamato does not and will not (within the foreseeable future) make ANY Macross F stuff

2) the alternative to the model is the BANDAI DX chunky, costs 3 times the model and looks 3 times (or more) inferior

3) the Bandai model transforms, with all the inherent problems that brings...maybe they should make a non transformable model of each mode for display?

[Vifam7]

Here is my suggestion. It's a model, don't play with it. Get a Yamato toy if you want to play. Models are for display.

Hmm, but isn't "don't play too much with your Yamato or it'll break" SOP for Yamatos as well?

Here's my suggestion -

1. Deal with ugliness of the DX toy but have fun playing with it. Abuse the hell out of it. Hey, if it's a chogokin, it ought to withstand some roughness. We shall see if this will be the case though.

or

2. Get the 1/100 partsformer. You'll have to deal with partsforming but at least it'll look good in all 3 modes plus since it's an action figure, it ought to be able to take some abuse. We shall see if this will be the case though.

or

3. Figure out a way to make the 1/72 kit more sturdy. If a certain piece is found likely to break, there's a good chance modellers in Japan, maybe some one here at MW, or one of the magazines like Hobby Japan might come up with a nice solution.

[anime52k8]

Hmmn. I'll see if I can add some internal rods during assembly, to prevent breaking. (easiest way honestly is to drill a hole, then snap the bit off inside)

I wonder how well that would work on that part though, the little tab looks incredibly tiny. (it sounds doable, I'd just like to know how big the little tab is.)

Edited October 21, 2008 by anime52k8

[cowie165]

Here is my suggestion. It's a model, don't play with it. Get a Yamato toy if you want to play. Models are for display. (Where is Less than super ostrich when I need him)

Toy-hater!

TIC

Edited October 21, 2008 by cowie165

[Parker Midwinter]

I don't have one in my hands... but depending on patience, and the actual colour scheme and markings, wouldn't it be easier just to mask/paint the simple stuff, then seal it with future, decal it, weather it, future it again, then flat-coat it... would this not both make a longer-lasting/transformation resistant paint job all-round? I use acrylics as i paint alot of minis, and it's quite durable, especially with a sealant on it. I must say, i would've preferred the Bandai MacrossF stuff to not be transformable, for the trade-off of greater accuracy, but they look VERY good despite that... so I'll take it as a bonus. I've also never encountered a set of stickers that worked better than paint or decals... so they're out the window. but I paint Warhammer minis for my local group for spare cash... so i'm accustomed to painting tiny details and such.

personally, I don't intend to buy them for their transformation feature... but it seems to me that a highly durable sealant like Future would be your best bet, and if you needed to, you could always just re-touch it if it gets scraped off or worn away.

[ntsan]

Hope they will release the Vajra kit (is it a toy or model?)

Perfect companion to the Valks (get an army of vajra should be stunning )

[David Hingtgen]

For those that are using transparent paint:

Are you painting the underside or top side of the nose sensors? I ask because there's a "visible from above" pin directly underneath the forward sensor, and that'd kind of mess up the normal "paint the underside" rule for clear parts.

(painting the cockpit tonight)

[Graham]

For those that are using transparent paint:

Are you painting the underside or top side of the nose sensors? I ask because there's a "visible from above" pin directly underneath the forward sensor, and that'd kind of mess up the normal "paint the underside" rule for clear parts.

(painting the cockpit tonight)

I painted the underside of the sensors.

Graham

[GGemini]

For those that are using transparent paint:

Are you painting the underside or top side of the nose sensors? I ask because there's a "visible from above" pin directly underneath the forward sensor, and that'd kind of mess up the normal "paint the underside" rule for clear parts.

(painting the cockpit tonight)

Top side, precisely because of the tab / pin.

[Alex]

I wonder how well that would work on that part though, the little tab looks incredibly tiny. (it sounds doable, I'd just like to know how big the little tab is.)

It's more than do-able. I just clipped off a piece of the sprue and Heath-Robinsoned a replacement.

However, the part it is replacing is incredibly small and thin. As I said, i'll probably use magnets in that piece in the Ozma. I tested out that idea the other day and it works well considering how light the kit is.

BTW, has anyone else placed springs or folded plastic in to the cod-piece. I did and now the inner plate that sometimes falls back always comes up into place.

Edited October 22, 2008 by Alex

[electric indigo]

Another view of Luca's drone from Rainbow Ten that shows the still rough finish of the 3D print. I really like the design of this Ghost version.

[neptunesurvey]

I just picked up the VF-25F kit today. Its been awhile since I had a transforming model kit.

[CF18]

Upcoming Dengeki Hobby will have some Macross F features:

http://hobby.dengeki.com/hobby/tachiyomi/0812/0812hobby.html

[007-vf1]

I really dig that Queadlunn-RARE convertion there....

Edited October 22, 2008 by 007-vf1

[ntsan]

I digg the Vajra featured there

[David Hingtgen]

Re-iterating the earlier question about "does clear-coating stickers work?" particularly foil ones. I haven't even put together mine yet, but the front big white sticker on the black crotch piece is already peeling bit--and I spent a lot of time and was very careful with applying it. I mean I really rubbed and pressed that sucker down, with thumbnail and toothpicks. I'll see if a hairdryer will help it stick better in the mean time.

[Jeremy007]

i hope i didnt misunderstand anything but as to your question about clear-coating stickers...Yes, it absolutly works. When im done with the assemble, i use Mr. Hobby's Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer and then clear coat the whole model. The combination of the mark setter and clearcoat prevents any peeling whatsoever. Mr. Mark Setter is the best decal set ive ever used...it really gives that "painted on" look and the clearcoat makes them look that much better.

[David Hingtgen]

The question was about clear-coating *stickers*, as in self-adhesive peel-and-apply.

[Jeremy007]

oh sorry. I have built several of Bandai's MG Patlabor kits and they all come with regular clear stickers and i clear coat those as well. Never had a problem. Bandai has always had a bit of a problem with oversized decals...especially the clear excess part around the actual decal itself. I usually trim all bandai stickers so all excess clear material is cut away, apply and clearcoat.

they hold up just fine.