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Posted

I'm not sure if this should get a sticky or not. But since we're starting a NEW Toys section this should be important. If you have ANY problems with your 1/48 line, then feel free to post as required.

VF-1A Hikaru Ichijo

VF-1A Maximilian Jenius

VF-1S Roy Focker

VF-1A Low-Visibility

For future releases.

1/48 Super/Strike Fast Pack Upgrades

VF-1J Hikaru Ichijo (SDF: Macross)

Posted

My VF-1S has the infamous 'beauty mark', but other than that, all three of my 1/48ths are in pretty much perfect shape.

Posted

My low-vis Has paint smudges on the right side of the cockpit, and the antenae on the back pack has a stress mark right off the box. Also, my friend's 1S 1/48 has that beauty mark on the right side of the head.

Vic.

Posted

My valkyrie does all these crazy things. . . like it transforms into a robot. And then sometimes, if I get really confused while trying to fix it, it turns into this half-bird, half-robot thing. HELP!

H

P.S. Hopefully we can have this thread point back to the archived thread when it is available on Friday?

Posted

...and if it is, can you please tell me how you did it?

Thanks!

Posted

Am I missing a part?

How do I transform this?

Where do the stickers go?

I think mine is broken?

Get the idea? You post your concern and someone answers it. I'm going to close the other topics and delete the new ones that come up. That is unless it is a new current toy. In that case all the broken parts and repairs will be new news.

Please just state your concern and another can state a solution. Let's not turn this thread in to debate.

Posted
Am I missing a part?

How do I transform this?

Where do the stickers go?

I think mine is broken?

Get the idea? You post your concern and someone answers it. I'm going to close the other topics and delete the new ones that come up. That is unless it is a new current toy. In that case all the broken parts and repairs will be new news.

Please just state your concern and another can state a solution. Let's not turn this thread in to debate.

I documented the process of repairing a 1/3000 SDF-1 main cannons with lots of pic in a walkthrough... Do I put that here, in customizing toys, or what? It will probably end up being a link to a walkthrough on my site but I still would like to know where to post my repair walkthroughs like the "step-by-step diss-assemble/re-assemble a 1/55.

Posted

This really isn't a problem with the product, but I broke the backpack hinge on my 1/48 Low Viz the first time transforming it. :(

It's my first 1/48, so this may be old news to most of you, but I'm just letting everyone know to be careful with the backpack when converting it to battroid mode.

Posted

Gah, my 1S has it all, the beuty mark, loose canopy, and crooked skull on the tail. Still since I keep it in batroid mode most of the time the canopy and crooked skull can't be noticed and I fixed the pimple.

Posted
This really isn't a problem with the product, but I broke the backpack hinge on my 1/48 Low Viz the first time transforming it. :(

It's my first 1/48, so this may be old news to most of you, but I'm just letting everyone know to be careful with the backpack when converting it to battroid mode.

Oh man rob, sorry to hear that, you should have read Graham's review a while back, he made mention of the delicate nature of the backpack joint.

Posted (edited)

vf-11b fp has a problem with keeping the shield attached to the arm. The shield keeps falling off, no matter how hard I try to press it into the 2 notches on the arm. I guess I'll just glue the shield onto the arm. I think someone had posted that the shield peg could be filed down for a better fit?

I didn't have this problem with the vf11b 1st edition.

I like the way it looks and transforms. There's just this shield problem.

addendum:

Looks like the shield is too curved to lie flat against the arm, so that the pegs cannot be solidly attached. I'll go get my modelling glue. :(

Edited by boinger
Posted
vf-11b fp has a problem with keeping the shield attached to the arm. The shield keeps falling off, no matter how hard I try to press it into the 2 notches on the arm. I guess I'll just glue the shield onto the arm. I think someone had posted that the shield peg could be filed down for a better fit?

I didn't have this problem with the vf11b 1st edition.

I like the way it looks and transforms. There's just this shield problem.

addendum:

Looks like the shield is too curved to lie flat against the arm, so that the pegs cannot be solidly attached. I'll go get my modelling glue. :(

i had the same problem with the shield. i tried filing the peg a bit but that just mades things worse. ive remedied the problem by putting masking tape around the main peg which keeps it firmly in place. thing is, if you glue the shield on, wont it make the transformation a little arkward?

Posted

My 1/48 VF-1S doesn't have a yellow radome on the backpack. It's just plain white. I checked on my Hikaru model and that was painted red. Was my VF-1S incomplete or did everyone else have this problem as well? Or was it meant to be white?

Posted
My 1/48 VF-1S doesn't have a yellow radome on the backpack. It's just plain white. I checked on my Hikaru model and that was painted red. Was my VF-1S incomplete or did everyone else have this problem as well? Or was it meant to be white?

I think it was confirmed that Roy's valk doesn't have a yellow circle on his backpack.

Posted
You're right. I didn't glue the vf-11b shield. Looks nice as long as I don't touch it. <_<

well i taped down the shield on the VF-11B to see if it hampers the transformation and have found it doesnt get in the way. however, if you are tempted to glue the shield on, remember you wont be able to take it back off again so only do it if you are absolutely sure you want to

Posted

1/60 hikaru 1A-cracked nose legf joint insertion point. Pointed out by shawn on his first production sample. Hips are incredibly loose as hell and made me DECIDE no to get more 1/6 and insted focus on 1/48 and 1/72

Jetfire-this thing is awesome. Bought used. First one metal shoulder joint broke. 2nd works likea charm. almnsot as old as me(19) and works like a charm

Bandai reissue 1A hikaru-often overlooked but absolutely BEAUTIFUL wait no complaints LOL

MPC-VF1J rick-dear god the fingers SUCK! Hands are worseless being on balljoints. Cant hold gun with one hand without looking limped and very stupid. Swing bars do not lock into place well in battroid unlike bandai and tend to scrape off stickers in the processs. Paint job is not too good. Legs do not stay up well in fighter mode. NMot to mention look stupid and because of design inefficiencies dont stay together well period.

MPC-VF1A-sad to say ben hasa better toy than rick. much btter leg joints AND MAGNETS. paint job same as above. same with swing bars. Finger problem..again as above

MPc would hav been BETTER had they jsut jacked bandais slip out slip in no finger articulation. bandai looks imposiing holding gun by one hand

MPC looks likea joke doin the same unless its brnad new

keep in mind i lvoe my MPCs but i can be brutally honeest

Posted
Cant hold gun with one hand without looking limped and very stupid. as

Kinda like the Yamato 1/48's... <_<

I had a similar problem with my VF-11, and I DO remember someone having a solution. If they could post it here, it'd be really helpful. (nudge, nudge, wink, wink, know-what-I-mean, know-what-I-mean)

Now my Hikaru 1/48 has a real problem, though. The "c" shaped clips that hold the hip-bar in place in fighter and gerwalk modes tend to be weak. The rear tab on the right set broke off after just a few careful transformations. I think someone recommended liquid nails, but I'm not sure that it'll work. :unsure:

Suggestions, anyone?

Thanks!

Posted

1/72 YF-19 - As with everyone else's First Edition, the infamous Tab B is broken.

1/60 VF-1J Super Valkyrie (Hikaru Type) - orange reflector on left shoulder in Battroid mode is missing. Remedied this by painting panel clear orange.

1/48 VF-1S - Left hinge holding the backpack was poorly molded, leaving a 1mm opening. As a result, the backpack tends to flop backwards in Battroid mode. The clip on the back of the Valk can't even support the backpack. Canopy hinge is loose; cannot display in open position. Skull emblem on right tail fin is crooked, but hardly noticeable.

Posted
You're right.  I didn't glue the vf-11b shield.  Looks nice as long as I don't touch it. <_<

well i taped down the shield on the VF-11B to see if it hampers the transformation and have found it doesnt get in the way. however, if you are tempted to glue the shield on, remember you wont be able to take it back off again so only do it if you are absolutely sure you want to

Huh!? The Heat shield on mine stays on fine. I just folded the tabs in the back like the instructions said. it stays on with no problems. :ph34r:

Posted
You're right.  I didn't glue the vf-11b shield.  Looks nice as long as I don't touch it. <_<

well i taped down the shield on the VF-11B to see if it hampers the transformation and have found it doesnt get in the way. however, if you are tempted to glue the shield on, remember you wont be able to take it back off again so only do it if you are absolutely sure you want to

Huh!? The Heat shield on mine stays on fine. I just folded the tabs in the back like the instructions said. it stays on with no problems. :ph34r:

I think he is talking about the shield that fits on the arm if I am not mistaken....I could be wrong though. As for the heat shield, I never could get that to fit right either! I wound up cutting of the tabs and using double sided tape to attach it to the canopy. :)

Posted

I was talking about the shield on the left forearm. I think I have some double sided sticky tape. Thanks for the idea.

Posted

I've just noticed that on my 1/48 Hikaru VF-1A toys, the paint is cracking on the red ankle circles.

Has anybody else noticed this?

Graham

Posted

How do I prevent cracking of the bottom edge of the air intake? Happened twice now with both my VF-1A/S. What's it due to?

Posted
How do I prevent cracking of the bottom edge of the air intake? Happened twice now with both my VF-1A/S. What's it due to?

You are talking about the 1/48 right?

Any photos?

Are you using something hard (like a screwdriver) to pry off the intake covers? That could be causing the cracking.

Graham

Posted
I've just noticed that on my 1/48 Hikaru VF-1A toys, the paint is cracking on the red ankle circles.

Has anybody else noticed this?

Graham

I don't think I've asked before Graham. Which (of the three) VF-1A Hikaru's is getting cracked paint? I sure hope it isn't all of them.......and were any of them the prototypes?

So far mine don't have any blotches or cracks (knock on wood). :ph34r:

Posted
I've just noticed that on my 1/48 Hikaru VF-1A toys, the paint is cracking on the red ankle circles.

Has anybody else noticed this?

Graham

I don't think I've asked before Graham. Which (of the three) VF-1A Hikaru's is getting cracked paint? I sure hope it isn't all of them.......and were any of them the prototypes?

So far mine don't have any blotches or cracks (knock on wood). :ph34r:

Yep all three have it on the inner and outer ankle circles.

I've noticed that the paint on the ankle circles of the Hikaru VF-1A seems to be more gloss than on the Max or Focker.

The paint is not flaking off or peeling, it's just got some very fine hairline cracks allowing the white underneath to show through. It's weird, it's sorta like the paint has stretched and split or something.

Here's a pic to show what I mean, and it's not a scratch, it's definitely a crack or split in the paint.

Graham

Posted
I've just noticed that on my 1/48 Hikaru VF-1A toys, the paint is cracking on the red ankle circles.

Has anybody else noticed this?

Graham

I don't think I've asked before Graham. Which (of the three) VF-1A Hikaru's is getting cracked paint? I sure hope it isn't all of them.......and were any of them the prototypes?

So far mine don't have any blotches or cracks (knock on wood). :ph34r:

Yep all three have it on the inner and outer ankle circles.

I've noticed that the paint on the ankle circles of the Hikaru VF-1A seems to be more gloss than on the Max or Focker.

The paint is not flaking off or peeling, it's just got some very fine hairline cracks allowing the white underneath to show through. It's weird, it's sorta like the paint has stretched and split or something.

Here's a pic to show what I mean, and it's not a scratch, it's definitely a crack or split in the paint.

Graham

looks to me like they ussed a gloss paint over a matt, i ussed to do this for effect ussing black over white and vise versa. They could also not of had enough flex agent in the paint to match the growth of the plastic material,,,or not let the plastic cure enough before painting it, mold cooling times and paint additives can all add to this problem, i hope someone makes this apparent to yamato

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