Valkyrie Addict's Little Shop of Horrors

[Mommar]

Dunno why I didn't find my way back to this thread until now. Possibly because I didn't want to see something so awesome that I can't own myself. LOL

[Valkyrie addict]

Sorry guys, haven't had time to set everything up and take pictures. Real life has been taking most of my time, will do my best to get everything setup soon, there's an incoming 5 day holiday

beginning this weekend but I won't be at home so will try and take pictures before I leave.

Hope you weren't very fond of the baby blue I had on the "Lucky 7" scheme I changed it to a more accurate color to match, it's actually the SVF-13 squadron from the variable master file, I just call it "Lucky 7" because the tail-art is reminiscent of the real life 90th Fighter Squadron with a pair o dice Lucky 7 emblem.

[Mr March]

Excellent! Not much to it, but the colors go back to the simple brilliance of the original Valkyrie colors. I'm kinda ashamed that I never thought of this color scheme before. It's just right there in front of the nose, but never saw it until your custom. Amazing work!

[cool8or]

Great improvements and customizations! They looks great!

[Valkyrie addict]

Thank you. First post updated with link to finished pics.

[Valkyrie Magnus]

Incredible work addict! I like how you took pictures of the painting process.

[Valkyrie addict]

For a while now I've been bothered by the one weakness left on the v2 VF-1, the crotch that gets loose with time, specially if you add FP on battroid and end up with a hip bar that keeps popping out of place. I searched on the forum and found no fix for this.

I once attempted to fix this by adding some paint layer on the bar itself but it did not work. I then looked closely on were the weakness is and it turns out its not the bar itself but on the long T bar articulation part of the bar that connects and pops out of the hatch.

The Yammie plastic is a tad soft and with time the way it "clips" loosens causing the loose ass.

Here's a small "how to" on fixing this small issue.

Here's the problem

The fix is different for the old crotch and new crotch on the v2 VF-1

You must add a small dap of nail polish, cyanoacrylate (Super glue) or anything that will bond and create an extra layer.

The green circles represent the area where you will add the extra something for the old crotch and the red circles for the new crotch (since this piece is different in both versions)

For the new crotch, you must pop the piece out, it pops out easily with minor force, don't use any tool or you could scratch the plastic.

I've highlighted how you must add the extra layer for each. Again, if you have an old crotch, only do the green highlight and for the new crotch only do the red highlight.

Here's the small piece with extra layer of cyanoacrylate placed. You will have to add a bit of glue when putting this piece back together or the extra friction will make it pop out with the bar when transforming, don't worry about gluing this piece, the nose is glued in place and is impossible to dissemble so having this piece unglued serves no purpose.

Now you can enjoy your VF-1 to the fullest.

Edited April 5, 2014 by Valkyrie addict

[Ignacio Ocamica]

Thanks for the useful tip!

[Kurisama]

How in the hell have I missed this thread?!

Inspiring! Amazing! Impressive!!!

[spanner]

Really liking this paint scheme! Simple yet striking!

[william02]

Great job . What kind of paint you use?

Edited December 30, 2014 by william02

[chyll2]

Thanks guys. Updated the first post with the recovered threads links on some old WIP's.

Here's a quick how to on how I did some of my customs.

First off. The GPS-1S DYRL custom. It was a simple mask and paint of the missile tips, nothing more, but taking the missiles out had some disassembling to do since the missiles are in rails instead of just being housed individually like the old 1/48's. The process also helps to completely customize the armor if you wish.

To remove the forearm missiles, take the screws off and separate the pieces, the missiles will come off.

For the shoulder launcher, if you wish you can remove the bay door. Push the pin off and just remove the door.

This part a bit tricky, the rear part is glued and I have not found a way to take it off, so what you do is remove the only screw in there. The front part will be pliable, use your fingers or a tool to pry it apart just enough to pull the 3 missile rails, some force is necessary to snap them off.

If you wish to work on the rear thrusters, it's the same deal, remove the two screws but the front part is glued, so you must also pry apart slightly to take the thruster out.

For the legs is much simpler, just take the screws off and disassemble.

The lateral missiles come off just by pushing them out. You may also snap off the missiles housing, the bay doors can also be snapped out.

The rear missile, you have to disassemble to push the missile inside to come off, the bay door can be snapped out too.

If you're customizing the armor, for the front plate, if you wish to save some extra masking, the clear part can be push out after removing the back part that was screwed.

Just use a small pin the push in the circled area and the light will pop off.

For the chest piece, remove the screws also to disarm the piece.

Open the bay doors and push the missiles and everything will come apart. The missiles are glued, you can safely pull them apart, you don't need to glue them when reassembling, they will stay in place.

If you're customizing the bay doors, they're hold by a pin, pull the right bay door down and then the left bay door up to disassemble.

When reassembling, you will need to glue the canopy armor piece, this is the only piece that needs gluing.

The rest is just straighforward masking and painting, hope this helps anyone who wishes to customize their GBP-1S armor.

Thanks to the guide. It help me plan painting the armor. I think this is the last piece that you skipped, since it can be easily masked. Doing this will add stress and chips on plastic but you can pry the rear cover for the shoulder parts.

Of course doing this means instead of masking, you will have to clean up the damage parts.

edit:

I forgot to take pictures as well. The booster has a top cover that is glued. No Frying needed here since I was easily able to remove the top cover when I removed the booster. Upon removal of the cover, there will be the last screw needed to dis-assemble it.

Edited November 2, 2016 by chyll2

[edstuff]

this thread is awesome! You crazy sob