Bandai VF-2SS with removeable SAP

[Fly4victory]

Another Bandai product is falling victim again but unlike last year's project the VF-17s:

http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...=21567&st=0

this years project is the old VF-2SS just recently re-released for the 25th Anniversary.

B-Club released a modification kit to have the Battroid without SAP(Super Armor Pack)

http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/models...f2ss_486%20.htm

I do not have this but wish I did since they would have already solved some of the problems and having the kit would save an additional model.

[Fly4victory]

Start off with the new verses the old.

New on the left, old on the right.

The kits, decals, stickers and instructions are identical.

The only difference is the new box has a glossy finish and slightly different printing on the front and side.

The older box has a dull finish and is lacking the 25th anniversary sticker.

You can tell you have a old kit because the water slide decals will be an ivoryish yellow thanks to age. The stickers have not changed color but I wonder if they will stick.

[Fly4victory]

The exterior white parts of the lower legs are made from the interior parts of the donor kit.

The first thing to do is remove the outer Green SAP part from the leg, if your model is already assembled.

You will need the lower fin, aft landing gear door mounts, and engine housing hinge mount as one part.

The other two mounting points: engine foot hinge and leg center post can be used as couplers to connect the two white out parts of the leg.

Since I have two sets of Green parts I butchered one for the fins and internals with a hand saw.

The plastic used on these kits is very soft and melts as opposed to being ground by my drumel so the tool of choice is now replaced by files, knives, and a hand saw.

Once the fin has been removed and the excess trimmed away, use a file and expand the opening of the landing gear well on the white outer leg half to fit the new part.

The base of the Green fin will fit flush with the exterior of the leg then modify the two pins to attach of the Green couplers.

When the two halves of the legs fit together the aft landing gear door will be too long. Simply sand the edge to match the contour of the leg.

The landing gear will not fit in the wheel well. A small part of the interior hinge and mount for the aft door will need to be cut to make room for the wheel. The cut in the mount should be a semi-circle only slightly larger than diameter of the tire.

THE ONLY GLUE USED up to this point has been ON THE MOUNT for the aft landing gear door.

Edit: Photo showing the Fin part cleaned and instructions.

Edited August 15, 2008 by Fly4victory

[renkenjutsu]

So I'll need two kits to make this work? o.o;;;

[Fly4victory]

You don't need two kits exactly.

What you need is to replace parts B7 and B8 with something else.

1. Can use lots of putty to shape the exterior part of the leg and figure out how to install the aft landing gear door A10.

2. Recast A3 and A5 with the internal attachments and the fins from B7 and B8.

3. Manufacture A3 and A5 with polystyrene sheets.

4. Find the B-club kit or a recast.

You will still need to keep B7, B8 (minus fin) and A4, A6 to make the SAP leg armor.

I hate shaping putty, do not have the materials to recast, polystyrene sheets are being shipped, do not have the B-club kit.

It boils down to the Time, Money, Skill formula. I am sacrificing money (cost of a kit that I already have) for the time it would take to do the other options.

No matter what, the panel lines on the exterior of the legs will need to be carved or painted and the project will require Styrene and putty even if you had the B-club kit since it is for Battroid only.

Edit: bad typing.

Edited July 24, 2008 by Fly4victory

[Less than Super Ostrich]

You don't need two kits exactly.

What you need is to replace parts B7 and B8 with something else.

1. Can use lots of putty to shape the exterior part of the leg and figure out how to install the aft landing gear door A10.

2. Recast A3 and A5 with the internal attachments and the fins from B7 and B8.

3. Manufacture A3 and A5 with polystyrene sheets.

4. Find the B-club kit or a recast.

You will still need to keep B7, B8 (minus fin) and A4, A6 to make the SAP leg armor.

I hate shaping putty, do not have the materials to recast, polystyrene sheets are being shipped, do not have the B-club kit.

It boils down to the Time, Money, Skill formula. I am sacrificing money (cost of a kit that I already have) for the time it would take to do the other options.

On matter what the panel lines on the exterior of the legs will need to be carved or painted and the project will require Styrene and putty even if you had the B-club kit since it is for Battroid only.

Samurai Monkey made a recast. I was glad he did it, but it was one of his first. The quality of resin and the casting was pretty poor. He's gotten much better.

[Fly4victory]

Thanks,

Yeah his models are excellent. Those recasts were made almost four years ago if not more?

If Samurai Monkey has these for sale again please post a link here.

[Fly4victory]

Once the fin is trimmed and fitted everything should fit together like this.

Please note how the landing gear door is still long. This helps keep everything lined up.

Now glue the fin to the inside of the exterior leg panel.

DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING ELSE.

Once the glue is dry the two halves of the legs should separate.

Edit: Added photo of two halves separated.

Edited July 25, 2008 by Fly4victory

[Fly4victory]

The connecting pins on the dark gray rail gun, parts C21 and C30, are visible from the front and bottom.

File down the front female connector on C21 just enough for the front pin on C30 to still engage and hold.

Cut away the second and third connectors on C21 and C30.

I used wire cutters and a knife. Be careful not to remove the interior line details. Some minor sculpting will be required where the connectors and pins were.

The front of B15 and B16 have a depression where the opening of the bore should be. Remove the depression with a knife and then file the edge to match the interior contour. Remove the "cap" from the first hole in B15 and B16 and sand smooth.

Glue B15 and B16 together.

File the seams flush between B15 and B16. Three panel lines are missing on the bottom of these parts. Once you have finish sanded use a hobby knife and cut the three panel lines on the bottom of B15 and B16.

You can also use a hobby knife and square file and remove the large post inside the back of B15 and B16.

Edit: Added photo showing view down the modified rail gun and new panel lines. .

Edited July 27, 2008 by Fly4victory

[Fly4victory]

Glue the forearms together, B1 B2 and B3 B4 with the PC parts installed.

Once the glue is dry cut the SAP armor away from the forearms parallel to the panel line.

It will take four cuts one for each side and two from the top please review the modified instructions.

[MechTech]

Looking great man! I love that kit. I think it's cool the way the nose tucks into the chest area. Your kit won't have the heaviness of resin and drooping some recasts may. - MT

[Fly4victory]

Thanks.

For the time it was a good kit but have been spoiled by some of Bandai recent releases.

Would have been perfect with a few different pieces and more parts molded in color.

I hope that since Bandai is back in the Macross business again we will see a larger improved VF-2SS and VF-17.

[Fly4victory]

Part B22 is square under the attaching point of B23.

Use a hobby knife and flat file to remove the excess plastic creating a tab for B23.

Use the file to round the bottom edge under B23.

Fill with putty the small gap between the inside edge and the mounting post.

Smooth the putty with a stick from the square hole in the bottom of B22.

Once the putty is dry and sanded flush the bottom square hole will be filled.

[Fly4victory]

The bottom of B12 and B17 have mold marks that need to be filled.

On B17 the two circles just forward of C8.

On B12 there are raised diagonal lines that must remain but the little circles need to removed. Fill holes with putty. Use a hobby knife to cut the two raised circles down and contour the panel line.

Edit: fixed instructions.

Edited August 15, 2008 by Fly4victory

[Fly4victory]

Before assembling the head, mask the clear green lens D2. Leave a pull tab so you can remove the tape later.

Glue A30 and A31 as shown in step 8 and putty the seam.

Wrap masking tape around the base of PC G and the top of a bamboo skewer.

Once sanded the head will be ready for priming and painting.

The skewer just makes it easier to work with the head when painting.

[Valkyrie addict]

woa...nice, keep it up

[Fly4victory]

Mech Tech and Valk Addict want to trade projects?

The stuff you guys are doing looks more interesting.

[Fly4victory]

Paint the interior cockpit A24 and pilot A25 and assemble them as shown in the first sequence of Step 5.

Mask the clear green canopy D1 after installing A24, A25 and E10.

Install but do not glue the nose wheel into E15.

Insert the nose wheel assembly and cockpit assembly into A17.

Test fit A16 and then remove A16.

Glue A16 to A17. You can use the landing gear as a handle.

[Fly4victory]

Filled the exterior of each leg with white putty, sanded, and then re-coated again with thinned red putty.

Painted the seams on the parts shown with the thinned red putty.

The thinned red putty shows surface imperfections just like primer and is a helpful step before priming. The multi-layer coloring is also useful as a gauge when sanding after putty and primer.

Edit: Fixed photo.

Also was over-zealous cutting the channels on the leg armor to fit around the fins when mounted to the legs.

Edited July 28, 2008 by Fly4victory

[Valkyrie addict]

hahaha!!! we could, but yours look more complicated, you are doing some serious modding also on the kit to make the SAP removable

and man, MechTech Deadalous scares the crap out of me, I have no skills for that!

[Fly4victory]

I'd end up the winner in a trade with you.

But, Yeah if I had talent I'd build my own aircraft carrier but that thing would never touch the water. It would end up as a museum display piece.

[Fly4victory]

Now the fun finally begins. Time to start building and not just assembling.

Part A1 is almost but not quite since it is both wings and a locking plate for Battroid and annoyingly hollow behind the locking plate.

Cut off the three mounting pins from the back of A1.

Use a hobby knife and split the wings and locking plate down the center.

Use a file and sand down the locking plate to the contour of the wing.

Use sheet styrene .08 and manufacture the part to insert into each wing.

Rough cut the parts large and then file to fit.

Once fitted glue the manufactured parts inside each wing.

When the glue is dry, fill and sand to match the contour of the wing.

[Fly4victory]

Cut two rectangles the size of the opening in the top of the forearms.

The aft interior will need to be sloped to fit.

File the front center with a semi-round file to create a channel for PC E to rotate. You can also cut a small amount from the back of PC E.

The rectangle should fit flush at the top and tight at the edges.

Glue and fill the seams.

[Fly4victory]

Cut a piece of styrene the outline of the arm and rough sand top to the contour of the arm.

I left my pieces large so they can be finish sanded with the original arm.

Edit: Glue in place.

Edited July 30, 2008 by Fly4victory

[Fly4victory]

Take your second B22 and cut the tabs from both sides.

Sand the two mounting points flush on the bottom.

File off the attaching point for the B24 and B25 assembly.

Cut out the square under B23 as with the first B22.

Fill the panel lines and under B23.

Or use the first B22 and cut pieces of styrene to build a second backpack.

Even if using a second kit you will need a part similar to this later.

Edit: Sorry, The reason for two backpacks. The panel lines on the Battroid are different than the SAP also they are different colors. Please see additional photo.

Edited July 30, 2008 by Fly4victory

[Fly4victory]

Sand down the two tabs on the bottom of A7 with the outer edge.

Remove the two posts on the top of A7 and file the surface flush.

[Fly4victory]

Parts from the second kit.

Glue B5 to B10 and B6 to B9 without PC E.

Sand each side and contour to the same angle as the front.

Cut the lower extension behind the exhaust port.

Cut just to the inside of each bulkhead where PC E would have been installed.

If the cut was not square, file to fit.

Rotate the exhaust piece 180 degrees and glue.

[Fly4victory]

Cut two small squares from the Green Parts Tree.

Sand to fit the square hole in the bottom of B22.

Glue so the top surface is flush on both B22 backpacks.

[Fly4victory]

The SAP sits too high on the back.

Sand down the two mounting tubes inside B22 and the four posts that would have engaged B9 and B10.

Fill the inside of B9 and B10 around the mounting holes.

Install both PC E.

Glue B5 and B6 to B10 and B9, respectively, as shown in Step 10.

Cut a grove in B5 and B6 under the rectangle hole on each side. The grove should allow each side tab on B22 to sit flush with the bottom.

Fill the rectangle hole and seams.

Edit: Sanding the mounting post lowers the backpack and SAP unit closer to the aircraft. Raising the engines closes the gap between the cannon assembly and backpack hiding the gray swing arm.

Edited July 31, 2008 by Fly4victory

[Fly4victory]

For the non-SAP backpack B22 cut a small fin shape and glue to the front.

If using two model kits just use the front part of an extra leg fin.

[Fly4victory]

Take A4 and A6, drill a 3mm hole next to the forward mounting pin.

Insert magnet into the hole.

Check fit, you may need to remove some plastic from B7 and B8 under the magnet.

Glue A4 and A6 to B7 and B8, respectively.

Use the leg assemblies to maintain the correct angle while the parts dry.

[Valkyrie addict]

damn, that's a lot of pieces you're working on there, one thing I never liked about the BanDai kit is that they make to many movable part and when the thing is assembled it's a seam line nightmare, it looks like most of yours will be covered by the SAP

[Fly4victory]

The way the kit was is why this thing stayed in the box so long.

[Fly4victory]

Not much done in the past few days, hate when work interrupts fun.

Installed the magnets on the airframe for holding the backpack and inside the engines to hold the SAP leg armor.

Taped the armor, placed the magnet and then dropped some epoxy.

Installed the magnets on the wings and sanded.

Primered what parts I could.

Forearms done minus some finish sanding.

[Fly4victory]

After the epoxy is dry on the airframe, trim any excess. It is difficult to see but it is shaped like an I beam.

Now fit the styrene backpack to the bottom of the airframe.

This part is required for the tail section (minus SAP) when in fighter mode.