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Posted

It looks like you used Salt AND Pepa, cuz you push it real good!

Oy....gomen! That was bad...

You realise that anyone who wasn't a teenager in 1988,won't know what your on about :)

That said great work as always Mr Cheng.

Posted

William, that looks awesome! TBH, I wasn't sure about how it was looking, at first, but after you put that light coat of blue on in the last pictures it really pulled together. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. :)

Chris

Posted

Finished! Expertly sculpted by Mr. John Moscato. Only the Baby Crabs remain...sorry for the sideways pix, don't understand why.

AMAZING work! The sculpt and the builds!

Did you mount your shock trooper guns differently from each other? The one on the left, the cannons, seem closer to the body.

Looks to me like the gun posts need to be shortened a bit to make them closer to the cockpit area. Hard to tell until I get into the kit someday . . .

Again - very nice work . . .

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Posted

You realise that anyone who wasn't a teenager in 1988,won't know what your on about :)

That said great work as always Mr Cheng.

Thanks! Unfortunately, I was a teenager in the 80s and know all too well :p

Now I know what to do with my F-14 TPS schemes...

Posted (edited)

AMAZING work! The sculpt and the builds!

Did you mount your shock trooper guns differently from each other? The one on the left, the cannons, seem closer to the body.

Looks to me like the gun posts need to be shortened a bit to make them closer to the cockpit area. Hard to tell until I get into the kit someday . . .

Again - very nice work . . .

attachicon.gifTrooperGuns.jpg

Ahhh..yes...the fond memory of those guns....NOT!!! It was an apocolyptic battle to get those guns to sit the way you want them to sit. As these were they first crabs I built, there was a STEEEP learning curve, and the shortning of those posts on the first one almost completely screwed me when it came time to attach the upper shoulder blade parts..so with the 2nd one I decided not to shorten the posts...

Edited by derex3592
Posted (edited)

Salt masking can be a lot of work, but it's the best way to get that faded paint look on carrier-based aircraft like the VF-0. It's also great for rust. Here's the first kit I tried it on:

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Edited by MMORefugee
Posted

Ahhh..yes...the fond memory of those guns....NOT!!! It was an apocolyptic battle to get those guns to sit the way you want them to sit. As these were they first crabs I built, there was a STEEEP learning curve, and the shortning of those posts on the first one almost completely screwed me when it came time to attach the upper shoulder blade parts..so with the 2nd one I decided not to shorten the posts...

It looks like the posts need to be altered to go a little higher, and not so wide . . .

Posted

I thought the Salt and Pepa referance was cool! And not just cause we're all fans of an 80's animated feature! That looks great WM Change. Maybe I'll try it on something big enough to see it on.- MT

Posted

The weathering on the VF-0D looks really amazing so far, and the new shade of blue looks much better.

Just curious, does the salt weathering have any effect as in it eating it away or melting the plastic?

Posted

If I understand the process, you have the salt in contact with the model only the time that you spray a layer of paint and let it dry, then you rinse the salt and clean the model. Repeat 2 times to apply several paint layers and you are done: no salt left on the paint.

Posted (edited)

It's also common practice to use a toothbrush to clean it between salt applications. Worst case scenario: salt gets left in nooks and crannies. I think the only reactions you'd have are with metal. So the risk is pretty minimal.

Edited by mickyg
Posted

I found some salt crystals or re-dried salt water within the joints as I semi-transformed it - but nothing to worry about. Salt is pretty inert on the plastic. I wouldn't recommend using a toothbrush to brush it off as the paint layer is so delicate and thin that it might leave tiny swirls and scratch marks from the bristles. The water rinses the salt off just fine. I just have to handle it delicately until I can clear coat protect it with the Future.

Posted
This was my first attempt at salt-weathering. I just put down a layer of silver, salted, base coat, and hit with a toothbrush. I was happy with what I got.


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Posted

I found some salt crystals or re-dried salt water within the joints as I semi-transformed it - but nothing to worry about. Salt is pretty inert on the plastic. I wouldn't recommend using a toothbrush to brush it off as the paint layer is so delicate and thin that it might leave tiny swirls and scratch marks from the bristles. The water rinses the salt off just fine. I just have to handle it delicately until I can clear coat protect it with the Future.

Good to know the salt won't effect the plastic and not to use a toothbrush, I'll have to try this technique someday. B))

Posted

Cool! You left the raised salt edges eh... neat. I wonder how the actual salt will look if you clear coat it, I wonder if it will dessolve into the clear coat. I removed my salt completely so I was left with a really smooth finish.

Well, I'm stupid and stayed till 1am on a work night (I was wrecked the next day at the office!). But now that I'm on a roll, I really want to get to the decal stage. Basically the panel lines are way too faint to hold any wash as per Arcadia's usual - plus they are inconsistent, some are deeper, some are shallow all in the same line - argh! Why even bother to mold the panel lines when they are so shallow?! Anyways, I basically drew them all in with a really sharp 4H mechanical pencil. Then I used the pencil shavings and a smudge stick and smudged it all around the panel lines, lighter on the white surfaces and darker on the blue surfaces to essentially do a "post-shade" to pick them out a bit. Everything is still quite exaggerated at the moment because when I spray the Clear Coat with Future, it will even a lot out. I need this glossy clear coat to provide a nice smooth base for the decals because the plane is dark, I don't want any silvering to happen. Everything is darkened up due to the glossy clear coat at the moment.

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Once I decal it, the next step is to clear coat the decals again, maybe hit it with a very light mist of grey/blue to tie it all together and a final matte/flat clear coat which will lighten everything back up and blend in the decals. Can't wait to take the masking off!

Posted (edited)

Progress so far. I can now officially say that these SW Bandai kits ROCK! Everything snap fits perfectly. Not one single drop of glue used yet. Even the tiniest parts fit right like they should. Modeling has never been easier. Try them out!

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Edited by derex3592
Posted

Progress so far. I can now officially say that these SW Bandai kits ROCK! Everything snap fits perfectly. Not one single drop of glue used yet. Even the tiniest parts fit right like they should. Modeling has never been easier. Try them out!

The detail on that AT-ST ain't too bad for a snap-tite.

Posted

The detail on that AT-ST ain't too bad for a snap-tite.

The detailing is superb. Wait until you see the cockpit. Easily on par with any of the older FIne-Molds kits. Two Thumbs up so far.

Posted

The detailing is superb. Wait until you see the cockpit. Easily on par with any of the older FIne-Molds kits. Two Thumbs up so far.

I'm very impressed with the quality on it, I remember as a kid (many, many, MANY moons ago), that snap fit kits were junk and you ended up having to use cement anyways cuz the tabs would break or the parts were wobbly. Good luck with the rest of you build, can't wait to more pics on this!

Posted

Here is what I am working on right now, a vf-1s gerwalk, it will be ready by Monday I hope, I just have to finish panel lining, decaling and weathering.

A new thread of this baby will be ready for inspection in less than a week... or so.

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Posted

Alright, I've finished playing Final Fantasy 12 (for the second time), let's get that build train re-rolling!!

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