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Arcadia: 1/60 VF 1S Roy Focker Special Movie Ver

kengiu

By kengiu
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HardlyNever Bridge Bunny

HardlyNever

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the detailed response, Diva. I was looking at the thing more this morning, and came to realize basically what you were saying. The problem is, I wasn't able to glue the broken hinge back into the exact perfect position, so it hangs out a bit, making it even more likely to catch the bottom of the backplate. The good news is, I was able to get the backpack back in fighter position (following your advice), I just had to be EXTREMELY careful.

Since it has the super parts and the backpack needs to be up even in fighter mode to have the fastpack on, I'll probably just leave it up most of the time. It is nice to know I can get it back down, if I really want to, though. Thanks again for the help.

no3Ljm Hory Froating Head

no3Ljm

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The Diva formerly known as Chronocidal. ;)

Does anyone have comparison pics with the VF-1S TV version?

Would be interesting to see how the white compares

I don't have pics but it has the same white as the Yamato TV Roy 1S.

Edited by no3Ljm
HardlyNever Bridge Bunny

HardlyNever

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:blink: Oh sorry Chrono, didn't realize this board had ranks like that. Well, thanks for the help, Chrono. Unfortunately, I'm having another issue now, that I posted in the noob FAQ thread. I'll going to copy it below, if anyone can help, that would be amazing:

"My specific issue is I can't seem to get the die-cast flaps that are on either side of the cock-pit totally raised and flush with the chest piece. I'm already seeing some whitening of the plastic near one of the shoulder hinges, so I really don't want to force anything. I'm not sure if this is an issue other people have, but even in the transformation videos to battroid from gerwalk, that particular step seems to be one people have some trouble with (separating the two die cast flaps from the chest piece).

I guess I'll just leave it in battroid for a while."

no3Ljm Hory Froating Head

no3Ljm

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Too much overwatch, I guess. At least she has a mech.

*snip*

You can post this in the Video Games thread though. Just saying. ;)

Edited by no3Ljm
Chronocidal Super Dimension Member

Chronocidal

Posted
Posted

:blink: Oh sorry Chrono, didn't realize this board had ranks like that. Well, thanks for the help, Chrono. Unfortunately, I'm having another issue now, that I posted in the noob FAQ thread. I'll going to copy it below, if anyone can help, that would be amazing:

"My specific issue is I can't seem to get the die-cast flaps that are on either side of the cock-pit totally raised and flush with the chest piece. I'm already seeing some whitening of the plastic near one of the shoulder hinges, so I really don't want to force anything. I'm not sure if this is an issue other people have, but even in the transformation videos to battroid from gerwalk, that particular step seems to be one people have some trouble with (separating the two die cast flaps from the chest piece).

I guess I'll just leave it in battroid for a while."

Have to admit, I'm not sure which die-cast flaps you mean. Are you talking about the plate that the intakes attach to on the underside? That's a single piece that the cockpit slides onto, and you have to pull the nose down/forward before you can slip the chest plate back behind the cockpit. If you want to play it safe, you can actually pull the nose section entirely off the plate, fold the chest down, and then reattach the nose afterward, but you have to be careful to fold the neck joint out of the way to get it back on.

David Hingtgen Super Dimension Member

David Hingtgen

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The tint is more purplish than pink

"Bandai ultraviolet white". Most common in Gundams, but a good DX example is a renewal Alto.

Far better than being pink.

HardlyNever Bridge Bunny

HardlyNever

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Have to admit, I'm not sure which die-cast flaps you mean. Are you talking about the plate that the intakes attach to on the underside? That's a single piece that the cockpit slides onto, and you have to pull the nose down/forward before you can slip the chest plate back behind the cockpit. If you want to play it safe, you can actually pull the nose section entirely off the plate, fold the chest down, and then reattach the nose afterward, but you have to be careful to fold the neck joint out of the way to get it back on.

Thanks again for the help, Chronocidal. A bit of context was lost on that post above. I'm actually trying to go from battroid > gerwalk here (I was asking for reverse transformation videos in that post). Below are the die-cast metal flaps I'm talking about:

post-31632-0-29376200-1473030975_thumb.jpg

post-31632-0-90188000-1473030979_thumb.jpg

I can't get them to align properly with the chest plate above. I can get it closer than it shows in the picture, but it feels like I'm forcing things. Any help getting it back into the position for gerwalk/fighter mode would be great.

On a related note, I've noticed a white weak area on one of the plastic pieces that serves as a sort of hinge.

post-31632-0-16201100-1473031117_thumb.jpg

Besides obviously being careful about any transforming that involves that spot (which is kinda what my post is about), any advice on what to do about that? That white line goes through to the other side of that piece, but it isn't as visible. Is there any way to reinforce/protect that area in anyway? I've had the toy less than a week and I feel like I'm going to break something else on it (besides the tail-flap hinge I posted about earlier). Clearly I'm doing something(s) wrong when transforming this thing.

Chronocidal Super Dimension Member

Chronocidal

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I think what's probably keeping it from going back to gerwalk is most likely that the nose isn't pulled out far enough to let the chest plate sink back down and lock. The nose has to slide back and forth on that metal plate that the two tabs are on, and it can be really tight at first.

Negotiator Pineapple Eater

Negotiator

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yes, pull out the nose...wiggle it if you have to, but the worst that can happen is if the nose comes out completely , which is fine because that's a feature... just slide it back in along the rails.

Sildani SMS Squadron Leader

Sildani

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Agreed, the nose must be pulled forward more. Then everything should fall into place.

erizai Destroid Armour Waxer

erizai

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Great tips sharing Chrono, I had bent my VF-1J once, now I applied the same Technic every time when transforming...

Received and open my two boxes of Roy, happy with it... :wub:

Few things I noticed,

The white is nice, on the plane, no pink like the Hikaru, (the white has some hint of yellow tint, off white they called which is good)

Missiles holder still using left over pink part

SS part is having a green tint (I would call it a dark green) is it good? as I don't have the SS part before.

The box art is nice, I think I will keep the box, until i really have space issue, before scrapping it. Probably take photo to keep as digital. :rolleyes:

HardlyNever Bridge Bunny

HardlyNever

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Thanks guys! That was the issue. I had removed (and replaced) the nose on an earlier transformation trying to get the heat shield back in place (it seemed really stiff at first, but the heat shield slides pretty easily now). I moved the nose about a quarter-inch forward and everything lined up.

Any advice about the white stress mark on that plate (besides "be careful when transforming it")? Is there anything I can do to strengthen that area at all? If I had to guess, it probably happened when I was going from gerwalk>battroid the first time, but I'm not really sure.

Thanks again for all the help.

no3Ljm Hory Froating Head

no3Ljm

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Glad that it worked out fine. ;)

Regarding the shoulder plates, yeah, I think the only thing you can do for now is be careful transforming it.

Edited by no3Ljm
neko878 Destroid Armour Waxer

neko878

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Question.

With the strike pack on in battroid mode, is it normally kinda back heavy? I have to adjust the figure from falling backwards.

jenius Super Dimension Member

jenius

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Question.

With the strike pack on in battroid mode, is it normally kinda back heavy? I have to adjust the figure from falling backwards.

Where is it pivoting that causes it to fall backwards? at the hips? at the feet? Have you recessed the feet in battroid mode? Obviously there is more weight back there so some poses may not work but I don't remember a neutral pose being a problem with the strike parts attached.

no3Ljm Hory Froating Head

no3Ljm

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Question.

With the strike pack on in battroid mode, is it normally kinda back heavy? I have to adjust the figure from falling backwards.

A little bit heavy but not too much that the Valk can handle. What you can do too is to angle the hip joint outward or the knee joint outward. And spread the legs apart. Hope that helps. ;)

Sildani SMS Squadron Leader

Sildani

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Pivoting the strike cannon forward will help too.

Hikuro Galactic Diva

Hikuro

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Still waiting for mine via SAL

LMAO! That's gonna be some long ass wait time.

Sigh......wish I could afford one these days....but nope.

F360 SMS Squadron Leader

F360

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Question.

With the strike pack on in battroid mode, is it normally kinda back heavy? I have to adjust the figure from falling backwards.

it's best to take a pic :) front and side view prefer

treatment Galactic Diva

treatment

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it's best to take a pic :) front and side view prefer

I do agree with this suggestion.

I'm sure some (if not all) of us will spot the particular issue of your valk falling backwards when you show us a pic of how you display it.

no3Ljm Hory Froating Head

no3Ljm

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Question about additional markings: Are they stickers or waterslides?

I'm aware the previous Arcadia VF-1Ss included both, but wanted to confirm for this release.

Stickers.

I didn't know that they've included waterslide decal on Arcadia Hikaru 1S. Didn't bother on checking the stuff at the back of the container for that one. :lol:

Edited by no3Ljm
Roi_Fokka ARMD Deck Swabber

Roi_Fokka

Posted
Posted

Stickers.

I didn't know that they've included waterslide decal on Arcadia Hikaru 1S. Didn't bother on checking the stuff at the back of the container for that one. :lol:

Ah, gotcha and thank you.

Yeah, I feel more comfortable working with waterslides so maybe I'll look into getting a custom sheet.

neko878 Destroid Armour Waxer

neko878

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the tips everyone!

I got it adjusted where it stands better.

image.jpg

Edited by neko878

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