derex3592 Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 Yer not gonna stick an LED behind that eye?? I have zero practice or skills to try lighting a normal kit, much less a resin one. Quote
Kylwell Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 These guys can get you everythiing you need all pre-soldered, etc. http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ Quote
derex3592 Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 (edited) I may try to light up my 1:500 Bandai Yamato battleship as my first lighting attempt later on in the year if I get to it. That looks like it would be fairly simple to do as it was designed for it. As some around here may recall from like 2 years ago, my very first attempt at lighting an Enterprise D clear kit ended with the POS getting hurled into a wall. I still have all the wiring, LED's and soldering stuff I bought packed up in a box along with another Enterprise D kit for a day a long long long from now to try again. Edited May 14, 2015 by derex3592 Quote
DarrinG Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 I clicked that link and I still am having a hard time picturing what to do with a mecha kit (especially solid resin types) Does the wire stick out to an external battery? Or - is there a small battery you mount inside with just an external switch? If so - how do you get to the battery to change it in the future if its perm mounted inside? What about battery leaking over the years? Quote
derex3592 Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 I don't know--someone would have to be extremely brave IMHO opinion to try to light a solid resin kit--especially one's as nice and $$$ as the Moscato kits. Quote
DarrinG Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 This is what's been on my WB for some time: A rare 1/48th Patlabor - Ground Defense Atlas. The cockpit comes as solid resin, so I sent it to mslz22 for help carving it out. All the headlights you can see on the front molded in resin - I just removed with my new Dremel tool. Going to replace with them with WAVE clear versions. Would be cool to light up the cockpit as well! Not sure I understand how to though. This kit is labor intensive . . . Quote
Noyhauser Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 (edited) Very Very cool DarrinG. Its one of my favourite mecha ever. Have you built the 1/72 Kotobukiya kit? So, I just finished this piece of old-school Soviet Metal.... its an old KP kit of the Su-7, with a lot of Resin and other aftermarket. I rescribed it, and put a fair bit of work into it. Edited May 14, 2015 by Noyhauser Quote
Lt. Z0mBe Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 So much good work here, as always. I am getting really close on this guy. I am building it as one of the unseen from Battletech, the Samurai pictured on the front of the Aerotech game box art. It is built using the old 1/100 Takara kit. It will be finished in Wolf's Dragoons markings. It needs a Future coat, decals, washes, filtering and it should be done. I hope to have it finished by Wonderfest. Comments and criticisms welcome. Kenny Quote
MechTech Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 (edited) Regarding the LED lighting, give it a try! The secret is to plan it out. Hollow models are easier to run the wires or fiber optics through obviously, solid resin parts need to be drilled through to run your wires or fiber optics. If the model is hollow you can put the batteries in it but as was stated, they can leak. You can put the batteries AND the switch in the base. Just put a small connector in the foot and you can disconnect the model from the base. I built a 1/35th Patlabor Alphonse with LEDs in the shoulders. It makes it stand out. Love the Su Noyhauser. Got to see some abandoned ones downrange. Story goes one guy sat in one and pulled the ejection seat handle THINKING it was no longer armed...;-) The fighter looks great Zombie! I managed to get one of those because I love the design. Still gotta see Crusher Joe though!-MT Edited May 15, 2015 by MechTech Quote
DarrinG Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 (edited) Very Very cool DarrinG. Its one of my favourite mecha ever. Have you built the 1/72 Kotobukiya kit? So, I just finished this piece of old-school Soviet Metal.... its an old KP kit of the Su-7, with a lot of Resin and other aftermarket. I rescribed it, and put a fair bit of work into it. GREAT work on the Su-7. I don't care for the Hannibal version that much, I like the original Atlas design much better. And 1/72 seems a little small for that mech. I AM still looking for a few of the old 1/48th Kaiyodo resin kits tho, like the Type Zero and Phantom . . . Edited May 15, 2015 by DarrinG Quote
Lt. Z0mBe Posted May 16, 2015 Posted May 16, 2015 The fighter looks great Zombie! I managed to get one of those because I love the design. Still gotta see Crusher Joe though!-MT Thanks! It's my favorite design in all of sci-fi. I fell in love with it upon seeing the old Aerotech box art. I didn't know about the whole deal with that design being "borrowed" by Fasa. I had to call around to like 10 hobby shops until I found one guy who knew where I could get one. He referred me to the old GTC out in Overland Park, Kansas. That was back in 1994 and I have loved the design ever since and lusted after the 1/100 kits... Kenny Quote
Jefuemon Posted May 17, 2015 Posted May 17, 2015 Finally finished all the painting on the VF-1X-S! Only 5 more to go, plus 6 bases! The others should go a lot faster. Even for a small kit (1/144 scale) this one has a lot of bits to do. Quote
GMK Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 Finally finished all the painting on the VF-1X-S! Only 5 more to go, plus 6 bases! The others should go a lot faster. Even for a small kit (1/144 scale) this one has a lot of bits to do. Which kit is that? It's looking great. Quote
Jefuemon Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 1/144 VF-1X-Plus from Yellow Submarine, from the Macross:Digital Mission VF-X series. Quote
EXO Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 A couple of people have asked me to do a tutorial on how to paint small figures. I've put up instructions here. It's easier than you think. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.925083977551880.1073741850.474949502565332&type=1 Quote
MechTech Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 Great work guys! Zombie - Oh yeah, GTC - Galactic Trade Commission! THE only place (a long time ago) I could find a lot of my models. I bought that guy tickets to Hawaii with all my purchases. Neptunesurvey knows him too. - MT Quote
CoreyD Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 A couple of people have asked me to do a tutorial on how to paint small figures. I've put up instructions here. It's easier than you think. I've always loved working with miniatures. Must be leftovers from my Warhammer 40k days... Quote
wm cheng Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 I couldn't find the old Arcadia 1/60 YF-19 thread... so here's what I just finished! Finally after a year of nakedness... I managed to make some combination of decals, rub-on transfers and some very special help from an old friend on these boards. These are the markings that should have been tampo printed on a $400 toy! The panel lines are too shallow to hold any wash, so I used a very sharp 4H mechanical pencil to line them (the flaps and moveable surfaces are a black wash) and did a very light "post-shading" with pencil filings and a smudge stick (very light since its a new demonstrator aircraft). Finally it was all sealed in with a semi-gloss future clear coat to protect the custom rub-on transfers and post shading. I added a dab of silver to the landing gear struct and it improves it a lot IMHO. I guess the VF-0D is next, but the salt weathering has me cautious. Quote
Ignacio Ocamica Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 Nice subtle weathering!!! All the decals looks printed on!! Quote
spanner Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 I couldn't find the old Arcadia 1/60 YF-19 thread... so here's what I just finished! Finally after a year of nakedness... I managed to make some combination of decals, rub-on transfers and some very special help from an old friend on these boards. These are the markings that should have been tampo printed on a $400 toy! The panel lines are too shallow to hold any wash, so I used a very sharp 4H mechanical pencil to line them (the flaps and moveable surfaces are a black wash) and did a very light "post-shading" with pencil filings and a smudge stick (very light since its a new demonstrator aircraft). Finally it was all sealed in with a semi-gloss future clear coat to protect the custom rub-on transfers and post shading. I added a dab of silver to the landing gear struct and it improves it a lot IMHO. I guess the VF-0D is next, but the salt weathering has me cautious. DSC_1423.JPGDSC_1424.JPGDSC_1426.JPGDSC_1428.JPGDSC_1429.JPG looks sensational! Quote
wm cheng Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 Looks good. Just fyi, NOT $400. Last March I paid 29,750Y + 5,400Y shipping (from NY) which came out to $394.79cdn - luckily NY under-declares so I snuck in under the Customs radar - otherwise its an extra $60-70 on top of that! Joys of being Canadian... argh. Thanks everyone... its been sitting like an eye-sore for too long, glad its finally done. Quote
anubis20 Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 I couldn't find the old Arcadia 1/60 YF-19 thread... so here's what I just finished! Finally after a year of nakedness... I managed to make some combination of decals, rub-on transfers and some very special help from an old friend on these boards. These are the markings that should have been tampo printed on a $400 toy! The panel lines are too shallow to hold any wash, so I used a very sharp 4H mechanical pencil to line them (the flaps and moveable surfaces are a black wash) and did a very light "post-shading" with pencil filings and a smudge stick (very light since its a new demonstrator aircraft). Finally it was all sealed in with a semi-gloss future clear coat to protect the custom rub-on transfers and post shading. I added a dab of silver to the landing gear struct and it improves it a lot IMHO. I guess the VF-0D is next, but the salt weathering has me cautious. DSC_1423.JPGDSC_1424.JPGDSC_1426.JPGDSC_1428.JPGDSC_1429.JPG Looks great! just curious, do you disassemble to complete this whole process? Quote
wm cheng Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 Nope, I just masked out the canopy, the red sensor windows and the feet. The future clear-coat levels out the decals so you don't notice carrier film - but I trim as close as I can anyways. The white lettering is actually rub-on transfer which is amazing, no carrier film at all and super thin. I just lucked into finding a place, our graphics department uses them for props so we snuck it in under the production budget, otherwise its about $100 for a custom sheet of 8x10 - so its pretty pricey but the resolution of the letters is phenomenal! Quote
no3Ljm Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 I couldn't find the old Arcadia 1/60 YF-19 thread... so here's what I just finished! Finally after a year of nakedness... I managed to make some combination of decals, rub-on transfers and some very special help from an old friend on these boards. These are the markings that should have been tampo printed on a $400 toy! The panel lines are too shallow to hold any wash, so I used a very sharp 4H mechanical pencil to line them (the flaps and moveable surfaces are a black wash) and did a very light "post-shading" with pencil filings and a smudge stick (very light since its a new demonstrator aircraft). Finally it was all sealed in with a semi-gloss future clear coat to protect the custom rub-on transfers and post shading. I added a dab of silver to the landing gear struct and it improves it a lot IMHO. I guess the VF-0D is next, but the salt weathering has me cautious. DSC_1423.JPGDSC_1424.JPGDSC_1426.JPGDSC_1428.JPGDSC_1429.JPG Great job Mr. Cheng! Love the subtle look of the decals. Btw, I notice the different shade of beige on the shoulder swivel part and the wing joint that connects to the thigh. Is this because of the top coat or just the lighting effect only? Thanks. Quote
wm cheng Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 Btw, I notice the different shade of beige on the shoulder swivel part and the wing joint that connects to the thigh. Your right, I didn't notice it before, it doesn't look so bad in person, but there is a slight difference between the painted metal parts and the coloured plastic straight out of the box. Maybe the lighting exaggerates the difference, but I don't think its the clear coat. Quote
TMBounty_Hunter Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 A couple of people have asked me to do a tutorial on how to paint small figures. I've put up instructions here. It's easier than you think. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.925083977551880.1073741850.474949502565332&type=1 IMG_5231 (Medium).JPGIMG_5232 (Medium).JPGIMG_5233 (Medium).JPGIMG_5234 (Medium).JPGIMG_5235 (Medium).JPG Ooooh well this should be useful. Where does one get that Hikaru figure? Quote
Thom Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 It's like peaking into a special FX model shop... I went back to my /350 LCS, the Sybil Ludington, after my /1000 Yamato languished long enough. I put on bridge wings, And am detailing the boat bay. A spritz of gray in the AM showed there was still some cleaning up to be done. So on it goes. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.