QuinJester Posted March 26, 2008 Posted March 26, 2008 So... I know this is a huge long shot, but a long long time ago, in a galaxy far far awa.. uh.. anyway, once upon a time, someone had recast BP8 pieces, and I was never able to get one for my own long-broken VF-1J Stealth set. Is it possible in some way or some fashion to get a replacement BP8, either official or recast, without buying up a parted or broken Valk (or, for that matter, is anyone parting out a broken 1/48, preferably black, that I can pick a BP-8 from?) anymore?
Oihan Posted March 30, 2008 Posted March 30, 2008 (edited) Hello, I recently got the YAMATO 1/48 25th Anniversary VF-1S. I was able to transform it from Fighter mode to Battroid mode just fine and vice versa...but I've run into a problem (I think). When I swung the arms back into place (back into fighter mode) I noticed there's a notch on both plastic pieces; these pieces can be swiveled around 180 degress (for Battroid mode). The problem I'm running into is that I can't lock the arms onto these notches to keep them in place...so the arms remain loose. Is this intended, or am I going to have to file these notches thinner so that the arms can lock onto them in Fighter mode? Thanks! Edit: I've ran a search for "VF-1S"...read all of those posts and found nothing dealing with my situation. Edited March 30, 2008 by Oihan
VFTF1 Posted March 30, 2008 Posted March 30, 2008 Maybe give us some pictures? And don't file anything - I have no clue what the problem here is - but the 1/48s are solid - I don't recall any complaints about them; and I have 3 different ones and all of them work fine - one of the best and most quality models made by Yamato. VFTF1
mikepie Posted April 12, 2008 Posted April 12, 2008 (edited) Hi Fellow Macross Fans, I'm new to this forum. I just received my first 1/48 scale VF-1J a few days ago and noticed one of the black circles that plug into the arm has popped out. I seem to have lost the part. Does anybody have a spare black circle plug the they don't need? (Maybe off a broken part that was replaced?) I would hate to have to order a replacement arm for this one part. Please see picture below. Thanks! Edited April 12, 2008 by mikepie
LunchMeat Posted April 24, 2008 Posted April 24, 2008 Hi there. I apologize in advance for this long post. This is also my first post on this board, so I apologize if I'm breaking some rules; please let me know. I'd like to let you know about the quality problems I've had with my 1/48 scale Yamato VF-1A AngelBirds Valkyrie. This was my first Valkyrie, in fact my first toy from Yamato, and my first Macross toy of any kind, unless you cound Transformers Jetfire when I was kid. I had considered getting one for a long time, and had mainly admired them from afar, but had heard nothing but praise for them (largely on this forum). It is a generally well-designed toy, but since I got it, it seems everything has been breaking. This may be my fault: I am the sort of person who actually plays with his toys, and I transform it usually at least once a day. I handle it respectfully, of course, but that hasn't stopped some damage. Most of the problems I fixed myself with the creative application of Crazy Glue, but the "straw that broke the camel's back" was when one of the pins holding the heatshield on broke. I can't Crazy Glue the heatshield, because that type of plastic doesn't react well with Crazy Glue. I wrote a letter to Yamato USA, who, of course, couldn't help me, and they suggested that I come here. So I am. Below is the letter I wrote to Yamato USA in full, including the list of things that broke. Take this for what it's worth. I'd be interested in your (collective) opinion on this. Did I get an exceptional, incorrectly assembled product? Are they all like this? Should I stop playing with it? And of course I'd be grateful if anyone could help me resolve my two remaining problems (described at the end of the letter). To whom it may concern, I recently purchased one of your company's 1/48 scale Macross VF-1A AngelBirds, based partly on their reputation for being high-quality toys and partly on my own deep interest in transforming robot toys. This was the first toy I've bought from your company, and for the most part, I was pleased: this is an indeed a masterfully designed toy, far more elegant and thoughtful than the transforming robot toys commercially available in this country. Although I am an adult who handles his toys with care and respect, there were some issues of quality with this particular toy. While unfortunate, I was able to resolve most of them myself (usually with the help of Crazy Glue). I would ask for your help and advice in resolving the remaining issues. Although I am aware that my situation is somewhat unusual, in that I did not buy this toy through the usual retail channels, but through an importer specializing in providing Japanese toys to an American audience, I hope that this will not be a problem in getting technical support for your company. Here are the issues that I've resolved: Pin holding swing bar into cavity below cockpit broke, resulting in unstable robot mode. Solution: Crazy Glue. Rubber pads escaping from hip ball-and-socket joint. Solution: disassemble hip assembly, reseat rubber pad. Small fins on either side of cockpit come unglued. Solution: Crazy Glue. Ratched hip joint, behind air intake (gray components of R-L2) unglued and popped out, resulting in de-ratcheting of leg. Solution: partial disassembly of leg and crazy glue. Tranlucent red plastic "light" on left leg piece L-L9 fell out fell out at first touch. Solution: Crazy Glue. Metal pin assembly connected BD1 to BC1 came disconnected, resulting in chest piece partially hanging off. Probably incorrectly assembled. Solution: unscrew plastic pin fastener piece on BC1, re-insert pin into metal socket (with significant use of force), and rescrew fastner piece. Rear end of gun pod becomes unglued, resulting in gunpod falling apart. Solution: Crazy Glue. Tiny "fin" BP10 on backpack falls out during transformation. This is probably not so much a manufacturing error, but a design error, since there doesn't seem to be much holding the piece in place. Solution: using Crazy Glue, applied a small plastic cover to BP10 keeping it in place without impeding movement. Back of left hand L-A5 fell of, resulting in the fingers falling out as well. Solution: Crazy Glue. Floppy airbreak on BC1. Solution: clear nail polish applied to joint. And here are the problems that I have not yet resolved: Tow hook BD8 on front landing gear falls off. Solution: none yet. Pin broke off heatshield, heat shield no longer connects. Crazy Glue does not work on heat shield. Solution: none yet. The second of these unresolved problems is the most distressing to me, since the design of the retracting heatshield is brilliant and one of my favorite parts of the toy. Since I can't repair it myself, the only solution may be to somehow acquire a replacement heatshield. Any assistance that you can provide in this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and have a nice day. Sincerely, <my real name>
Hikuro Posted April 28, 2008 Posted April 28, 2008 Well!...............crap....now my Vf-0A needs a new head .........don't ask. I'm REALLY close to selling it for spare parts....I really am.
whitestar Posted April 28, 2008 Posted April 28, 2008 Thought I would de-lurk for a while to post a question. I finally bought a YF-19 with fast pack and was disappointed to find out that the shoulders are loose. As far as I can tell, the shoulder "pads" are glued together, so there's no easy way for me to get to the shoulder joints to apply some form of glue or clear nail polish. The arms are just a hot, floppy mess. It can't raise its arms at the shoulder joint to any degree. I read and re-read the YF-19 fix/mod thread and did not find anything that could help me. Thanks! I posted this to the YF-19 fix/mod thread as well. I apologize for the cross-posting
::NXS:: Posted May 16, 2008 Posted May 16, 2008 Well!...............crap....now my Vf-0A needs a new head .........don't ask. I'm REALLY close to selling it for spare parts....I really am. Mine has a really loose cannon... Any ideas on how to fix that? like it only stays pointing vertically up, or pointing fwd, like shooting pose... Now, if I could just make it stiffer for a more normal 60 degrees backwards position... tipical laser position for As....
ruskiiVFaussie Posted May 18, 2008 Posted May 18, 2008 (edited) Mine's loose too, i will try to attempt to remove the laser (unscrew?) and lavish a bit of clear nail polish and that should make it stay where you want it to. Edited May 18, 2008 by ruskiiVFaussie
UN_MARINE Posted May 18, 2008 Posted May 18, 2008 I just found a fracture on my YF 19 !!! back of the hip. top intake part on fighter mode, where the gray hip joint inserts into. it's also happening on the other hip too. so far, it's just a stress mark... you guys might want to check yours too. mine's the 1st ed. w/o FP's and i thought i had a problem-free run with my yamatos... i just felt the suck. oh well, it gives me an excuse to panel line it.
::NXS:: Posted May 19, 2008 Posted May 19, 2008 (edited) Mine's loose too, i will try to attempt to remove the laser (unscrew?) and lavish a bit of clear nail polish and that should make it stay where you want it to. Great idea, gonna try that, I ask my girlfriend for some Npolish.... any directions to remove and dissaemble the head? Nevermind, I found the screw under the neck, and removed the back cap of the head (ther dark grey piece with nice detail).... I think I will stop dissasembling here and just drop some nail polish into the hinge. Edited May 20, 2008 by ::NXS::
LordDremen Posted May 20, 2008 Posted May 20, 2008 I only have 2 gripes concerning the right leg, the first is a loose landing gear door below the blue landing light and the whole right calf tends to be looser and wobbly.
VF5SS Posted May 23, 2008 Posted May 23, 2008 Is there any way to remove the screw caps on an SV-51? I need to fix the arm.
fifbeat Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 (edited) Man... I have a Yamato VF-1S Roy Focker 1/48 (that I bought back in 2004, I think). Anyways, I guess the joints have become loose enough to the point that the thing barely stands on its own (in battroid mode) with the Strike Armor parts... Usually starts fall on its back. So I have to lean him against the wall... Anyone have this same problem? Since it was my first 1/48, I admit I probably transformed him several times, etc. (at least). I'm not so sure if it's the joints at the hips; probably moreso the joints at the V-feet... Been bugging the heck out of me! Any "repairs" to make those joints tighter; or any other tricks of the trade? Thanks. Edited May 30, 2008 by fifbeat
hal9000 Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 Man... I have a Yamato VF-1S Roy Focker 1/48 (that I bought back in 2004, I think). Anyways, I guess the joints have become loose enough to the point that the thing barely stands on its own (in battroid mode) with the Strike Armor parts... Usually starts fall on its back. So I have to lean him against the wall... Anyone have this same problem? Since it was my first 1/48, I admit I probably transformed him several times, etc. (at least). I'm not so sure if it's the joints at the hips; probably moreso the joints at the V-feet... Been bugging the heck out of me! Any "repairs" to make those joints tighter; or any other tricks of the trade? Thanks. I think Disasemble and cote in clear nail polish is the standerd aproche to a lose any thing, just did it to my 0S 1st ed's hips hope it works. will know monday night.
fifbeat Posted June 3, 2008 Posted June 3, 2008 I think Disasemble and cote in clear nail polish is the standerd aproche to a lose any thing, just did it to my 0S 1st ed's hips hope it works. will know monday night. Thanks. =)
m0n5t3r Posted June 8, 2008 Posted June 8, 2008 (edited) the thigh joint/swivel on my sv-51 nora has become a little loose... will tightening the screw located on the inside thigh make it tighter? Edited June 8, 2008 by m0n5t3r
Renato Posted June 30, 2008 Posted June 30, 2008 the thigh joint/swivel on my sv-51 nora has become a little loose... will tightening the screw located on the inside thigh make it tighter? I doubt that will make a difference... rather, make sure that the lower part of the thigh is not the problem, because mine became loose for a bit and then just fell apart. See my post here (with pics): http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...mp;#entry618532
Hikuro Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 Here's one, guys can poitn me to the thread page if ya wanted if it's been spoken of, got a YF-19 with fastpacks (all in one not seperate deals) and I thought the crooked gunpod issue was fixed with the fastpack version? So is there a real simple way of fixing this issue? I also got that shoulder gap on the left between the shoulder and the armor of the shoulder itself. Thought all these issues were corrected?
Peyoro Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 Hi, I never looked closer to my 1/48 Vf-1s, and I noticed these failure in the exhausts, left side don´t fit when closed... Any1, noticed this? Or is just mine?? Well, this is a QC fact about paint,... and I tought my Yamato was perfect... These looks like someone scratched or sanded this piece after assembly, a finish hand detail, but they don´t look the same in both sides... On the left side, looks crappy: They're minor details, except for the exhaust opening, but Just wanted to share,... Any recommendations?
Sumdumgai Posted July 5, 2008 Posted July 5, 2008 My 1/48 VF-1J Miria doesn't have the gap in the exhaust on the left side. Neither does my Low Vis v1. I'm not going to check my VF-1A Max, since I'd have to move some stuff to get at it... So I can't check for the leg stripe either. Picture 4 is a QC issue. The plugs on my three 1/48s are fine on both sides.
DWN013 Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 (edited) I noticed this yesterday... on my 1/60 YF-21, in the main gear wheel wells, the white paint is starting to get kinda messed up where the tires touch the surface when stowed. I guess rubber and paint don't play well together, since the nose gear wheel on my SV-51 removed some of the white paint from the mudguard. Not really a big deal but I was wondering if this has happened to anyone else's YF-21s. Edited September 2, 2008 by DWN013
Father Jack Posted September 3, 2008 Posted September 3, 2008 This might have been covered before, but I will ask anyway. I was finally able to purchase a 1/48 Hikaru vf1, and everything was fine except for one thing. On the hip joints where the swingbar attaches to the leg a split formed on both legs at the joint. also there appears to be a black rubber disk slowly working it's way out of the hip. Is this a problem? It doesn't seem normal but, on the otherhand there are no stress marks, and the joint is still tight. Any help would be most appreciated.
Vegas Posted September 4, 2008 Posted September 4, 2008 This might have been covered before, but I will ask anyway. I was finally able to purchase a 1/48 Hikaru vf1, and everything was fine except for one thing. On the hip joints where the swingbar attaches to the leg a split formed on both legs at the joint. also there appears to be a black rubber disk slowly working it's way out of the hip. Is this a problem? It doesn't seem normal but, on the otherhand there are no stress marks, and the joint is still tight. Any help would be most appreciated. not really a problem. my vf-1s had that too. its an easy fix pull out that problem leg and put that black rubber thingy in place
Sumdumgai Posted September 6, 2008 Posted September 6, 2008 My YF-21 developed a problem with one of its legs. The ratchet knee-joint stopped being a ratchet joint and was just smoothly moving around (making in unstable to use to make the YF-21 stand). Be happy if you never have to take apart the legs of the YF-21, had to pry off the screw covers and dismantle the entire leg to get at the ratchet. It's only partially fixed now, but the important part is to keep pressure on the sides of the knee when you reassemble it, or else the disc that's key to the ratchet joint might slip and you go back to square one.
flash Posted September 10, 2008 Posted September 10, 2008 Apparently I have a 1/48 that is missing one of the sets of clear plastic "lights" on the right wing. Anyone know how or where I can get one to replace the one that's missing? I'm assuming it came from teh factory that way, as it's been displayed for awhile and not played with. (1/48 roy Fokker) - Right wing. Thanks
QuinJester Posted September 18, 2008 Posted September 18, 2008 Found the first real problem with my YF-19, and it's in the neck... but not at all the place you would think. The cream colored plastic has cracked almost in half (and it's just been sitting on display for the last few months, so I have no clue when this might have happened) at the base of the gullet where the grey hinge that attaches to the battroid torso piece swings/next to the hip joints. As a result, the torso pretty much just falls off when transforming it, and there's a pretty clear and annoying crack on display in fighter mode . It's awfully disappointing considering the 19 really is one of my favorite designs, ever.
Sumdumgai Posted September 20, 2008 Posted September 20, 2008 Quin, can you take a picture of what you're talking about? Maybe we can all wrap our heads around it and figure out what happened.
QuinJester Posted September 20, 2008 Posted September 20, 2008 Quin, can you take a picture of what you're talking about? Maybe we can all wrap our heads around it and figure out what happened. Sure, I can post a couple of pics. It's fortunately hidden in Battroid mode, but in fighter mode... It's sort of glued down now (I hope), you can see some of the ACC residue on the back end and on the grey hinge. The counfounding thing is that it really isn't any sort of high-stress area, at all. It's just like the plastic said "nope! I'm done!" and cracked in half. It's not like I go around twisting the neck sideways during transformation, either. The thing's been changed from fighter to battroid mode maybe 5 times, tops, and I've always been careful with it.
Sumdumgai Posted September 21, 2008 Posted September 21, 2008 Do you press the hips in a lot to try to minimize the gap in fighter mode? I'm perplexed how this could happen too. Or has anyone else had access to your YF-19? Any friends that are Macross fans that might have played with it without asking?
QuinJester Posted September 21, 2008 Posted September 21, 2008 Do you press the hips in a lot to try to minimize the gap in fighter mode? I'm perplexed how this could happen too. Or has anyone else had access to your YF-19? Any friends that are Macross fans that might have played with it without asking? Yes to the first, most definitely not to the second. The only things I can think of that might cause strain there during any sort of movement or adjusting would be angling the hips out in battroid mode, but to think that the plastic itself would give like that from such secondary pressure is boggling.
Sumdumgai Posted September 23, 2008 Posted September 23, 2008 I'm at a loss here. I constantly press the hips to minimize the gap in fighter mode, probably with more pressure than I should too. Maybe the plastic is thinner there on your YF-19? I just can't think of anything that would cause a crack like that to happen, other than what you thought of.
adrianop Posted October 23, 2008 Posted October 23, 2008 My VF-1S ver2 seems to have some gray paints chip/rub off, particularly the lasers on the headpiece. Anybody have suggestions on how to repaint these?
Scrapnasty Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 (edited) VF-0S leg issue. Someone tell me I'm not alone? Firstly let me say that the bird is amazing looking. It's big, its tampo'd and its not nearly as yellow as the pictures I've seen online make him look. There was tape on all sides of the inside packing where the ghost package was connected to the fighter plastic. You know what I'm talking about, that vacuum sealed stuff. Anyway I notice the tail fins had been folded down, good sign that I got a good figure. After removing the fighter, I quickly inspected the foot thrusters to make sure they locked; another sign of a fixed figure. They do! Excellent, all looks to be well. Although there is a slight gap in one of the figures legs. I shrug it off thinking its not that bad. Transform it into Gerwalk and it looks ok. Gerwalk has never been my absolute favorite and the Zero is kind of a fighter/battroid dude for me. I did take the liberty to check the shoulders by giving them a rotating and what not. Seem firm and not loose at all which is very nice. So I begin to transform him into battroid when I notice something odd. The leg with the gap on it doesn't rotate on the swing bar like it should. You know when you have to turn the legs a little bit to get it ready to slide into the slot on the nosecone. Well I try it again and using a little bit more force, only this just causes the joint right behind the intake to go down. I feel that if I apply any more pressure it'll only break the figure which I'm not about to do. It's a very bizarre problem that I don't think I've ever read about. It's also very disheartening considering the premium I finally shelled out to make sure I didn't get a broken figure. TL;DR: One leg on my Zero is not working properly. Even the landing gear is odd. The one on the good leg has some play like its on a ball joint inside the bay while the broken leg does nothing. Edited : I'm awesome, its just a fact. I disassembled the hips after accidentally pulling them out of the legs. Removed the screws and it turns out there's some rubber inside the hips to give them friction. Well the rubber on the bad leg was stuck to the ball joint making it unable to rotate. I took it off the joint and returned it to the slot it was supposed to be in. All is well! Kind of. The hip bar is also extremely stiff. After messing with it for a while i managed to get it to bend which resulted in paint scraping. No big deal! It's glorious!!! Not going to waste my time on the landing gear at the moment. Edited November 7, 2008 by Scrapnasty
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