505thAirborne Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 Thanks 505th for the pics! But you got me confused there. When you said 'Arcadia is the same color as the Arcadia', did you meant the Valk whites? If you meant the SSP's, then the Arcadia one has the same color as the Yamato's? Is that correct? Anyways, from the looks of it, the only difference of both SSP armors would be the white parts of the missiles(?). Again, thanks for this pic comparison. Can't wait to get mine so I can compare them myself. I've been rockin a Migraine most of the day so brain is at half capacity. I think I meant to say Yamato vs. Arcadia. I saw alot of people were concerned whether the older (Yamato) SSP's color would be the same as the Arcadia. And as far as I can see they look virtually identical. As for the Valkyries themselves, Hikaru's looks like a faded old car on the Lot with the Yamato off-white compared to Roy with Arcadia's super white finish! You're going to be very happy with your new VF, guaranteed!! Quote
erizai Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 For the Strike pack I preferred blue tint than green tint, just me. Quote
Vi-RS Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 As for the Valkyries themselves, Hikaru's looks like a faded old car on the Lot with the Yamato off-white compared to Roy with Arcadia's super white finish! That's what defines the beauty of the Yamato off-white over the lately pinky white. It has such a distinctive weathered appearance. I have white cars, but it's always the off-white with a tint of yellowish into it, Quote
auberondreaming Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 Congrats on the new valks everyone! Still waiting on mine, surprising how you can still be excited for a new v2 (considering this is my 3rd Roy even)! Sounds like for some of you this is your first Yamato/Arcadia V2! They are still the pinnacle of Macross toys in my opinion, solid as rocks, not complicated to transform and fun to handle without fear of breaking every small protrusion. For you new owners, some words of wisdom from experience. I have broken off the flap piece on the backpack on two v2 Valks. The flap has 2 pins on either side to hold them to the backpack, and the housing that holds those pins snapped in half. Not even sure how it happened, and easy to fix, just be careful. For me the hardest part of the transformation has always been the "breaking the back" when you separate the chest from the back in plane/gerwalk mode. It takes force, and the tabs are beefy and can take it. Any other tips for new owners? Quote
QEssential Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 Quick question: Are the fast packs the same colour as the older Yamato versions? This one looks more blue to me. Also. Will prolly skip this release. Already have the previous Yamato versions so don't see any reason to get this. But heck love this box art on this one. Tempted to buy one just for the box. lol Quote
jenius Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 Yes, previous conversation indicates a change in hue though not dramatic. Quote
505thAirborne Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 That's what defines the beauty of the Yamato off-white over the lately pinky white. It has such a distinctive weathered appearance. I have white cars, but it's always the off-white with a tint of yellowish into it, I totally agree, I really wish Arcadia would try doing the off-white more often, gives the Valks that unique look. Thankfully my VF-1S is "pinky" free, just straight white. Quote
Boobytrap Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 So my OCD won't allow me to apply any of the stickers. Drives me nuts seeing a sticker sheet with blanks spots. Does anyone have any recommendations for where I could get some decals for the skull squadron insignia that goes on the super/strike pack? Any way someone could do a scan of the sticker sheet and print it on a decal sheet? Quote
Sandman Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 Normally my ocd is the same as yours. My first Roy 1S 1/60 version 2 which i got when it first came out was very unlucky. Some of the problems it had: 2 broken shoulders broken canard when i tried to bed it forward red clear part on the leg had its paint stripped from a flightprose stand the list goes on..... With everything going wrong with this toy i decided to use the sticker sheet. Since it comes with all the different versions of the skull and un spacy round stickers, i used them all for my other valks as well. This way i didn't have to use the other valk's sticker sheets. Quote
neko878 Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 Just got the VF-1S from the post office today. It is nicely detailed and I am happy with this purchase. The first thing I noticed was how much smaller and lighter in weight the VF-1S is compared to the VF-0S.The bright white color of the VF-0S look like off white now compared to the SUPER WHITE color of the VF-1S. Quote
Slave IV Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 Just got the VF-1S from the post office today. It is nicely detailed and I am happy with this purchase. The first thing I noticed was how much smaller and lighter in weight the VF-1S is compared to the VF-0S. The bright white color of the VF-0S look like off white now compared to the SUPER WHITE color of the VF-1S. They look great together! I was surprised at how big the VF-0S was when I got that! That thing is a beast and the best made Valkyrie toy I own. It doesn't mean as much to me as the VF-1 though...Can't wait to get mine from slow ass SAL. Quote
erizai Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 The white looked good, the SS part color look nice to me, collecting mine today, yipee... Hope my calibrated screen not fooling me ... Quote
mickyg Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Whoa! So it only comes with the strike pack? The old releases had both super parts, plus the strike cannon. Probably a smart cost cutting measure but I'm still a bit surprised. Quote
treatment Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Whoa! So it only comes with the strike pack? The old releases had both super parts, plus the strike cannon. Probably a smart cost cutting measure but I'm still a bit surprised. uhmm... Quote
Sildani Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) Yeahp. Look closely, it doesn't have 3 top leg armor parts. Edited September 1, 2016 by Sildani Quote
505thAirborne Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Whoa! So it only comes with the strike pack? The old releases had both super parts, plus the strike cannon. Probably a smart cost cutting measure but I'm still a bit surprised. Includes the Super, Strike & Option parts as well, Arcadia missed nothing with this release! Quote
mickyg Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) DOH! I completely forgot the front detaches and it's not a whole booster. OK, comment respectfully retracted... Edited September 1, 2016 by mickyg Quote
wmkjr Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 What?! There's no 3 top leg armor parts? Order cancelled. Seriously though maybe I should get one just to get matching colored missiles . Quote
Valkyrie addict Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 I didn't get this cause I already have too much Fockers around, but those pics with matching reactive missiles and FP are soooo nice Enjoy it guys!! Quote
macrosszeroz Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) I received my VF-1S on Tuesday and I also have an Arcadia VF-0S. But my VF-0S is off white. Just got the VF-1S from the post office today. It is nicely detailed and I am happy with this purchase. The first thing I noticed was how much smaller and lighter in weight the VF-1S is compared to the VF-0S.The bright white color of the VF-0S look like off white now compared to the SUPER WHITE color of the VF-1S. VF-0S is just so sexy. They look great together! I was surprised at how big the VF-0S was when I got that! That thing is a beast and the best made Valkyrie toy I own. It doesn't mean as much to me as the VF-1 though...Can't wait to get mine from slow ass SAL. Edited September 1, 2016 by macrosszeroz Quote
treatment Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 How much was the shipping fee on this if you'd bought it from Amiami? Quote
Slave IV Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 How much was the shipping fee on this if you'd bought it from Amiami? Another name I recognize from TFW! Howdy! I paid 3,850 for SAL, EMS was 4,500. Quote
treatment Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Another name I recognize from TFW! Howdy! I paid 3,850 for SAL, EMS was 4,500. Thanks, dude! That's very helpful and much appreciated. Welcome to MWF, too! Quote
Scyla Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 So the Skull & Crossbones are still not painted on? That is so sad. Quote
Slave IV Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Thanks, dude! That's very helpful and much appreciated. Welcome to MWF, too! NP and thank you! Quote
MrBig Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Just got this today and as my first macross figure. I'll say that there are only 2 things that aren't fantastic. One is that the shoulders put all the stress on a little piece which feels like it's a brisk movement away from snapping every time I move the arms. Second is that there aren't any waterslide stickers included though the stickers are matte and blend in really well. Tampos would have been perfect, waterslides would have been great, the stickers are good. Cool figure, it doesn't disappoint and I'm really happy to have it! Quote
Chronocidal Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 If you're concerned about the shoulders, it's an easy process to loosen up the pivots they're on. The pair of screws holding them to the backplate can be easily loosened with a screwdriver to give those pivots more room to side over the stops when rotating the arms out from fighter mode. Too loose, and they'll flop around or fall past the stops in battroid though. Though, I'm assuming you mean the folding/rotating piece that attaches under the backplate. If you look up the history of the Yamato v.2 VF-1, those pieces caused a lot of problems early on due to improper assembly/design, and would crack around the metal pins. If you mean that the shoulder joints are too tight to pose easily, and you're worried about snapping off the ball joint, you'll have to gently spread the shoulder covers that are slipped over the top to pop them off, and then you can access the screws holding the joint together to loosen them a little. Can't stress the "gently" part enough, though the covers are fairly easy to glue back together if you happen to pop them apart by accident. Quote
QEssential Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 So the Skull & Crossbones are still not painted on? That is so sad. I think that's because it allows for customization but since they dont make stand alone strike parts anymore they should have just painted it on. Quote
Sildani Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 If Arcadia can't be bothered to tampo a simple red triangle under the canopy, they certainly can't be bothered to tampo a large, complex UN kite. Quote
Chronocidal Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) To be entirely honest, I never liked the individualized colors on the packs. All of the VF-1s used a black tail, so the colored circles seem out of place with the skull to me. Same for the canopy shield really. And figures I'd edit that before refreshing the page, and the next reply mentioned the heat shields. Edited September 2, 2016 by Chronocidal Quote
jenius Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 I'm not disagreeing but they did have different heat shields. Quote
no3Ljm Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) Got mine today. The first thing I check is the color of the Packs just to see if it matches the ol' Yamato DYRL Packs. And here's what I noticed. Strike & Super Parts: - It's 2-4% a little bit darker compared from the Yamato one and a little bit towards yellow on the color. Let's say like 4%. - All Missiles are now using the same white as the Valk. Including the Micro Missiles inside the boosters. VF-1S: - Compared to Arcadia Hikaru white, it's less pink hue. But to be honest, I checked all the white part of this Valk, and it varies. The white color itself is not consistent all throughout. Chest white is kinda has purple hue. Back white has kinda have subtle yellow tint on it. Nosecone area also kinda have that subtle yellow tint on it compared to Hikaru. I don't know if it's just my eye or the light or how the angle is when I'm looking on it. With all this different hue I see on the whites. How I wish somehow that they used their VF-0S white here. But... as much as I liked that VF-0S white, I'm just glad that they didn't use it. Because it will not be the same as my Arcadia Hikaru's VF-1S. But overall, I'm loving it. I mean, it's a VF-1. I'm not gonna bash Arcadia for missing out 'again' the tampos on this release since I'm already used to it. But after seeing the Arcadia-white now on the missiles and whatnot, how I wish they reissue next Hikaru's 1A or 1S. Edited September 2, 2016 by no3Ljm Quote
QEssential Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Does anyone have comparison pics with the VF-1S TV version? Would be interesting to see how the white compares. Quote
HardlyNever Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 (edited) Hey everyone, I'm a complete noob when it comes to macross toys. I received my first one today, which is the same one everyone is posting above (Roy Focker arcadia 1/60 with strike parts). I'm very impressed with the toy so far, except one issue. In true noob form, I've managed to break a part on the backpack(? I'm not sure what it's called). After a few hours, I successfully transformed the toy into battroid and back to fighter mode. However, when I went to move the backpack up again to go into gerwalk mode, the white adjustable flap completely fell out. It looks like one of the hinges that holds the flap had broken 80-90% off. I tried supergluing the hinge, with moderate success. The good news is the hinge is on there, and the flap can still rotate. The bad news is, I don't think I can ever get the backpack down all the way again in fighter mode without the same piece breaking off again. It could be completely my fault (again, I'm a noob), but it does seem like the hinges are a bit... off. Even the side that didn't break. The space for the hinges and the white flap to fit into for fighter mode seem INCREDIBLY tight, and of course one of the hinges is off (because I'm not the greatest at gluing) but even the non-broken one seems uneven. Below are a couple pictures to demonstrate what I mean: The first attached image is the broken side with my mediocre/bad glue job: The second is the unbroken side: Is it possible I got a defective hinge? It's entirely possible it is 100% my fault, but it might not be, as well. Is the area between the arms and the body of the toy supposed to be that tight (I know I can move the arms and put the back pack in first, but that doesn't really change anything). Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Again, I could be doing something very wrong when trying to get the thing back in fighter mode. Right now I feel like if I'd try to put it back in there, the broken hinge would fall off, perhaps entirely. If I need a few more pictures to show what I mean, I can post those. Edited September 3, 2016 by HardlyNever Quote
Chronocidal Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 (edited) Fortunately, that hinge only serves to hold on that little flap, and won't harm the functionality of the valk, even if it falls off really. The way that can break is if you rotate the backpack into fighter mode position in a certain way. If the hinge is open at all, the edge can catch on the part of the backplate that surrounds the arms, and spread that piece, cracking that part off. The way I prevent that catching is I keep the backpack angled up about 45 degrees, then push upwards on the backpack until the hinge bar sinks into the backpack entirely before rotating the pack down to be level. It makes sure that hinge slips under the backplate without rubbing. Edit: Decided pictures might be more helpful. So here's the edge you're catching the hinge on. What I do, is pinch the backpack, pushing up on the thrusters with my thumb, and down on the hinge with my forefinger, until the hinge snaps flush with the upper surface of the backpack. You might need to bend the backpack down a bit more than I have there, but when that hinge snaps in, it'll also snap the broken part past the edge it catches on. Here's a view without fingers. The double pivot for the backpack is flush now, the hinges are past the edge of the backplate, and you can just bend the backpack down level without it catching now. Edited September 3, 2016 by Chronocidal Quote
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