Poll: Is your v.2 1/60 VF-1S broken or perfect?

[David Hingtgen]

Lifting doesn't help. I think I was the first person on the forum to propose that, and have done it every time. I spend multiple minutes each time just on the shoulders, very carefully and gently easing it up and over while holding my breath in fear of breaking it---didn't help at all, it cracked like all the others.

[Vi-RS]

One of my Roy Fokker VF-1S comes with busted canopy right from the box, it seems like Roy was hit with couple shots in his cockpits.

The actual problem is the rainbow coating, which was sprayed on the inside of canopy, is cracking and peeling off. I wonder who has this problem before?

[shadow strikers]

So this poll is to see actual numbers.

Only vote if you actually own a V.2 Yamato 1/60 VF-1S.

FROM NOW ON A VOTE FOR BROKEN MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY AN EXPLANATION OR IT WILL NOT BE CONSIDERED A TRUE VOTE.

wasn't a topic like this already made?

[treatment]

(miriya @ Jul 23 2008, 03:25 PM) *

So this poll is to see actual numbers.

Only vote if you actually own a V.2 Yamato 1/60 VF-1S.

FROM NOW ON A VOTE FOR BROKEN MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY AN EXPLANATION OR IT WILL NOT BE CONSIDERED A TRUE VOTE.

wasn't a topic like this already made?

why are you responding to a post from LAST YEAR?

[gingaio]

Just wondering if anyone's had any shoulder problems with the 1/60 TV Max & Cannon Fodder.

[Ignacio Ocamica]

Only my Focker VF-1S Strike developed a crack in the left shoulder. All the others are fine!!!!

TV Max is one of my most transformed VF's and it's holding together just fine. Haven't received my three CF's yet

[eugimon]

I have the 1s fokker, 1j hikaru, 1j cf, 1d hikaru and the 1a tv max... only the fokker developed a crack and only in the other shoulder.

They all get transformed on a semi regular basis.

[JCSaves]

All 4 so good so far.

Edited August 14, 2009 by JCSaves

[gingaio]

Thanks, all. Hoping to pick up the TV Max (my favorite color/head scheme) and possibly the CF. Glad the design/QC kinks seem to have gotten worked out.

[M. Frost]

quick question, I just got mine from a seller on here, but without instructions. Any warnings while I transform him again?

& um...how do I put the head down? the gray part just sticks up...

[m0n5t3r]

you have to push up the whole detachable cockpit section...

[M. Frost]

Ah, got it. lol Thanks!

really nice compared to my 1/48th.

[Chronocidal]

Well, sad to report a couple of problems, but hopefully I can fix them.

Just got a Roy -1S and Hikaru -1A, and both have visible problems in both shoulders out of the box (neither even transformed yet, I just pulled the legs down to check the shoulders). The Roy has stress marks (possibly hairline cracks) on both shoulders, while the Hikaru has a large crack on the right shoulder, and a stressmark on the left.

Apparently this is what I get for jumping on HLJ's free shipping

So, now the question is what's the most reliable fix? Will Overdrive sell you replacements if you didn't buy from them? And do they even have replacements with the fixed pins yet?

Really, since none of the parts have actually broken fully, I'm tempted to just coat the whole assembly in super glue around that area. If I knew pulling out the pins and filing them down wouldn't break the already stressed hinges, I'd do that in a heartbeat.

What I really need is one of those do-it-yourself 3d printers they have now.. I'd redesign the part from scratch.

Oh well, for now everything stays in fighter mode.

Edit: Btw.. are the wings supposed to have detents? Mine all move smoothly, with no restriction.

Edited October 3, 2009 by Chronocidal

[m0n5t3r]

Really, since none of the parts have actually broken fully, I'm tempted to just coat the whole assembly in super glue around that area. If I knew pulling out the pins and filing them down wouldn't break the already stressed hinges, I'd do that in a heartbeat.

sad to hear...

it's possible to push the pin out w/out breaking it or having it crack... did it on one hinge that already had stress marks and micro cracks on the top part... still hasn't cracked all the way since 8 months ago even w/ repeated transforming and posing...

[David Hingtgen]

How'd you get the pins out? I plan to order replacement parts, but since they're almost as likely to break, I'd like to try to repair the originals.

[eugimon]

metal works well

[m0n5t3r]

How'd you get the pins out? I plan to order replacement parts, but since they're almost as likely to break, I'd like to try to repair the originals.

just soak the part where the pin is w/ some oil... i tried it once w/out oil and it was so much harder to push it out... w/ oil it took me less than a minute to push out the knurled part, then i pulled out the rest w/ pliers... then i filed the knurling...

also, filing the knurling for cracked hinges may be ideal before gluing the cracked hinge...

[Chronocidal]

That's what I'm planning to do, provided I can get the pins out.. basically, pull the pins to file down, then rebuild the part a bit by soaking the breaking areas with superglue, and redrilling the holes to fit. I may try to reinforce the part too, but dunno how I'd want to do it.

I'm almost tempted to try making a new part altogether from scrap styrene (or shoot, maybe some aluminum sheet), but I don't know how that might hold up.

[Foblander]

When you are transforming the v2 1/60 vf-1 from fighter to battroid, does it feel like it takes some force to flip the tail vent over? I get paranoid it is going to break because of the amount of force it takes. Just doesn't feel like a smooth transition. Is there a trick to it? Thanks. So far it has been fine but I just want to make sure I am transforming it correctly. Thanks

[Chronocidal]

Interesting discovery I just made a minute ago..

So I just tried out the fast packs on my 1S (just fighter mode to keep the arms immobile), and noticed the same problem others have been having.. the two antennas on the back plate are scratching up the tail paint. I've only folded up the tails a few times, and already there are shiny spots in the paint.

I reduced the potential for damage a little by sanding down the rear antenna a bit, while leaving the front one taller. Now the rubbing will only be along the back edge of the tail (and hopefully easier to cover up).

But something I noticed when I mounted the fast packs.. the tails aren't lying flat. It's probably a combination of the hinge tightness, and thickness of the tails that makes them not like lying completely flat, but with the fast packs mounted, the tails are being forced against those antennas by the fast packs. I removed the boosters from the center bracket, and attached just the bracket to be sure. The bracket doesn't push the tails at all.

The 1/48 missed this problem entirely since it had the collapsing antenna piece, but there's also one other thing the 1/48 did that took me a while to notice. On my Hikaru Super 1J, there's a rather large indentation on the underside of the left booster. For a long time I thought it was a mold flaw, or some kind of manufacturing defect, but it's actually a cut out for the tail. They cut a part of the booster away to give room for the tails to sit flush, since in the 1/48 there's no room between the backplate and the tails.

The 1/60 left booster doesn't have this cutout. If it did, the tails probably would have plenty of breathing room, since they wouldn't be pressed down by that booster.

Now, I'm not quite sure I want to file away a piece of my booster pack to duplicate the fix, but it's definitely something that got overlooked this time around.

[m0n5t3r]

Interesting discovery I just made a minute ago..

So I just tried out the fast packs on my 1S (just fighter mode to keep the arms immobile), and noticed the same problem others have been having.. the two antennas on the back plate are scratching up the tail paint. I've only folded up the tails a few times, and already there are shiny spots in the paint.

I reduced the potential for damage a little by sanding down the rear antenna a bit, while leaving the front one taller. Now the rubbing will only be along the back edge of the tail (and hopefully easier to cover up).

SNIP

what i did was remove the heatshield and left the part w/ the antennae pushed down in Fighter/Gerwalk w/ FPs.

[David Hingtgen]

The tailfins not folding flat is something I noticed right away---it's like a flaw in the design or something---like Yamato "forgot" how to get the fins to lie flat on top of each other---the 1/60 v1 does pretty well, the 1/48 does it great--but the v2 has like 10 degrees of "not flat" when the fins are folded---there needs to be an offset hinge to allow for one to lay on top of another FLAT. It's not there, or not enough. Regardless of boosters, the fins don't lay flat, and that's why they rub the antenna.

[Chronocidal]

Well, without the boosters it's not so much of a problem, even if they aren't perfectly flat. Long as you don't have anything pressing them down, the tails are fine. Only time they'd normally be held down is if you use the clip, and considering how tight the tail section joints are on mine, I don't see myself ever using that, even with fast packs (the booster clip seems to hold itself up extremely well).

The problem is when you add the left booster (using the right booster only leaves a small gap between the antennas and the tail, so there is room there). That booster presses on the right tail, and since it's the first one folded down, the small amount it moves forces the other tail down quite a bit. Even fixing the hinges to lie flat wouldn't fix this, since both tails are being pushed down by the booster.

I guess the question to ask is, has anyone scratched their tails without using fast packs?

Edited October 4, 2009 by Chronocidal

[eugimon]

yeah, I think I did. Almost makes me wanna buy a dupe just to use if for gerwalk/FP. either that or get one of those electronic screen guard films and apply it.

[Chronocidal]

Gah.. sad as it is, I'm almost convinced I should just clip the dumb antennas off (maybe replace them with a softer material).. accuracy be damned, I want my paint to last.

Least this won't be a problem with the 1J's if I get em later.. Hikaru's tails are blank, and if I file down the rear antenna on the M&Ms, the big one will only press behind the white tail stripe. I just hope they've fixed the shoulder issues by the time I get those.. I thought I was safer waiting a year on my Roy, but I still got broken shoulders.

[sidearmsalpha]

The tailfins not folding flat is something I noticed right away---it's like a flaw in the design or something---like Yamato "forgot" how to get the fins to lie flat on top of each other---the 1/60 v1 does pretty well, the 1/48 does it great--but the v2 has like 10 degrees of "not flat" when the fins are folded---there needs to be an offset hinge to allow for one to lay on top of another FLAT. It's not there, or not enough. Regardless of boosters, the fins don't lay flat, and that's why they rub the antenna.

One more reason to love my 1/48's even more in Battroid mode and more of a reason to just leave the Ver.2 1/60's in Fighter mode. And I'm tempted to clip off that damn stupid hook they designed to hold the backpack up in Battroid mode. It ruins the Fighter/Gerwalk modes for me.

[Chronocidal]

Well, my coffee table either looks like a VF-1 assembly line, or crash site, take your pick. I took apart my Roy and Hikaru 1A last night to get at the arm hinges, and every time I look at these things, I get more scared at how tight they are. There's already stress marks on the joints that connect the backplate to the chest, and while they're much beefier than the arms, I wouldn't be surprised if those fail at some point.

Anywho, the shoulders are all coated in superglue now. Although I managed to crack one of the hinge points while forcing the pins out, everything seems sturdy enough.

I'm thinking though, I may just replace the hinge pins altogether. I don't mind the shoulders a bit sloppy if it means they don't break, so I may replace the pins with segments of a paperclip.. slightly smaller, so I don't have to bore out the holes after adding the glue, giving the pieces a bit more material around the joint. How I'll keep the new pins in, I dunno yet.. I might just put a drop of glue on them, and assume they won't need fixing again.

It's a lot easier than grinding down the existing pins to fit the smaller holes, and I'd rather not stress the parts out by drilling the holes bigger again.

Hopefully this'll last a long time, but at the very least, it should last long enough for Yamato to update the replacement parts to use the smaller pins.

Edited October 7, 2009 by Chronocidal

[Javier]

Solved YAMATO the problem on the arm of the VF-1S Roy 1 / 60??? I want to buy it but I need to know if the problem still has the arm

Regards !

[Chronocidal]

I think any Roy is a crapshoot. I waited over a year to buy mine and it still had busted shoulders, same for my Hikaru 1A.

On the brighter side of things, I just got my Hikaru 1J from Overdrive, and it's got the updated shoulders with the smaller pins (no updated nose hatch though).

[Uxi]

How is the Hikaru 1S? And the CF VF-1A? I was considering getting both of these.

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

How is the Hikaru 1S? And the CF VF-1A? I was considering getting both of these.

CF has the un-knurled hinges, and the upcoming Strike Hikaru 1S with flashlight should be okay too. Basically anything that came out after Max is okay, the Max versions were the 1st to have no knurling on the pins Edited October 24, 2009 by Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0

[DarkEyes]

Hi guys, anyone has pictures of this un-knurled hinges? Im wondering if should buy a VF-1S LV, Im a little scared about this shoulder problem.

Edited October 24, 2009 by DarkEyes

[Dashgtr]

Anyone have this problem? One of the fin is lossed and keep dropping down. Unable to keep it in place. Something inside seems broken. Just collected it yesterday and took out for a check and spotted it.

[David Hingtgen]

Definitely sounds like it's broken inside from that description. Have you tried opening it up to see if it's easily fixable? Of course, since that feature is ONLY needed for GBP armor, it might be easier to just glue it permanently in place.

Personally I think that's one of the dumber design features of the new VF-1----an ugly, easily-broken hinge in the middle of the fin, that is ONLY needed for an obscure armor that doesn't go with 90% of valks, that 90% of owners won't buy anyways.

[Dashgtr]

i"m going to bring it back to the shop to see if i can exchange.

Definitely sounds like it's broken inside from that description. Have you tried opening it up to see if it's easily fixable? Of course, since that feature is ONLY needed for GBP armor, it might be easier to just glue it permanently in place.

Personally I think that's one of the dumber design features of the new VF-1----an ugly, easily-broken hinge in the middle of the fin, that is ONLY needed for an obscure armor that doesn't go with 90% of valks, that 90% of owners won't buy anyways.